Pepé le Pew

I did some more searching and BAU2326 is no the right part. Yours is a Santana pump and the part number for the repair kit is 194086 which is like hens teeth. https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=1fe9650498c14ec1&page=view&resid=1FE9650498C14EC1!1629&parId=1FE9650498C14EC1!1616&app=WordPdf&wacqt=undefined If you want to keep this pump your only option is to get one of the above kits and cut the diaphragms in the right shape. http://www.clublandrovertt.org/index.php?topic=67656.0 The easier option is to install an electric pump. Eric

I found this cross interchange list. http://www.kakapart.com/oem/partscrossinterchange/rover-bau2326.html The Pierburg 40527250 and the Peugeot 459911 are a lot cheaper. http://www.oscaro.com/diaphragme-pompe-a-vide-pierburg-4-05272-50-0-586678-1008-p http://www.jcparts.eu/brakes/brake-mounting-set/459911-p Eric

PRC3359 is intermotor 50070 and PRC3505 is intermotor 5000. Both are M22x1,5. http://smpe.elcome.co.uk/ecat/ViewPart.asp?p=50070&cid=24381928&pt=10&i=4775 http://smpe.elcome.co.uk/ecat/ViewPart.asp?p=50000&cid=24380602&pt=10&i=4711 Eric.

This should help. http://solidebolide.nl/downloads/Repair%20Operation%20Manual%20Series%202a.pdf http://solidebolide.nl/downloads/Repair%20Manual%20EN.pdf Eric.

I allways chisel them out. Thats very easy because they ar so brittle. Sometimes they can be realy thigt and they won't hydraulic out. like Maverik i am a bit reluctant to put to much force on the crankshaft in that direction. Before fitting i put them in engine oil for a day or so. Bronze is a bit porous and will soak it up. I never put grease in the bush because if you then want to mate the gearbox up with the engine there is a good chance that the pinion won't go in because the trapped air can't get out. Eric

On a leafsprung vehicle it might depending were the shackles are. On a Landrover with the shackles on the back of the springs the axles moves backwards a bit when compressing so the rear propshaft might extend. On a coilsprung vehicle the propshaft will allways compress when compressing the springs i think. Eric.

And what about the serie Landrovers? LT76 TBox and diffs all use 540870(Hexagon) or 235592(slotted) Sump 3MB 4 cilinder 536577 Sump 5MB 4 cilinder 599552 (might be the same thread size. Not sure) V8 and 200tdi 603659 By the way. The FTC6145 you mentioned should be FRC6145 Eric

And according to Maxxis 10" http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-3-105-trepador-radial-m8060 Eric

According to BFG 8.5"-11" Eric.

I agree. I have had some very bad quality Bearmach parts. Camshaft sprockets with chipped teeth and de slot for the key machined out of centre. I took the first one back to my supplier and the second one had the same problem. Brake shoes that don't fit at all. Oval brake drums. Poor quality bearings. They are not as bad as Britpart yet but my impression is that they are getting worse the last couple of years. Genuine is the way to go. My serie 2a does 100Km each day and since i only use genuine parts it has been prety much flawless for the last 2 years. Eric

The slave is self adjusting but if you fitted a new friction plate the piston is still set at the old situation. It usually takes a couple of drives for the piston to adjust to the new situation. Eric

To be honest i only used it on steel rims Rob. But a couple of rim protectors are easy to make or very cheap to buy. Tyrepliers themselves say its no problem to use it with alloys. Eric.

I have one of these in the back of the 88". https://www.boab.biz/acatalog/copy_of_TYRE_REPAIR_KITS-1.html Works very well and doesn't take up much space. I must say that i paid less than what it is advertised for on the Boab site. I think it was in the region of 150 euro's complete with 2 tyre levers and the canvas bag. Like this but without the tyre repair stuff. https://www.boab.biz/acatalog/TYRE_REPAIR_PRODUCTS-1.html Eric.

When idling stationairy with the clutch out and gearbox in neutral both shafts in the gearbox are turning. If you then disengage the clutch the shafts wont stop immediately but will keep on turning for a while so if you then try to engage a non synchronised gear(1st 2nd or reverse) it will crunch. If you put it in 3rd or 4th first(the synchronised gears) it will stop the shafts turning and then ,without taking your foot of the clutch, put it in 1st 2nd or reverse and it wont crunch. Serie 2/2a and serie 3 boxes are easily identified by the bellhousing. The partly synchronised boxes have a hole in the right hand side of de bellhousing with a large rubber grommet where the shaft for the clutch release bearing passes trough. The slave cilinder is on a bracket on the outside of the bellhousing. On serie 3 boxes the slave cilinder is on the left hand side of the bellhousing and fitted directly to it. Eric.

Does this help? http://www.heystee-automotive.com/parts/springs/shocktab.htm Eric

A colleaque of mine uses a couple of batteries from his cordles power tools to jumpstart his van. It does shorten the life of the batteries considerably though. Eric.

The charge light should be 2,2 Watts. The current through the charge light energises the field in the alternator so it can start up. Different wattage bulb and the alternator will not start up correct If the light in the switch is a LED it won't work. Use the normal charge light in the serie 3 dash and i think your problem will be solved. Eric

Which brand shoes did you get? The immitation ones from Bearmach or Britpart are no good at all. Mintex shoes are reasonable but stil need some filing. Eric

I don't know if he still works there, but Eric Pagan used to be the man at Land Rover to contact for that kind of thing. Mr. Eric Pagan, Project eng., Traceability, Land Rover, Block 19 Solihull, West Midlands, B29-8NW, Lode Lane, England. http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.Chassis.tracing.html Eric.

Try France, According to http://www.landrover.fr/vehicles/defender/index.html they sell the utility wagon. Eric.

An adjustable pot resistor is not the way to go. If you adjust it to read correct at say 80 C the gauge will not be correct at other parts of the scale. When the coolant gets hotter the resistance of the sender drops and when the gauge is in the red the resistance is very low. If you have an adjustable pot resistor in the wire it will not show on the gauge when it overheats. Eric.

If I'm not mistaken the TD5 has a spacer between the outer race of the inner bearing and the outer race of the outer bearing. You torque up the single nut to a specified torque and stake it. There are different spacers ranging from 14,9mm to 15,5mm to get the preload correct. Now if you want to switch back to the old 2 nuts and lockplate setup it might be wise to discard the spacer as well and set the preload the old fashioned way. Eric.

I don't like Britpart and I don't like Bearmach because of the bad quality of their parts. But a couple of years ago I ordered a brand new Santana serie 3 LHD steering box in the UK for my Landrover serie 2a. The Santana box was cheaper then a Landrover box and when it arrived it was wrapped in Britpart Labelled wrapping. When complaining to the supplier I was told it was new old stock and definitely a genuine article. It's been doing great since I put it in the truck with no play or leaking yet. And this 2a is my daily drive and does 100Km every day on B roads with lots of turns. I also have some new old stock genuine LT76 bearings supplied by Britpart. So it is true. Sometimes they have decent stuff...... But it will take some searching. Eric.

You will need EP90 or 80W90 gear oil with API-GL4 specs. The common gear oils nowadays are GL5 specs and it is said that the phosphor content in GL5 oil is aggressive on the brass parts. An engineer,which I hold in high regard, ones told me that the phosphor only starts to be aggressive on brass when the oil reaches 120 degrees C. Now when the gearbox oil in your LT76 reaches 120 C then there definitely is something wrong with the box. Even on hot days the oil will only get to 70 C. As GL4 gear oils are still readily available you best be on the save side and use that. Cheers, Eric.