ThreePointFive

Having problems uploading pictures from mobile, but the bit I was referring to is the one in FFs last photo. I was operating under the impression that is the pressure regulator and the thing on the nearside rear of the plenum is the relief valve. Seems yet again I've made a tit of myself. Regardless, do I need that thing, because it's going to be a tad challenging to refit. Thanks for the help, anyway.

I found the page. Its not on the return line as I'd guessed from memory but that is the nut I removed about two years ago following my interpretation of that instruction and the only one I had anywhere near that location. There is no other way to connect the regulator so I'm a little concerned now. I'm sure there's something glaringly obvious as to how I've misinterpreted it, but at the moment I can't see what else it would be talking about.

Evening all, I've searched and found no definitive answer to this: do I need a Fuel Pressure Regulator? That is to say, the disc-looking chap that sits at the end of the fuel rail on the return line? All results I can find are talking (normally at cross purposes) about the Pressure Relief Valve, which is not the same thing. I was certain from Nige's manual that it says to cut off the nut that secures it to the rail (but in my version it doesn't actually explicitly say what the nut is for, though there is only one so not hard to work out). I was confident in this until I saw that Mr Fridge's build has it installed. Also noted on Fridge's build and something I like the idea of is the in-line filter on the return line to see quantity/quality of fuel going through but I need to find out where I stand on the regulator before I make any more changes to the fuel system.

I applied Westerns method, it worked but it was truly horrific to watch. It seems unavoidable for the paint and galv not to crack slightly, especially on the thinner metal of the gearbox tunnel. I'm going to apply a high zinc content primer and repaint but it won't have the same protection, and these things are all in the areas that seem to attract rust first. Thanks for the help all, at least it gave me the confidence to just keep doing it.

Hi Western, hadn't tried that, got to be worth a go. Thanks!

Hi Si, I'm re-using some from the old bulkhead which are bright orange but definitely genuine and some new genuine red ones, neither of which want to work. I could live with the paint flaking but the galv has chipped in places too. I suppose I'll just have to keep trying.

Trying to fit those lokut nuts into a new galvanised bulkhead. It seems the added material from the galv makes the fit extremely tight. I've tried filing to remove some but they're still ridiculously tight. I remember their removal was particularly barbaric, is there any other fitting method than welting on them with a hammer? The galv doesn't like that and nor does the metal. They will not press in with human levels of force. Any tips appreciated before I just file away the galv, which seems pointless to me.

I got mine from the loom that came with the engine, no idea if it's available as a separate part but eBay's got to be the place to try.

I don't know if it got posted up on here, but there was an ebay ad where a bald guy with a plastic AK47 was stood in front of a Disco with a glued-on H1 front. It was f**king hideous. There was no attempt to blend the two vehicles in, just cut some bits off the rear arches and paint it the same NATO sand colour. While I don't "get" the H2 look anyway, the execution on this one appears - from the photos - to be excellent. You can tell it's a D2 if you know your Discos, but not because it looks like a cut and shut. Furthermore, it actually looks like a number of clever additions to make it more useable have been made..... I'm praising a modified LR, what's going on??!

I've heard the same from my car, never had battery issues after 2 weeks of being sat. I assume it's activated by unlocking/the key, so even when not starting the vehicle it's "awake" for a potential start up like a few systems. Because I don't leave the vehicle with the bonnet open I can't say for sure if it's always on (as you have to unlock the car to open the bonnet to hear it).

Anyone looking at the sample size we have on here, and the number of complaints will know that this isn't just high volume production with an acceptable error rate, there are some consistent failings on the same parts time and again. There is the age old argument that "you only hear about the bad ones" but having seen so many posts on Britpart quality, it has an unacceptably high risk attached. Which is why I laugh when we see the obligatory "they all come from the same factory!11!1" comments. Just compare new Genuine with new Britpart, there are always differences - problem is people who defend Britpart never pay out for the Genuine part to fairly compare them to, supporting their own misbelief. I now always go Genuine or Bearmach. The number of times I was stiffed by Britpart starting out when I bought my car, placing big orders with Paddocks and on delivery finding the parts never had that screw, that bolt, etc which would always have broken removing the original part, causing yet more time stuck on the driveway. They always come with the bare minimum to still fit the description of the part you wanted. For the difference in price, receiving a Bearmach item with all nuts/bolts/connectors isn't even a question any more, just bolt it right on.

They're ALR5513 and 14 (OS & NS). This is in the pre-2007 Microcat catalogue, so should be before the SVX. I can't even remember if those were soft tops or roofless or what, I paid them such little attention. Arjan, it's not the bar that's the issue here, but the capping - the rear corners where there should be holes to mount the tub and roof sides together. There are holes in the right places at the front, but not the rear.

Having tried this in a forum where people would rather polish their Defenders than maintain them, I'll try here. As part of my conversion to bulkhead removal bar (tub), I bought genuine cappings, which I've galvanised, that are the bulkheadless type - they don't extend inwards at all. It also turns out they don't have the hole for the roof/sides to bolt down to on the rear corners. See pic: Obviously a vehicle without a bulkhead cannot be a truck cab or soft top of whatever else, as there would be a huge gap - how, then, is it that these don't have the mounting points for a roof? Does anyone have a car with the FACTORY removal bar that can take a picture of how the roof sides are attached to their capping? Non-factory conversions don't apply as there's a good chance the capping has just been chopped rather than being the specific type.

Double air horns on roof.... just needs a "your skid stops here" sticker and they're all set.

You can't be bothered to read my post, I can't be bothered to word out a full reply to yours. The relevant point: In short, anyone considering this tyre who will not be trailering their car, would be well advised to avoid it.

it is not a purely off-road tyre, it is a heavily off-road biased tyre which is legal for on-road use. I found the benefits of the tyre off road were far outweighed when using the car on road, which was about 50% of the time - far less than a lot of people with this tyre. I believe that on road handling is an important factor for anyone purchasing a tyre which will at any point be used on road, hence I innocently offered my opinion. Bump steer was the wrong term, a consequence of multi tasking at time of writing my post. Please forgive me. How about this gets back on topic?

I would hope people would be able to work out how fitting a glorified tractor tyre to their car might affect it. Fuel economy Acceleration Deceleration Turn-in Understeer Steering feel Low speed ride Bump steer Wet weather behavior More than any other point: Noise - the kind that would give a Wellington Bomber pilot flashbacks.

I'm pretty sure mine were low 33s/high 32s. Ruined the car in almost every perceptible way, too.

What almost everyone is ignoring is the (verbal) contract to keep the vehicle on the land. There has also been recent (in terms of the five-year total) contact with the owner a year ago, and presumably no new terms were discussed or agreed upon, meaning the owner is entitled to believe that agreement is still as valid as the first day it took effect. While we could hold a poll on here and ask what is "reasonable" time for the vehicle to be left, it's somewhat different in a civil claims court (as this is not criminal law) where you have to quantify that, not just state an opinion. Without knowing the ins and outs of the agreement it's impossible to say, but there is a high chance the owner will have some expectation of the vehicle being left A) securely and B) safely without incurring damage. All of the advice posted so far is based around some variation on the 'someone parked in front of my driveway' scenario. That is not Les' situation. Likewise the legal advice over moving vehicles like that is based around the assumption someone parked and walked away - with the keys. You wouldn't leave them in your car because it would get stolen, you'd have a hard time trying to argue you were in some way trying to aid the owner by leaving their car unlocked, with keys, after the inevitable happened. Les, seek legal advice, here is not the place.

PM sent!

Hi Mark £178.02 inc VAT is the only one for TVB000100 (TD5 manual) but it's Britpart... I doubt you'd buy BP so could be worth a lot more.

Good day all, I know everyone loves to see when a big heavy bit goes wrong. Here's a big heavy bit that nearly went very wrong.... I haven't seen one go like this before, it's totally gacked the yoke and it can't be manipulated by hand any more. How I got home on it, I don't know. Obviously it had to destroy the expensive end - the prop. LR don't sell the UJs separately (not that it would do any good to fit one into that yoke) and a new prop is £350. There are some cheaper on LR Direct, so I'll have to bite the bullet on this one. Scary thing is, I'd just done 400 miles on the motorway, there was no indication of any issue - in fact it was running as well as it ever had. Vehicle is a 2002 TD5 manual.

It's not quite as simple as above if you entered into an agreement, verbal or written, to look after the car after work was completed. If there was an agreed timescale that has been breached then it's simple enough, if no timescale was discussed then you will be having to prove what is a reasonable amount of time for theother party to move it, or expect you to hold the vehicle. You really should get legal advice on this because the terms you discussed on setting up the arrangement are key to how you can progress, they will override any DVLA/V5 etc rules.

Screwfix do a sprayer for about £15, that's what I bought. It's not meant for emulsion but it seemed to do the job with 1/4 water to thin. Just make sure the brick is clean and free of the above mentioned spider webs.

If the box is too small, it raises the question of what is the ideal size for the ecu box? I know plenty of people have mounted ecu and edis in the same one.