disco_al

just checked and there is a chassis break point for the switches - upto VA104805 and from there onwards.

have you tried re fitting the old switch, IIRC there are two types on the defender, depending on age? did you change the relay at the same time as the switch? may be worth checking the relay part number, as some of them are not interchangeable (as i found out with my disco, defender relay won't work in it)

is that as in smeeeegggheeeeeddd mode ? sounds like a short somewhere

i thought recon boxes were around the £110 mark? obviously surcharged items, but still a lot less than £270!!

i think it is supposed to do that, it's something to do with the warning system for the light circuit. my disco does the same, when a trailer is connected the trailer light on the dash flashes as well, even disconnected it gives one flash.

Here's mine (clean for a change too ) 200 Series 3.5 V8 EFi with LPG

as long as you have used a bore hone, then that should be enough. you need to be really careful using them though, as too aggressive and you will accidentally overbore the cylinder. the cross hatching is usually just witness marks from the hone anyway, and the roughness left from a fresh hone should be enough to provide a surface for the new rings to bed into. i have only ever used a bore hone before now, and never finished with wet n dry, never had any problems either

you have to watch eBlag, they will do that to you.....5p listings are exactly that, you list your item for 5p, but they will still sting you for final value fee's etc.....

can you use an over center catch? something like this http://www.trailerpartswarehouse.co.uk/tra...s_info_421.html then a pin with a padlock to secure?

it is illegal to manufacture or sell brand new A bars/bullbars now, however, there is nothing stopping you from buying one from eBay or the like and fitting it. got my spotlights off eBay, nice big 9" jobs for £32.99 delivered - bargain

someone taking "wax" & "oil" rather too literally IMHO. doesn't the proper stuff have anti rust properties in it too?

that is fantastic!!! might have an issue with approach/departure angles though.....

it looks like draught excluder strip that you can get from B & Q. got the same sort of thing along the bottom of our back door

just be careful when checking for leaks.....

maybe worth consulting a local exhaust specialist. we have one up here (worcester) that will custom make you an exhaust for about £300 in stainless steel, including fitting. you can even specify what you want it to do, eg side exit, twin tails, quad tails etc.... by the time you have bought the tube, cut it, measured it, bent it, welded it, re cut it, re welded it and finally fitted it it may work out cheaper to have one made....just a thought

was thinking of heading to Rhayader this weekend, will keep an eye out for you guys.

pollen filter on a D1 would be pointless anyway - it would get in through all the other "engineered ventilation holes" that were provided during manufacture

it's not technically a pollen filter as such, more of a large chunks of rubbish filter.

usually when scraping rust off......

not sure with the td5's but usually a change of filter, flush with some diesel treatment (forte or similar) and things should be fine. newer hdi type engines should not be run if even the smallest amount of petrol is in the system, as it kills the in tank pump, fuel lines and injectors - big repair bills.

should have started this post with "Dear Deirdre...." :)

no problem, i was concerned when i first got the v8, as my old 200tdi very rarely used to get as far as 1/4 on the gauge.

IIRC the plastic tower is the upper level of coolant? i am sure someone will correct me if i am wrong. check the fins in the rad as well, just in case they have got blocked with mud n associated cr*p, that would cause it to warm up more than usual.

most cooling systems will retain pressure, even when cold. you will usually get a little "hiss" when removing the cap, a bit like opening a semi-flat bottle of coke. if in doubt get the gas in the header tank tested for combustion gasses.

the gauge on mine sits just above half way (but then it does run on gas, so will be slightly hotter than normal) the only time i get coolant out of the bottle is if it is overfilled slightly, and that is usually as a result of the system pressurising as normal and forcing it out through the easiest point (thankfully not the engine ) where is the level in the tank when cold?