ThreePointFive

Very tempted, that money is about right for a good set of used seats and fixings not inc the panels, but I want the XS seats to match my fronts! The supplier on ebay is not trading at the moment, so no luck sourcing the panels on their own to supplement with the seats - I can get them elsewhere. Sorry to hijack your thread dbartle.

Hi guys, thanks for the replies and offers of pumps! Have asked Mr. Reckless, will donate a few quid to the forum as it only seems right.

Do you have any suppliers of the modified rear tub panels? I'm looking to do the same for mine by have found nothing.

Well that explains that then. I think the RR in-tank EFI is the way to go having weighed it up, for the sake of some ali strip and a longer tube.

Very helpful, thanks guys. I don't know why the search function seems to find nothing I want when I use it. What is the reason why the carb pump won't work with EFI? I had thought that as long as it pumps, it would supply the engine, which would use it?! I might look at pricing up the 50th anniversary pump instead, as it's a LR part and wouldn't require any mods. I expect it's hideously expensive, in which case the RR EFi pump is my next favourite option.

I'm just starting to get my MS build together (trying to work out what is missing from my engine has stalled it quite badly). I have been going through Microcat and I've noticed there are several fuel pumps for petrol Defenders, some specifically for EFI, some not I have the standard 3.5 carb in-tank pump, is this going to work with megasquirt or am I going to run into some issue with this? It's clearly defined as not being for EFI in the Catalogue, so any pointers would be a massive help. Yes, I did try the search function first.

I am said badger's arse owner. Don't be afraid to ask them questions before they do the job, make sure you are happy with their understanding of what you want. You can add a reinforcement bar between the mounting points for the chassis outriggers, this is to stop the length of the bulkhead distorting but it won't do anything to stop the larger flat surfaces front and rear from moving, this includes the visible edges around the bonnet and vent flaps. You could end up with a riddled surface so be prepared for working on it afterwards before painting. The sealant is what mostly made mine so utterly **** (sorry, only word that even covers it) - you need to get as much off as you can. The shot blasting barely touches it. It will melt and the galv wont stick where it was or where it moves. Also the way they hang it is something I suspect had a big impact - best to provide some way for them to do that - again, speak to them and ask their opinion. I left my bolts in place to keep the threads of the nuts clear, on reflection this was a waste of time as all of the bolts have sheared in place and need to be re-tapped anyway. I could post pictures of mine but it'll only bring back the emotions of ruining a mint bulkhead.

Too late. A bobtail is the way to make sure you ruin a classic vehicle.

Seem people don't care enough about where its come from to bid on it. They'll be on here next week complaining their car's been nicked.

Mine is quite noisy, incredibly notchey, and above all when in traffic just above idle it will kangaroo down the road like the clutch is being slammed on and off, I'm told this is down to mainshaft wear. Its not pleasant to drive, and it probably looks pretty stupid too. The box is not beyond use, so unless it seems like good value to swap I'll keep it until it finally dies, but the box is coming off the vehicle anyway and it would be nice to have a smoother drive, which the R380 reportedly has. I don't intend on running as a challenge truck, and the V8 isn't kicking out stupid power so I think it will cope.

Thanks for the replies, very helpful. I'll give ashcrofts a call but the more I look into it, the more I think it's not worth the hassle and expense. I hadn't appreciated that Ashcrofts would need the same type of box back for the core charge, I had assumed any LR box would be exchangeable.

So I've searched for the answer to this and not seen anything on this, or other forums which answers with enough certainty for me to part with £500. So I turn to the fine people of LR4x4 for an answer where others have failed. I would like to know the likely changes between fitting an R380 in place of an LT85 in a 1988 90 V8. To limit the variations which made finding an answer elsewhere so hard: Vehicle is fitted with an LT85 and is a factory V8 standard chassis. It has the correct tunnel and floor plates for an LT85. The gearbox and engine mounts cannot be moved - this is an absolute. The R380 will be Ashcroft supplied, and so will have no bell housing, do I need to obtain one or will the current one work? Will the complete clutch kit I bought for the LT fit the R380? I am going to have a wild guess that I will need a new tunnel and floor plates to fit, will this effect my bulkhead, or anything else? Please note I don't do the 'it will fit if you file/bend/cut/glue together with hope and wishful thinking' approach, I am talking about a conversion to (better than) factory standard. Information containing certainties and facts gratefully received!

Edited for accuracy: If you're going to do this, post up so we can all stay indoors. If there was enough material in the wheel to take some off, LR wouldn't have wasted money putting it in.

That will appeal to everyone who likes something to look "extreme" but be actually completely useless. You have to be making up for some serious shortcomings as an individual to want to drive that. Pretty much everything I dislike about Land Rover modifying. I expect every mid-life crisis on here will berate me, but hopefully they're too busy polishing the stainless tat they bolted to their Land Rovers. So that's a no from me.

When you say matched pairs, what does this mean? Would a TD5 gauge work with 1988 senders, for example? Not to highjack the thread, but would a TD5 rev counter work with a V8?

Thanks, very helpful! The fusebox on mine is a panel quite like the one under the normal cover on the bulkhead/transmission tunnel, also it sits between the two bulkhead grommets so would seem to me to be located there, would there be any identifier to see which type it is? I need to get the RAVE diagrams then, as I have the chassis loom on order as well to add so that will soon add to the fun. Is it safe to remove the redundant wiring for the TD5 bits, or would there be any issues with dependency with feeds etc? It's going to an 1988 V8 as per signature so it would only be added complication. I am tempted to strip all the wiring out just to leave the basics needed to make what I have work, which isn't all that much. Last question, are the connectors unique for each application or can they be confused? I have tried matching the dash switches and it seems that only some will fit certain connectors, which would make it a lot simpler if I can be 100% sure each connector is on the right switch.

Good day, I've bought a TD5 wiring loom which has had the ECU end of things cut off, leaving a thick but useless bundle of cables. This loom has the bulkhead grommets on, so I am assuming this is therefore the actual bulkhead loom itself? It apparently has everything in tact including a fusebox, so wiring for the central dash facia switches, heated seats, etc. I have a 2002MY dash that I am trying to make work, so with the above in consideration, I have a few questions. 1) Will the removal of the ECU and connectors for it have any bearing on being able to use the rest of the wiring for the accessories and switches? 2) will the wiring for the dials be included in this loom? 3) What, if anything, would I need to add in place of the ECU to make it work? 4) How do I identify what each connector is? I know very little about wiring and so I have tried a search but didn't come up with much, so any help much appreciated.

I doubt that. Even in my V8 I used to wonder how I'd used so little on a whole day, the answer being I had travelled all of 5 miles. It just seems better because you're using less fuel per hour but more per mile.

Thanks guys, you've answered a lot of questions I had, now collecting the new bits together.

Why would that be such a shock, what do you think Taxis do?

I appreciate the links Western, but the issue is more which of these parts are the same as for the earlier door, I want to buy only what I need, and reuse what I can from my current door.

Hi all, I have a new shape rear door and I need to get parts together to make it complete. Clearly the door interior handle, door card, glass and seal are different. What I need to know is are there any parts I can carry over from the old door? I understand there may be a new lock needed, what about the handle, door catch, door stay, seal to doorway on body, etc? I have a wiper motor that should fit, but no bracket, can these be bought separately?

What about a 27 year old 110 for more than the price of a new one? Spend all that money on a rebuild and ruin it with a scoop snorkel and budget roof lights.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LHD-1985-LAND-ROVER-110-STATION-WAGON-DEFENDER-NEW-CHALVANISED-CHASSIS-5-Door-/170874514227?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27c8ea2b33

May I be the first one to add Fire Extinguisher to the list of required items? Diesel isn't as impossible to have go up as some people would have you believe, especially messing about with it in cans with loose/makeshift piping.

So why ask?