Pepé le Pew

Not on the driver's side in a LHD.

Have you ever seen the size of my feet? Heel-toeing is not a option in a serie 2a. Just blip the throttle with the clutch out when double cluthing on the downshift. This will speed up the layshaft and then with the clutch in it will smoothly slip into gear. You only have to take your foot off the brake for a fraction of a second. Dropping the roadspeed down as far as possible before downshifting has two advantages. You don't have to speed up the layshaft that much and you have more time to take your foot off the brake. Cheers, Eric.

If the carrier is that loose in the housing there is a big chance that the aluminium of the housing has worn away to much by the spinning carrier. It should be a tight fit. Cheers, Eric

I agree, thats why i never did that. The level in the main box sit about 6cm higher than the level in the transfer box. so there will be excess oil in the transfer box all the time which is definitely going to come out through the seals. Cheers, Eric.

I had the wright off road mats in a '86 ex dutch marines 110 with a 2,5TD and it certainly made a difference. Both in noise level and in heat radiated from tunnel and bulkhead in summer. After fitting i could talk to the passenger without shouting. I thought it was worth the money and it looks good. If you also put some sound proofing in the loadbay and the hardtop it gets even better. The only downside is when you have to take the floor,tunnel and seatbase out. You have to take the matting out first and that is a bit of a pain because there are 2 big sections. 1 for the floor and 1 for the seatbase. I thought about getting them for my 2a but desided not to. Its a petrol and on top of that a pick-up so less noise and in sommer i use a bikinitop or no top which makes it even quieter. Cheers, Eric.

Take the gearbox out. Remove transferbox. Remove bellhousing.Take top off and remove selector forks. Remove layshaft. Tap mainshaft out of the bearing(a bit of heat helps). Remove big circlip. Tap bearing carrier out of casing(warm up casing a bit). Remove circlip for bearing. Tap bearing out. Glue new bearing in carrier. Fit circlip. Glue carrier in casing. Fit big circlip. Put main-and layshaft back in. Fit bellhousing and transferbox. But if you plan to do all that you might as well overhaul the whole gearbox. If the gearbox is still doing fine i would just settle for a new seal and accept a little oil migration and check the level in the box every month at least and don't forget to drain the exxess oil out of the transferbox from time to time. That how i do it anyway. I have another box on the workbench that i'm overhauling and hopefully is going to be oiltight afterwards and then i'll put it on the shelf as a spare box. Some people fit a hose between the levelplugs of gearbox and transferbox so the migrated oil can run back to the main box. Cheers, Eric

My bet is that the lever for the clutch bearing has worn through at the pivot. Happens a lot. How does the pedal feel? Most of the time when this happens the pedal becomes rock solid all the way up and sometimes it drops to the floor. An other possibility might be that the centre had broken out of the clutchplate Cheers, Eric

If you connect them to intake manifold then you are correct,it will give a leaner mixture. But if you connect them to intake of the carb its no problem. Cheers, Eric.

If the stabilizer is at fault the fuel gauge should have the same symptoms as the temp gauge. Like said before the stabilizer is just a relais that switches on and of to give a crude 10V You can't measure this 10V with a digital voltmeter because the stabilizer switches relatively slow and the digital meter will try to follow that and give a very erratic reading. It works better with a analog meter. Seeing that the temp gauge goes up when you put the lights on i also put my money on a bad earth. Cheers, Eric.

I disagree ajh. The mechanical diaphragm lift pumps are not able to build up pressure. They only build up a small pressure difference between the inlet and the outlet .Approx 3-5psi. If you block the outlet the pressure doesn't get any higher. I run my 2a with 2,25 petrol on LPG 99% of the time and the outlet of the lift pump is blocked solid by the shut-off valve when running on LPG. Haven't torn a diaphragm yet. Cheers, Eric.

Don't use dishwasher tablets or anything of the like. I know a guy who ruined his engine using that. That stuff starts to foam like mad and your waterpump isn't made to pump air,just water. On top of that. Everywhere where there is foam in the waterjacket the metal of the cilinderblock and head can't dissipate their heat to the coolant resulting in een engine that overheats. Just get a bottle off radiator flush. They're not expensive and meant for that purpose. Cheers, Eric.

It can be done with the box fitted in the car but it is a bit fiddly and like team Idris says you might need a good shower after to get the oil out of your hair. Changing the seal might not cure the problem altogether though. The oil also migrates from the gearbox to the transfer case between the steel carrier for the main bearing and the aluminium housing of the gearbox. The bearing carrier has to be glued in the gearbox housing with bearing glue to prefent it from turning in the housing but also to seal it. Cheers, Eric.

If the spigot bush and primairy pinion are a good thight fit as they should be and they are covered in oil from the leaking rear crank seal mixed with dust from the clutchplate then this can seal the tiny gap between spigot bush and pinion creating a vacuum when you try to pull the pinion out of the bush. We've all heard of the "Magdeburg Hemipheres"? A vacuum is hard to beat. Cheers Eric.

Yes that is correct Phil. I pressume that Norm is still running the serie 2a crash box and not a fully synchronised serie 3 LT76 or any other gearbox. And a 4 or 6 cilinder Landrover engine. Cheers, Eric.

The 9,5" clutch was fitted on the US export models and an optional fitment on the european models. The 2a can also have the 9" clutch as far as i know. If you have the 3 dowels in your flywheel then you need the 9,5" clutch. There are different clutch covers and plates for the diesel and petrol but the problem is that the 9,5" petrol cover and plate are no longer available. So you will have to use the diesel parts if you have a petrol engine. In the serie 3 they use the same cover and plate for the diesel and petrol and with the introduction of the 90/110 they switched back to different clutches for the diesel and petrol models. Now i wonder why they did that? Maby using the same clutch on both engines wasn't such a good idea? For your 2a you'll need clutch cover 571228 and plate 8510290(FRC2297 which is the serie 3 plate) Cheers, Eric

255x85x16 BFG mud MK2 and parabolic springs. No issue with broken halfshafts yet but i use a very light right foot when offroading and use the winch a lot to get over obstacles and through crossaxle situations. I know that if i put the hammer down they are gonna snap like twigs. The only halfshaft i broke on this truck was with 235's.

I know the low range gear is supposed to be very loose on the shaft,but it is only loose when low range is engaged. When in high range the low range gear sits snug on the dogteeth on the high range gear so it won't rattle when in high range. Brake drum is clean and the shoes are not binding.Can't feel anything wrong with the bearings as it is. Its not a lot off work to get T-box out and leave the main box in place. I better check all the bearings and the preload and especially i want to check the spigot bush that sits in the front output shaft. Its just a shame i didn't pull it apart when i had it out the first time. Cheers, Eric.

Another reason is that there were not a lot 90/110 Defenders build with a 200tdi. Soon after they put it in the Defender they introduced the 300tdi. There were a lot off disco 1 build with the 200tdi engine though so that engine is more available then the defender engine. The availability(or lack of) and because it is an easier fit make the Defender version more expensive. Cheers, Eric.

Hi all, I went along with my original plan and took the synchrorings of the old unit and only used the centre hub. The genuine part i received did look genuine and came in the right box but i found cracks in the 3rd gear ring on all 3 mounting points to the pillars so that one went straight back to LRseries. I put the gearbox back in the car yesterday and had had a testrun without the props fitted. Went throuh all the gears and when i rev it up the whole box starts shaking. When i put the T-box in neutral there is no shaking at all. next i fitted the rear prop and put in the seatbase lose so i had something to sit on and had a little testdrive. The shifting is perfect without the synchro rings. With double clutching it slides in 3rd and 4th very smooth,both on up and downshift. The shaking of the box is less evident while driving but when i hit exactly 80Km/h there is a lot of noise coming from T-box. Just below the 80 and just above and there is no problem. I concentrated on the main box because i thought the problem was in there and left the T-box as it was. I might have been wrong all along and vibrations from the T-box were the cause. I'll take the T-box off again and open that up. Cheers, Eric

Does Your 110 have the fuel sedimenter on the rear chassis rail next to the fueltank? A lot of people forget to clean that one so check that. If its full with muck and water the fuel won't get through. If it only is reluctant to start at the first start of the day and fine for the rest of day then my bet is on the spill pipes from the injectors and air is getting in making the fuel run back overnight. Cheers, Eric.

All the Loctite products in the 6xx series are bearing seating compounds Nick. The threadlocks are the 2xx series. I had a look at a couple of tech sheets and Loctite 648 might be the better choice. Higher and longer temperature resistance and better oil resistance. Cheers, Eric.

Thanks for the feedback Nick. The splines inside the centre hub and on the mainshaft are in perfect condition and with no play at all so the hub is not moving/tilting in relation to the mainshaft.. The synchrorings are definitely running skewed in relation to the inner hub when they are pressed against the cones on 3rd or the primairy pinion because the inside of the synchrorings is a little bit eccentric. It crossed my mind that it might be that the mainshaft is starting to wobble a little bit under power because of the big bearing tilting a bit in its carrier. This could explain why the ticking noise was worse in 4th then in 3rd. In 4th the synchro unit is at the end of the mainshaft and its weight will have more effect on the mainshaft then when it is in 3rd. But i think this would put a lot of strain on the needle roller bearing inside the primairy pinion, but the inside of the pinion as well as the bearing itself and the end of the mainshaft look perfect with no evidence of wear or uneven load. The main bearing of the primairy pinion has no play at all so that is not moving in relation to the mainshaft. I will certainly glue the bearing in its carrier and the carrier in the housing just to make sure. Would Loctite 603 do the job or is that to strong considering any dismanteling in the future? I might as well put in a new bearing when i'm at it. After some searching i found that the SKF number for that bearing should be 6307-C3. Can anyone confirm that because that one has metric dimensions and i wonder if Landrover used metric bearings in the days of the serie 2a. Now the wait is for the new,and hopefully genuine,synchro to compare it to the old one. I'll clean everything in the mean time and put a new rear cranckshaft seal in the engine. Cheers, Eric

The cones are not worn. The serrations on the teeth are in good shape. They just don't show up in the pictures. I made dose with my i-phone. I don't have a good digital camera. The marks on the pillars are definitely made by the centre hub and i blame that on the weak springs. When 3rd or 4th is engaged the brass cones flop around a bit and the pillars rattle against the disc on the centre hub. When the synchro is in neutral de centre hub is in line with the recesses in the pillars so then there is more room for it to flop around before it hits the pillars. Cheers, Eric.

You've done this before Phil? Ever tried to run the gearbox without the 3/4 synchrorings? I guess drilling of the riveted heads first might make it a bit easier to punch them out. Cheers, Eric.

I don't think this is eccentric wear Jeremy. The serrations are still intact on the thinner teeth. If it was wear the serration would be gon one that side. What do you mean by "The change was truly apalling"? The stronger spring made shifting worse? I have no problems with the shifting of is box. Very smooth. But i just was annoyed with that that ticking sound in 3rd and 4th. Cheers, Eric.