Ex Member

What are you trying to achieve?

Do I read that right 365 Euros per window?

These appear to be the same. https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/fuses-fuseboxes/20-way-blade-fuse-box-rear-entry.html?

https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/20-way-lucas-rists-bulkhead-blade-fuse-holder-black-kit-including-terminals.html

I "believe" that it just turns on a light on the dash telling you to turn off the choke when the engine warms up. That is what it did on a Series anyway.

Apparently it is temperature switch for the choke. Part 545010. also used in 2.25 engines.

The lower one is coolant temperature. I would guess the upper is a temperature switch for A/C.

Also, when you adjust, you need to follow the manual. You want the tyres off of the ground and the engine off. You need to be able to feel the drag from the adjustment. IMO, it is best to disconnect the drag link and first check that the steering box is centered. It is common for people to screw this up. It is also easier to then feel that you are not adding drag with the adjuster. Once that is done, then go through EVERYTHING else. - Check tie rod ends and panhard rod bushes for play. Put your hand across the joints as someone moves the steering back and forth. Your hand will feel the smallest movement. - Check steering shaft u-joints for play using the same method above. - Check and adjust hub bearings and swivel bearing preload. - Check that all steering box mounting bolts (and pitman arm nut) are tight. Go through everything first before deciding the steering box is the issue.

This is a 100% NO. The thermostat does not only open the valve to the radiator, it close the bypass port. Without a thermostat, coolant will not be forced through the rad.

But they are not towing from a hitch. These are with 5th wheels, which puts much of the trailer weight on the tow vehicle. It is a completely different subject similar to a tractor trailer.

It is not larger. It is positioned wrong. The wings are too short.

Maybe it is just me, but I would expect my custom hand built body to be perfect.

Is it just me or does nothing line up properly on the front end? The bonnet is too long and the light surrounds go above the curves.

It is there on the site. https://www.hardbody4x4.com/uploads/6/4/2/2/6422733/usd_-_land_rover_pricing_-_retail_-_june_2020.pdf #9002 Land Rover Series II 2 Door Body & WSF $6,670 #9110-4 Land Rover Defender 110 4 Door Body & WSF $7,578 #9033-A Defender Front Half Doors (pr.) $1,601 #9033-F Defender Rear Half Doors (pr.) $1,420 #9022 Series II Front Fenders (pr.) $1,624 #9023 Defender Front Fenders (pr.) $1,847 #9012 Defender Storage Tailgate $669 #9029 Series II Front Grille $218 #9030 Defender Front Grille $287

That pretty much takes away the only redeeming feature of a Land Rover body. That it is a meccano set that can be taken apart and changed as desired and as needed.

My suggestion is to go and measure what is there. The chances the propshaft has been changed in the last 32 years is quite high.

LT95 diff lock and reverse switches are separate and in very different locations. With an LT85, you have an LT230 transfer case. The diff lock switch is in the normal place for an LT230 on the left top of the front output housing. See the second picture in this thread.

If you "can do anything" then throw all that stock geometry in the garbage. At the lift height you are at, it gives poor geometry. You want 4 link in the front with much longer links. To me it is crazy limiting yourself to stock mount locations.

The roll calcs do not work as he is not using a triangulated 4 link, but a 3 link with panhard. You need to use the 3 link calculator to get the roll info.

Railing against you? I'm trying to close the off topic discussion on master kill switches which is confusing the whole issue of the decision of which side of a load to switch. It is a separate and different topic. A master kill switch contains three separate switches and really should be a topic for different thread is that is of interest.

First off, this whole thing has nothing to do with the subject of this thread.... I understand how the alternator is wired but it is these details that are not included in the discussion and then cause people to do things wrong. mmgemini is trying to tell people to put the disconnect on the positive wire and that will prevent the engine from continuing to run and not damage the alternator. That is completely wrong. You would also need to run the alternator output wire through the disconnect which is not standard wiring. Killing the engine with a disconnect is a different subject to this entire thread.

An alternator disconnect is a different subject. Disconnecting the positive wire from the battery has no different affect on the alternator's circuit than does disconnecting the negative wire.

What? A negative side switch kills everything. There is no difference in function. Most heavy equipment use isolation switches on the negative wire. Anyone that thinks a positive side disconnect is better/different than a negative side disconnect does not understand how an electrical circuit works.

Anyone that does not believe they have purposely copied the traditional Land Rover look has their head deeply buried in the sand.