Mark90

And buy all accounts the TerraLux LED converions beat even the genuine Maglite ones. I'll update in a few days when mines arrive and I've had chance to test it out.

There's two main reasons for fitting fuses, overload protection (of wire and appliance) and short protection (ok technically that overloads the wire too). For split charge and/or starting 320amp cable will be fine from basic overload point of view. From a shorting point of view it depends on how well you protect the cable from chaffing and possible shorting and how paranoid you are about it. In my camper I have fitted 80A 'mega' fuses at either end of the split charge cable as close to the batteries as practical. Chassis for earth return will be fine as long as you make decent connections.

Thanks, always nice to see some nice scenery in these laning pics Mo, feel free to pass on my phone number

Any more pics of the blonde?

The X-eng split charge withstands winching, which can be similar current to starter but longer durations. Only half the current draw is going through the relay. If you where worried you could always upgrade to a 200A relay for 20-30 quid.

Just run one cable and put the split charge relay across the cut-off switch terminals. Either protect the cable well so avoid the possibility of shorting or use TWO big fuses, one as close to each battery as possible. As both ends of the cable are +ve both need protecting.

I'd be suprised if it had spark plugs

Camera tripod fixing screw, 1/4" BSW.

Sounds just like when the flex plate on my 200 tdi auto was buggered. Rattles at idle but the force of driving jams the bits together so no rattle when driving. Mine was inspected through the little inpection hole at the bottom looking for radial cracks, but on full engine removal found it has split into two concentric rings, drive only provided by the two bits jamming together.

And not forgetting Varidamp

In an ideal world you wouldn't need one In the real world as near to battery as possibly is a good idea.

Here is an interesting point regarding choosing an helmet most suited to the task/risk.... Taken from here.

A cheap BMX/skateboard lid can be had for not a lot of money, they are mostly open ear. And if you have to buy an MSA spec helmet in the future you haven't 'wasted' too much money.

Have them make it into a bling little box, then you can keep your pastie warm in it.

I don't believe Chris has ever gone that long without an accident Have driven it in a few vehicles but did pick up a bit of damage the first time I drove it (in Alf so a while back), knocked the plastic hub cap off and split it, had to put a cable tie round it to stop the wheel getting covered in oil.

Maybe it would be helpful (and courteous) in these situations if the last post in the locked thread was from the mod responsible for locking it giving an explanation. Although i suppose that would bring it back to the front page and hence to more peoples attention.

If only it was ever that simple

Soggy fags?

FYI

Well that depends on what standards event organisers choose to implement. So far (as I'm aware) the Tay is the only UK event to date that requires a helemet, and they have chosen to go down the MSA Blue book route, ie the same specs as required for comp safari, which some might argue is overkill for a challenge event. Will be interesting to see if the MSA insist on blue book spec helmets for their new challenge permits. If not then even events run under MSA permit could implement their own minimum standard of helmet, all the helmets sold for the above mentioned sports do have to meet certain standards.

If I was wearing one through choice I'd go for something light weight like what is used for canoeing/climbing/skate boarding/etc. Something a little more robust but still light weight would be a motorbike trials helmet. If it was compulsary then obviously you'd have to choose a helmet that meets the approriate specs laid down in the regs. If they are asking for 'Type A' or similar spec helmets then you'd need to look at the usual motorsports suppliers such as Demon Tweeks.

CTEK is another option in the inteligent charger market. I have a XS 7000 and use it on every thing from motorbikes, cars, and 200Ahr leisure batteries. Seems to do the job.

They are called 'valve pullers', suprisingly. Stick that in google and you'll get a few links. Most motorbike places will sell them, especially the off road oriented ones. Linky

Doesn't sound like other vehicles where present.