DrRob

Cheers for the comments. I can live with stop-start as it's only for hobby use. Primarily a bit of waxoyl spraying with a schultz type gun and canisters and perhaps an airline..... I feel a purchase coming on...M Mart is beckoning

Chaps MM are doing a well cheap compressor: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/air-compressor1-5hp-24-litre-oil-free Have done some searches on here and I reckon she'll be good for the odd bit of waxoyl spraying etc. Your thoughts? Cheers Rob

Got a new fibreglass one from Nationwide Trim in Redditch for the Classic. Miles better than the old board stuff. Fititng soon....

Can someone please post 2 or 3 links to buying guides on here....might go for a late Td4 F1 next year when daily driver needs replacing.....I fancy a td4 auto of highish spec. Just after an idiot's guide on what to look out for and how to test etc.... Cheers

BSF - ah, takes me back to 1952 80" restoration days

Bodge it

My welding is still in its infancy stage but so long as it holds then fozsug's PU seam sealant will be my friend

Thought as much! Just wanted a sense check. Cheers....!

The channel is to let the door seal recess into when the door is closed - perhaps my description is a bit pants...sorry.

The area where the lower rear outer wheel arch meets the outer sill has rotted away both sides. Can I get away with welding in some sheet (folded to roughly follow original contours in a "Z" fashion) instead of using the repair panels that can be bought (http://www.paddockspares.com/mwc4841-wheel-arch-repair-section-lh.html) as the rest of the arch is rot free. I thought about chopping the bottom end of a repair panel off and letting that in but they are £35 each. The only thing I can see that may be an issue is the repair panel, like original, has a channel folded in it for the door rubber but I can't see that being a huge issue if I use flat plate.... I hope I have described the issue clearly??? Hopefully someone has been down this road already Cheers Rob

Richard Perhaps you can PM those of us interested with your mobile / email......? Is there an option for evening work i.e. 1700 to 1930? Clubs = Hampshire and Berkshire Land Rover Owners Club, Solent and District LRC, Shire LR Club, Wessex Hillrunners. Rob

Richard Lots of LR/RR owners round here may well want to use your facility - me included I would also approach the main local LR clubs - HBLRO, Solent LRC, Shire LRC and see if they can put an ad in their newsletters... I might be in touch soon for an oil change.. Rob

From photo 2 it looks like you may also have some rot where the wheelarches meet the inner wing vertical faces. Mine did. Peel back carpets to reveal state of rust. I've bought a welder to self teach and save £££

Britpart ones fit like a glove and are nice and snug. Come with headrest and armrest covers. Come in grey, green or blue. I recommend them 100%

AL Services in Poole (ebay and own website) do a complete kit of 2 x Z side rails and 3 x replacement cross members (thicker and stronger than original) and will sit flat under the floor - they need to be welded to the Z sections. If you want exact replacement ones then I am led to believe Disco ones are same (http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/body-chassis-body-chassis-parts-c-10_86_150.html?page=2&sort=3a) I am in the middle of the exact same job - replacing steel with Ali version. I used a lot of previous threads on here for tips - worth searching out or I can post links to all........ Rob

Can you explain a bit clearer on what you mean by "1 diameter longer than joint it needs to make.......?". Got a 6mm diameter hole through 2 sheets of 2mm I need to rivet (so 4mm in total)....Ta Rob

Power file. Awesome for getting into nooks and crannies for cleaning back prior to welding and general filing of stuff Argos had them 50% less than Machine Mart. I love mine

Cheers. At least I can then test by substitution. Will chase supplier Tues am.... Ta

Sorry, 5% Co2/Argon........ Surely the contents guage should be working - its a brand new Hobbyweld 5 cylinder!?!? I suspect reg is dodgy.... Tony - cheers for the offer but can't come down - MrsRob is ill....see you soon though.

New to this welding lark and need some advice from an old hand...... Just got a new Argon twin guage reg and small hose adaptor (from Welders Warehouse) for my Clarke 151TE so I can ditch the disposable bottles. Got an Argon bottle from Hobbyweld. What's the procedure for set up and operation of the system? The join between the 2 hoses seems to leak when I open the bottle valve plus no reading on left hand contents one. Right flow works. Please help me Rob

Folks, what size are the pipe end fittings for the pipe in question i.e. sedimentor outlet and fuel pump inlet......I assume they are a BSP of some description....? Thanks in advance Rob....

Cheer! Found that earlier. Need to check if ESR2994 (300Tdi) will be OK for 200Tdi - bends wise not fittings. Existing one has some specific snakelike bending patterns near sedimentor....will call Britcar...

'93 200Tdi Classic: Got a small leak from the metal piping/union exit from the sedimentor bowl (i.e.engine side)...what and where can I use to fix it? It's the orginal short metal section with the union to the sedimentor.....would rather a solution that doesn't involve replacing the whole pipe.... I was thinking to cut the plastic pipe and attach a short lenth of tubing with a suitable union.............? Any help much appreciated......

See if there is anything here that helps: http://www.remotekey.co.uk/cars/range-rover/classic-1989/

Keep it original to retain and eventually increase its value