robhybrid

sorry for my silance but things have been/are a little hectic at the moment, I have though booked tomorrow (wed) off to change the wings on my truck. I hope to have a look at putting some frorm of tube frame in whilst I am at it but it does depend on how I get on with things in general. Tony are you going to be at Billing this Sat? I was hoping to be there for longer than just a day but I have let too many jobs get on top of me. Next week I am in scotland (prestwick), coming home thursday night and traveling to Tony's on Friday eve or possibly early Sat.

Hey I only manage to roll my own truck!! If You want safety I might let Will drive. I might need to let him know what the throttle pedal is first though

13mm sanner should see you right. lower the box slight ly to give you more access then. disconnect high low range by removing nut that holds the link rod. disconnect diff lock by removing nut from top of pivot on transfer box. 9/16" might be handy to remove the breather pipe save having to un thread it. not sure about the hand brake there are so many different types, yours (older rr) might even come out with the trandfer box.

That is the reason I dont enter specific speed events, my roll was nowhere near that dramatic, I doubt I was doing 5 mph

There has been some debate on the Grease/oil on brake pads issue. I have experimented with both over the last 3 awdc challenge events. As far as the brake efficiency is concerned I have tried both dry on rear, greased on front and I have not noticed any difference. Being able to put grease on certainly helps to retain the roller bearings during re assembly. Many industrial vehicle brakes run continuously immersed in oil. The only caution from personal experiance is that if you get too enthusiastic with the grease, when you lower your vehicle out under load over a long distance >75feet the brakes naturaly get very hot the grease turns to oil and if you stand next to your winch brake whilst spooling the cable back on the hot oil that kan flick up at you can burn! If I have cause to dismantle the rear winch I shall use Grease like I have with the front but not get carried away.

I dont intend on dropping out my roll only realy damaged the wings, I shall see how I get on with fixing it over the next 2 weeks between jobs. I have semi lined up Will Warn as my (brave ) co-driver but I will still need someone to team up with.

I have got harneses but have chose not to fit them as I like the idea of being able to get in and out possibly up to 50 times during one competition, if I was racing I would fit them.

here is one for the photo album I think it hurts more badly than it looks

Finally got home, I'll be a bit sore for a few weeks so the doctor tells me and I shall probably need at least the next couple of days off work. The bruise on my back was caused by me slewing round and hitting the home made arb switch/clock console in the middle of my dash.(note make sure no sharp objects in dash) Now to the more important things I recon that I rolled only one and a half times, So the truck sholud be back on the road in less than a month.needs a pair of front wing and an engine mount. It was a stupid mistake of me reversing over a slight brough when I was already on a side slope, when the front drivers wheel came up in the air I pressed the brakes rather than letting the truck reverse backwards. It is allways easy to say what I should have done afterwards though.

I have cut a lot of alloy with a jig saw ever and found that regular spraying with wd40 or similar helps loads in stopping the blade from cloging.

Been there done that when I made a 109 hybrid but in my case I ended up using a longer bulk head bolt and spacing the bulk head forward with 4 thick washers, the front wasnt an issue with a standard bumper on it. In my case things like this only hapen to me when I am doing it on my own vehicles, jobs for other people always seem to go a little smoother. Hope it looks better for you in the morning.

Cheers for the phone call Tony. I can Confirm that I will be there and I am looking for someone to team up with and I am looking for a Brave co driver I have no intentions of parking my vehicle on its side this time though

I hear a rumor that The winners of the Bulldog will be there Carl Frost and Doug frost, Kinda wishing that I had volunteered to set up now as ther is some serious competition entering this one by the looks of it.

Try footman James they have been reasonably helpfull (more so than Adrian flux) for me.

In what conditions did the synthetic line snap? Every time I have broken a rope I was doing something I shouldnt have been doing or I had been severely abusing the rope. Did it cause any injuries? I have seen synthetic and steel ropes "snap" and I am more than happy to pay extra and be able to walk away after standing too close to a synthetic rope snapping. I do use steel on the rear as it is only used occasionaly but at a winch challenge it is not unusuall for my winch monkey to have to man handle the front rope 30 or more times in 6 hours and I will continue to buy rope for competition(regular) use and wire for occasional use.

As per all the other comments this was possibly the best (winch challenge) site that I have as yet been to. I still managed to drive to quite a few punches though even if I when slightly past them and slid back down to them As for Breakages er um well 2 cv Joints my fault reversing up to a punch with lockers in when I could have easily drove down to it. Front winch rope twice, when you are in a hole putting ladders down first would have grately imploved my chance of getting grip. knots in rope wont pull through a snatch block by the way Badly damaged splines on one of my 1/2 shafts when the cv grenaded its self 1 pasenger wing mirror (damn trees) I think I need to make that quick release in the future. I was realy impressed with my auto box and I am so far convinced that it was an exellent decision to change to auto for off road use. Running my tyres at 10 psi worked exelently I think even though I had some odd looks when my vehicle was tied down to the trailer with "flat tyres".

Rope is far nicer on the hands than steel and when (in good condition) new it is incredibly strong. 9mm rope that is looked after is rated strong enough for the job. I have used/abused 9mm and 11mm (Amsteel blue and Dynema) and have now ordered 12mm If you belive you are lightly to abuse your rope (winch challenge etc) I highly recomend buying at least one if not 2 sizes larger than you require.

I thing Gwyn Lewis might have at least one in stock ( 01938 810 298 )

I'll be there, I intend on getting my truck through its mot this week too.

I belive the one to ask woud be lara he has fitted a switch to his to do the opposite, so I guess he would have better understanding of these than most people.

I didnt think I was dooing too bad in comparrison till it went in the water.

Havent you heard the latest man to copy is Simonr

Hey Will Not everyone wants to copy D4x4

What happened? How?

I use Footman James after having a slight difference of opinion with AF.