Coz Discos leak more through the rear door, sunroofs and mostly the Alpine roof windows....
To renew a Classic floor simply "fuse" 2 new Disco floors together - currently being done on my mate's Classic
I've got an ali one behind the shed ready and waiting to be pop rivetted in
You could try bunging the standard viscous cooling fan on and disable the pacets and see if that helps.
As always, only do one tweak at a time to eliminate...
Most 80s RR were made of "better" steel than later ones and are less prone to rot. YRM do most of the repair panels now so go for it! As the others say, go over it carefully in full sunlight and a bright torch and "prodder"...
Good luck. Post some piccies if you get it. Offer him £250 to take it away....he can only say no...
PS My 200Tdi Classic out runs a lot of tired old V8s
I used S-50 spray cans on my RR 2 years ago.
Filled each sill with a tin and the inside of the rear crossmember plus other area - headlight boxes etc, doors, pillars etc....
Easy to apply. Make sure tins are warm first - keep in the house.
I don't have air compressors etc so was very impressed with this product.
My link
They are really useful at trapping mud, crud and water and rotting your new sills
Motor looks better without too - a visual lift
Mine were removed within 10mins of ownership....
Cheers Les!I'll keep an eye on it etc.
I just thought it was a but strange but I guess it makes sense as my rad is new and I keep it clear of any mud etc.
I just don't want to "hurt" it for the sake of a thermostat etc.
As title says, bottom hose and tank coolant stay ambient temperature - not even warm to touch after a run; top hose gets hot; temp guage shows normal.
Only work carried out recently is new cambelt kit and new coolant...
Has got a 2year old new rad and a <12month new viscous fan coupling.
Any thoughts? Normal?
Thermostat or water pump? Both?
Air lock?
Any "procedure" I can follow to isolate problem?
Or you can jubilee clip the spring to the top mount - triallers been doing this for 20years plus....
Most disclocation cones make an awful racket off road as they "work" - your choice...
Personally I wouldn't bother with those big wheels - you'll put more strain on wheel bearing, steering and drive train.
Want to drive it later this week for views etc. From my research (Trailwise, Wilts CC online etc) it looks for the most part open and not subject to TRO etc.
Couple of questions for a "local" in the know:
1) Is it open all the way from Salisbury westwards to Fovant?
2) Is it OK for a lone vehicle?
3) Is it fairly even surface all the way?
PM me is best to avoid broadcast etc.
Cheers
Rob
Had this twice now.....both times I had lost wheel balance weights....
So, start with tyre pressures / mud lumps on inside of rim and then get all 4 balanced then move onto wheel bearings and bushes etc....
Brick Kiln Farm in Hampshire is always "open". It did shut for a while but think its open again.
Anyhow, call Ken on 01420 563212 - farmer and owner.
Great site. Don't go alone.
It should be an LT77S which was a refinement of the LT77 coupled to a Borg Warner Transfer i.e. no centre diff lock but a viscous coupling. Much quieter and smoother then a diff lock transfer you get in a Defender or Disco of that age...
Ashcrofts are the people to ask about gearboxes etc