disco_al

congratulations, i remember my test, £18 wayyyy back in 92 now, gulp. thought i had failed, sailed through it though. that's those things on the BMW option list isn't it?

why thank you mr.farmer. i will get some pics up at the weekend

it was a swap for my XR4x4, the tax off the disco, and a cb radio so yes pretty cheap as i only paid £175 for the Sierra 2 years ago :) plus it has already been gas converted too

Well i decided to go ahead and get the V8 disco i was offered the other week :) So, i thought that whilst i await the end of the month to tax it (the previous owner kept the tax as part of the deal) i would carry out some repairs and maintenance. I did the N/S CV at the weekend (the cage had destroyed itself leaving no drive to the wheel) and decided to do the H/Gaskets at the same time, as there was quite a petrolly smell from the header tank, and the valley gasket was leaking. All came apart fine, heads cleaned up lovely and put it all back together (bit of a hiccup Monday night, as i discovered one hose clip was missing, so couldn't run her up to temp) and last night it ran!! Woohoo!!! Happy me!!! One slight problem though, i had put some of the exhaust manifold gaskets on the wrong way round on the LH bank, so had to take it back off to correct this, but the test drive showed nothing unusual, temp gauge sat bang in the middle, and the heater was nice and toasty. Next job is to remove the carpets, get the sponge out and treat the surface corrosion that is appearing in the footwells and boot floor area (neither are perforated as yet, and i want to keep it that way) with a flap wheel, mr.grinder and some rust treatment, zinc primer, and some nice tough top coat. Then it's a few small patches of welding, N/S inner wing needs a plate, along with the rear of the N/S sill where the wheel arch meets it, and a few plates on the sills.

you need to adjust the steering stops on the hubs, easy job. big bolt at the front edge of the hub, it also acts as one of the mounting bolts for the brake shield. put the steering on full lock, then move it back until there is 20mm (?) clearance between the tyre and the radius arm, then wind the lock stop out on the opposite side to the one that you have measured, ie if you measured the distance on the RH wheel, adjust the LH lock stop (someone will correct me if thats wrong)

i thought it was in Mad Max - Beyond Scrumpyville

that sounds like pinking, which is usually associated with dodgy ignition timing. have the cam/crank sensors checked as they can cause problems. possibly cambelt slipped? unlikely though i would think. oil starvation is the more likely culprit, compression test/leakdown test would be a good start, followed by whipping the sump off to check the big ends.

so how do these bullbar regs relate to fitting a 2nd hand one from say eblag? is that still allowed i wonder???

would that help balance out the V8's footprint?

why not link the supply feed to the sidelight circuit? surely you don't need it on ignition live, after all, who needs a map light during daylight hours?

i suppose they could be called siamese solid discs as there are 2 stuck together.......

not heard of vented solid discs before :)

i would have thought that drilled discs wouldn't be that much of a good idea for off road use as they carp could get stuck between the holes? drilling discs is a bit of a no no unless you know what you are doing due to the risk of cracking and destroying themselves. grooved discs may be a better idea as the grooves help to disperse heat as well as wipe the surface of the pads clean. someone else will probably know more about it, but that's my reasoning

i'm liking the maestro 4x4 van, looks really different..... the "CB40 Mule - Do not destroy wanted heritage museum" notice looks interesting, possible Gaydon display vehicle at some future point? anyone else notice something? in the first picture the maestro has a car parked next to it, but in the last two there is a landrover???

so there is a usse for them after all!!! and there is plenty of room in the back of a landy to put the batteries....

all vehicles from the early 80's (IIRC) have to have a rear fog light by law. the rear fog only works when the headlamps are switched on dipped beam, have you tried that? alternatively, run a fresh cable from the front to the back, earth the lamp and wire up through an illuminated switch that takes a live feed from the dip circuit. easy fix.

IIRC you are correct, the drain was removed on later models, as they were pre filled at the factory (allegedly for life)

everytime i use one it tells me strange things, last one told me to turn left - fair enough, except i was 40ft up in the air on a motorway flyover before that it couldn't find a house that had been there for 40 years, many people can't do without them, i prefer these days to get the postal address of where i am going, google map it for the close ups, and plan the rest on a good old road atlas, as for cameras, take note of the warning signs, local speed limits etc and be careful, if in doubt stick to 55 on open roads, 30 in towns... just my 2p worth, but if it helps.....

basically a friend was driving her td5 disco 2 auto along yesterday, when all power was suddenly lost. it happened quite suddenly, without any warning, and now it won't restart...... it will turn over, and it sounds like it's trying to fire, but it's as if there is not enough fuel getting through, anyone had any similar experiences (it's a 2000 model if its any help) cheers all

i'll agree with that comment, way over priced IMHO considering the amount of work required on it. as well as the £££'s required welding the floors etc back together, you would have possibly been looking at £120 + vat for a steering box, unless it was just seals.

cheers for that, going to have a look at it in the daylight first. tickover is nice and even, and sounds pretty quiet, mileage is 121k, so just run in i would think. took it for a run last night, and the oil light never even flickered once. there is a bit of oil leaking from the r/c gaskets i think (could be the valley gasket though, difficult to say in the dark) i will have a good look in the daylight before deciding once and for all, so will keep everyone posted. anything else to watch out for? rust is the obvious one, although at first glance itlooks quite solid, even the rear arches box is nice and tight as well, doesn't crunch into 2nd, no undue whines, difflock works fine too, as i think one of the cv's has gone, or possibly half shaft in the front axle (in unlocked mode, front prop spins when in gear at tickover, same symptoms mine had when i bought it) only other thing i can remember is that the front section of exhaust is blowing slightly, so it does sound a bit rough.

it's you over there!!! chassis is pretty solid on it (i towed it back for him), just that the tin worm has invaded the thinner panels, but mostly its surface rust under there.

nearest lpg station is about 4 miles away, after that there are several options around town.

the TDi would be sold (not enough room for 2 disco's) and the v8 used daily, weekly mileage is around the 200 mark (including commuting) so it should work out cheaper to run (especially as gas is only 50p/litre) as it has the twin torpedo tanks. it is also a fair bit cheaper on the insurance for some strange reason.

the cat or the neighbour :)