robhybrid

anything is possible. but Td5 is fly by wire so an earlyer throttle pedal and cable may be required depending on 300tdi engine model? Is the td5 manual or auto as the auto speaks to the td5 ecu and vice versa. If manual the r380 bell housing may need to be changed to match 300tdi? There is a switch on the transfer box which changes the throttle mapping on the td5 this will be egnored on the 300 tdi. There will be other electrical glitches but nothing is impossible.

looks to me like some people need to get some thicker skin I think if you are willing to show off what you yave done you must be willing to take some crititism as well as complement. personally my advice would be buy a better quality second hand chassis to start with it will work out cheaper

I didnt realise you were working on one of my creations

looks like I will be there Sun am with John as my co driver see you there.

In the quest for more grip I have been playing with tyre pressures. I think this is what works for me unless I have to travel someone elses ruts in which case I would run them higher. What do you think? I know that side slopes and low pressures dont work and I have only locked the outer bead.

I've entered with Gwyn driving my truck by the look of it.

I run an 80 series as my road vehicle and towing vehicle. I/Gwyn replaced the original cv's and drive members with replacements from milner due to large amounts of wear in the outer splines approx 150,000 miles. I have since had one of these after market cv's break (cage and inner) after less than 10,000 mile thie vehicle had not done any serious off roading. I tried to get milner to offer me some compensation/future discount but to no avail. A contributing factor to the breakage I think in my case was that this was before I disconnected the low range diff lock switch, and I regularly used low range to manouver trailers into position. I am now running the old cv's with new drive members.

Still got loads to do "fixed" transmition components havent been tested yet. what time will the scruitineering start on Sat? I hope the ground is wet enough for the tyres to sink in for grip by now as those slopes are interesting if the ground is hard. Weather forcast is for wet all week-end, come on Neil do your magic for the weather it worked last year.

Transfer box swap and 2 diffs to change/re-build before next friday. I am not leaving things till last min honest

I cant remember but how different is the front timing cover on a td to a 200 tdi? If it is not that different are there some pictures of jeds truck engine bay somewhere on the forum my trucks section?

An exelent site with a combination of steep slopes boggy sections and deliberately dug out trial type sections capable of testing everyone. Wish I had entered now. The ground is prodominately clay that had suprisingly wet patches where everywhere else around seems to be drying rapidly. I can imagine needing to use winches just to get from one punch to the next on this site in the winter. Chalinger 4x4 did an exelent job of both making a fun and challenging event with some exelent prizes for both serious and not so serious competitors.

My truck knows them hills from all angles

I have seen both and would definately recomend your second sujestion going up to the chassis ass soonas possible from the diff allowing enough slack for axle movement. I have run mine up the (hockey stick) and do not recomend it if you intend on doing serious off road. (why have you bought an arb if not?) Brash rubish and tree stumps rub against the hockey sticks whilst off roading and crush the arb pipe, I have seen p clips totally mangeled, I have seen people try to get round this by welding pipe allong the length of the hockey stick but when the pipe gets clushed the arb pipe then becomes dificult to replace usually while you are stuck deap in mud. A tip given to me by Gwyn Lewis is to have a quick relase push in conector close to the diff and another close to the chassis, in the unlightly event that a stray branch being driven over plans to attack your arb hose it will simply pull apart your push fit connector without doing any further damage, this can then be very quickly pushed back together afterwards. These type of push fit conectors are quite often found used on aquarium air lines.

I hear neil is planing on having a look around over the weekend. I intend on coming up for a look on Sunday.

got a replacement co driver in for this one and possibly the next one. He has never done any chalenge events or seen any before I have set out 10 punches around my parents farm today and i am hoping he will come over tomorow for a intensive training course note I avoided saying crash course

Yes same pump for fluid.

I have twisted a shaft in the past so have a number of other challenge competitors that I know. I am hoping that this will be a solution.

Dave Lama is sorting me out some fittings so that in theory I dont have to modify the box at all. Although I am tempted to slightly open up the hole in the bottom of the bleed screw hole but I am temted to try it first.

Put my home made assister ram in place. what do you think? sorry pics are a bit dark. hopefully Dave Lama shall have sorted for me some fittings which mean I dont have to modify my steering box by tomorow afternoon.

I am welsh so £ comes into the equasion Have been looking on pirate and found this:- (Pirate) where and how to drill a rover box for hydro assist That internet thing can be handy it is just knowing how to find what you want

Had a look on pirate couldnt see any pictures of a tapped 4 bolt land rover box. Thing is I know I have seen it on the net somwhere but I cant find it now. Already had a go drilling and tapping a scrap 4 bolt box and didnt have any problem on clearance from inernal gubbins but I am a bit concerned about potentially wreking a 6 month old steering box. Another thing is an aluminium end cap going to be strong enough to hold the thread of a 1/4" bsp fitting without stripping when under hydraulic pressure?

I am contemplating having a go at making my own kit out of some second hand bits but where exactly do I tap into the power steering box? Any one done it? Got any pictures?

Truck in bits and every time I touch the damn thing I get covered in mud from Slindon. The more I look at it the more I see that needs doing. I booked this week off work to fix it and I am more than half way through the week and I have piles of bits all over the workshop floor and not an end in sight. I will be there though come hell or high water. see you all soon.

for the prop to come adrift me thinks something needs looking at somewhere. I was quite impressed you landed on your wheels though. Glad no one was hurt though. This looks like proper research and development to me, lol.

I asked Dave about pegging my 4.75 kam cr&p but was told that due to the thicker crown wheel that Kam use there is not enough room left in the housing to fit the slipper assembly. My reason for wanting to go pegged was that I have managed to stretch/bend the 11 bolts that hold the crownwheel to the ARB. I am not running stupid horsepower (slightly tweaked 2.8 izusu) and I am running std rr 10 spline shafts. If I had been running stronger shafts I think I would be looking at broken crownwheel bolts by now.