Mark90

A jack under the swivel when you undo the top swivel pin bolts stops you loosing any/too much oil, however for easy servicing just notch the brake pipe bracket that bolts on to the swivel pin. Sounds like Ralph has notched the swivel pin side of the bracket. I notch the hole where the flexi/hard pipe bulkhead fitting goes, then you just lossen the bulkhead fitting nut and the caliper swings out of the way without repeatedly bending the hard pipes. Or go flexi direct to the caliper, just watch for wheel/tyre rub and clearance. Banjo fitting on caliper end normally gives a better pipe run.

Well it seems that the 12.9's we have just got are the way to go. Will see how we get on with those and some loctite. Maybe get some Schnorr washers for quick fix in the field when we don't have time for the loctite to go off. Did you have to look that up? At the weekend I said I thought it was 60ish nm of the top of my head, really must get out more

Yep, those ones. As they are so prone to coming loose I was hoping someone had found a fix. That might be the answer then. If stretching leads to them coming loose then the 12.9's shouldn't suffer from this so easily. Steve, do you do them up to standard torque or go a bit tighter with the stronger bolt? Any loctite or locking washers or do you find they stay put without? Good call. I will have to look at how easy this is with socket caps without weakening too much, don't want the cap to split open when tightening/loosening then, not a problem with the standard hex head bolts.

Had a few problems at the weekend with the hub bolts coming loose on my mates racer. Only on one hub, but once the problem started it got worse, as is often the case Not enough time between laps for thread lock to go off, damaged bolts (looked ok but two sheared when being done up before reaching correct torque), damaged threads in hub from running with loose bolts, etc. Replacing the bolts with new 8.8 bolts and split ring type spring washers was just about enough to get us through the rest of the event but the bolts needed tightening after each lap. Couldn't do them up too tight due to damaged threads in the (soft cheese) hub. The hubs are now going to be helicoiled and fitted with new 12.9 socket cap bolts. I've not been to impressed with split ring locking washers in this application. Loctite is ok in the garage when you've cleaned the hub etc but not ideal in the field when the bolt holes may be oily and you don't have time to allow the loctite to go off. The Nord washers mentioned in this thread I don't feel are best suited to this application due to frequency of removing the bolts, it is a landrover after all So I'm looking for suggestions on what people have found best for stopping these bolts coming undone. What works for you?

Was getting around £13 each last year for vogues. I guess an 18" hurricane should be a bit more. Think the price of scrap has gone up bit since then too.

That's about the same as I aim for. Reckon it's probably around 100-150kg nose weight. Really must measure it sometime, can't be ar$ed doing the sums with spring rates and levers etc.

The method I use is 4 straps one round front axle pulling down and forwards, one round rear axle pulling down and backwards then one each end on the body (usually attached to tow points or bumpers) pulling down to compress the suspension. With enough compression there is no worry about the straps coming loose or snatching. You really don't want you load swaying and bobbing about. A car I would tow with just wheel strapping, but not a 4x4 especially a lifted challenge truck. I use the above method even when towing my mates racer which is low and with very little bounce/roll in the suspension. I would substitute the axle staps for wheel straps with chokers but would still strap the body down. On the back of a flatbed is a little different, load stability is more important when it's on a trailer and snaking is a possibility. Believe me you don't want that happening, I ruined a perfectly good seat and set of pants

Sheffield is well located for the eastern peak district lanes, but I'd be even more worried about secure parking.

On mine I welded (well I didn't actually weld it, I got a grown up to do it) some flat on top of the ring and then ground it down till it was a snug fit in the hitch. No clunk, and even without the stays it will not rotate.

Only post 1998 vehicles need type approved tow bars. If you had an accident and it was shown that a poorly constructed tow hitch contributed then I guess you could be at fault just that same as with any modification.

Jim, what you need is something like this. Could be yours for a small consideration. You'd just need to make up some new stays.

Not used one so can't actually give it a personal recommendation but the Sony Ericsson C702 might be worth a look, IP54 and built in GPS. Having stuck exclusively to Nokia for many years my last phone was a Sony Ericsson and it's coming up to 2 years use and abuse and still going strong having never missed a beat. I shall be sticking with Sony Ericsson I think, however I'm not keen on 'joysticks' and that's the only thing that puts me off the C702.

Date/location/wife/etc depending I might be available to keep a seat warm.

Given there was so little clearance it's probably just as well Kat was driving Bit harsh Mo, Jim's not that bad

Thanks chaps, I'll look at getting some ordered

Jase, where did you get them from, anywhere local? I could have a problem with an exhaust mount bolt on my trail bike that I keep loosing due to it vibrating loose. Don't think loctite likes the heat.

Waypoint Workbench

Without getting into the nitty gritty of the Road Traffic Act 1988 here is an example of were the insurance company is still liable for third party cover even when outside the terms of the contract.... That comes from this solicitors website. Ok this isn't talking about modified vehicles, but it does show that use outside of the insurance agreement does not necessarily absolve the insurer of all third party liability. This is also seperate to the MIB fund which covers cases where the insurer isn't liable.

I don't think that's quite true. As I understand it you'd not be able to claim for your un-taxed car but the third party could claim off your insurance as I don't believe the insurance company are able to wriggle out of the 3rd party/RTA cover so easily. That's just my understanding, but I'm no legal expert

I believe it has a moisture sensor. It has a 'normal' which is supposed to maintain an ideal humidity for in a house. It has a 'max' setting which I runs 24/7. Or the dial can be set anywhere from max through to low via normal. On 'normal' in my garage it seems to run most (if not all) the time as it's not very well sealed and has a bit of air flow so I'm essenitally trying to dry the whole world But in the back of my van it kicks in and out as required when on 'normal'.

Standard two bolt tow hitches are 90mm centres so you're not far out with 3 1/2"

G R Fasteners in Avonmouth have never failed with any of my nut/bolt requirements. Not sure about mail order, but if they have what you want I can collect (I almost pass them every day) and post if required.

I got a cheap metric only 1/2" set from Machine Mart, but they don't seem to have it listed anymore. It was IIRC a Clarke set and it's in a blue plastic case. Not had any problems with them using the same cheap battery rattle gun or my mains powered one either. Only drawback was they only went up to 26mm so had to buy a 27mm socket seperately.

Are you making something that sits purely on top of the chassis rail or somthing that goes over like a saddle? I would have throught the later would be easier than trying to match the exact angle on top of the chassis rail. This is the mount on my old 90.

Looks very much like the one I have and about what I paid (from a differnt supplier who I forget). Had it about 8 months now and it works fine so far. Been used in garage and also in camper van/caravan. In the garage it will easily fill the 'bucket' in 24 hours if the weather is slightly damp. In nice weather it can take a couple of days to fill up. Biggest problem is having to keep emptying it.