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How about using a Dremmel? This link shows how a guy installed a Mantec Snorkel on his Disco 2. Quite an awkward cut to make. Might give you a few ideas...

A quick search in the Discovery forum revealed THIS THREAD and others. You can't use the word CB, though, cos it's too short. Try 'aerial mount' in the search box and Robert is your fathers brother... As Dan has said, the best place is the middle of the bonnet with a mag mount, but the a RR bonnet is steel so it sticks. Gutter mounts get wiped out the moment you brush past something and the roof mount isn't an option for me as it's ali... HTH Adrian

The problematic bit is finding the correct bellhousing. I have had my eye out for one for quite a while and they don't come up very often. The last one I saw on ebay went for over £150 which is a lot of money!! As for gearboxes, I would think that a 4speed one is better ZFHP4 I think is the model number. Have a quick look on the Ashcroft website for all the different versions available. I would think that a 3speed one would mean a very noisy vehicle with a 200tdi bolted to the front of it...

Fair enough! As I said, I'm no expert, but it raised a question in my head.

Take the cover off of the remote plug (on the winch) and wire a switch in parallel using a bit of 3-core flex.... It's not high current or voltage, so shoult be ok with some reasonably small stuff. I used some with rubberised sleeving (if that's the right words) so it's easy to run around all the tight corners into the das of the RR. At leats, I think that's what I did. A grown-up will come along in a minute, I'm sure!!

While we're putting fires out - I'm no expert on the melting temperatures of electrical cable, but isn't running the power cable over the top of the rad tempting fate?? Sounds like I'm really picking fault, but knowing what size spark will come out of the cable when the bare wire hits metal, I wouldn't take the chance... Agai, nice little set-up, just a couple of niggly little bits that I would be worried about. But, as I said, I'M NO EXPERT ON ELECTRICS....* * it's taken a while, but I think that's the understatement of the year!!! Edited cos I can't splel!!!

That looks like a very smart little set-up and I wouldn't want to dampen the flames on your bonfire, but won't the winch rope/wire foul the number plate /bumper cut-out when the rope is at an angle higher than horizontal?? Out of interest... Where did you mount the split charge? Ta Adrian

Just went to have a nose around their website and all I got was an error message telling me that "Internet Explorer has had to close unexpectedly..." Sounds fishy to me!!

Have a look-see in this thread. Not sure if they have gone, but must be worth a pm...

Both Mark and I have one of these from Thunderpole. Easy to use, relatively cheap and the only problem I've had was a knackered hand mic. Turned out to be a broken wire. They were happy to replace it after I sent the broken one back. Thunderpole offer a good quick service and are very helpful on the end of the phone, too.

Waving the keys at the and then putting them on the roof is another one that they seem to acknowledge!! You learn these things when doing lots of deliveries round the Kentish countryside. And to top it off, once they have reversed, jump out of the cab and utilise the facilities that the front n/s wheelarch has to offer!! That really gets them steaming at the collar!!

Coil! I had exactly the same problem the day before leaving for Seven Sisters in September. It ran fine the weekend before, but when I came to start loading it up, it wouldn't go at all. Fuel, air and spark were all there, just the spark wasn't big enough. New coil and suddenly there was a bolt of lightning at each plug and she roared into life! Took me about 8 hours of fiddling and then the RAC man with the right diagnostic tools was called!!!! He had all sorts of lights that plugged in all over the place and you could see the spark getting smaller and smaller at every step of it's journey to the plug.

I believe the PAS reservoir can be repositioned using a Disco mount. This puts if closer to the rad and further in to the engine bay. As for the rest, I'm watching for answers to this one....

Another amusing sight is the numpties that drive around with their fog lights on and only their side lights on above..... Apparently, it makes you 'hard' and more attractive to the opposite sex, especially when it's done in a stupidly modified 900cc Fiat Punto with an ironing board strapped across the back of the roof!!!!

Price-wise it's probably a good idea to wait and go shopping at the shows next year. I managed to pick up an absoulutely cracking deal on my EP9 with rope and ali hawse instead of wire and fairlead. The supplier also dropped the price further when I asked them to remove the unrated recovery equipment. On that note, it is also worth noting that there will be expense involved in purchasing properly rated shackles, snatch blocks and tree strops. Most winch package deals come with equipment that is not stamped/rated. The rated ones aren't expensive, but when you consider that you may be dangling off of one, it's worth the money. I have managed to do my whole set-up as shown in Mark's earlier post for less than £600. Winch, rope, hawse, shackles (4.75t), strops, snatch block and sail were all new. Bumper was s/h from another forumeer. Moving the oil cooler added another chunk of money, but the new pipes purchesed are somewhat over-engineered for the purpose. It's easier to buy all flexis than mess around with fixed pipes. Tech archive link to oil cooler relocation thread

3 options: 1 - Must have been a different Mark!!!! 2 - It was as we were sinking the first cup of coffee of the day or 3 - I was looking the other way at that moment! Had a good day. First time we've really used my truck in anger for a whole day. Only damage was a n/s side repeater, believe it or not, which I thought was pretty good going for Mark and I!!! Cheers to the organisers for a good range of punches. Even a couple of the 'simple' ones managed to get us thinking... And there were the enevitable insane punches that would have meant standing the car on it's back bumper to get at them. Still on the learning curve and loving it!!

I've had a look on the TinleyTech website and it's very useful. However, what I would like to know is if any of the doughnut (for want of a better description) shaped tanks can be mounted vertically in the position that the spare wheel would normally fit in a RR? My spare is too big, so lies flat in the back. The space that it would have originally occupied is crying out to be filled up!!! I've seen a couple of tanks that are made with the relevant bracketry to replace the fuel tank, however, I'd like to retain this just in case... The bracketry looks like it could be adapted to mount against the side of the vehicle so that there are no alterations made to the tank itself. None of the sites I've looked at mention anything about orientation of the tanks (other than assuming they lie flat), so I'm wondering if it's possible or whether it's a big no-no??? As for the bobtail - apparently the bathroom is more important !!!!

The second picture in the post that Ralph has referenced looks to be the same as yours... (I think the picture is from a supplier, but I hope you don't mind me re posting it if it belongs to anyone!!) Sounds like the bottom hinge mounts over the existing body mounting on the rear crossmember, so you have to drill 2 new holes either side into the crossmember... **Exception statement:- I don't know a lot about defenders, so I might be talking cobblers. But, it looks like what the picture shows and what the instructions tell us...

I should have made my idea clearer, but I was thinking of putting the sill tanks in the back and constructing a box over them to enable me to store my spares/equipment... I have done a quick bit of research, but nothing jumped at me and I've only got about 10 mins before I've got to go out for the evening. That site definitely didn't come up!! I'm sure my version of Google is different from others!!!

Evening all!! I'm seriously looking to reduce the running cost of the V8, so I'm trying to work out how I can fit gas tanks in my RR without losing too much load space. I run the car without rear seats, so have more space than most, but still don't want to waste it!! How big are the large tanks that most kits come with and mount in the boot? Also, how big are the sill tanks that can be mounted under the car? Are there any other options? I know there are spare wheel shaped tanks for most cars, but am unsure whether I would get away with mounting one against the rear quarter panel (possibly one on each side with a link pipe to increase range)!!! Ideally I would like a tank that fits in the rear footwell, but I guess that there are limitations on shape due to the pressues involved??? Can anyone offer any advice, or am I better talking to a supplier of such items?? Ta muchly... Adrian

AFAIK by drilling out all of the spot welds!!! Not pretty, takes a while and won't look pretty when it goes back on. Drop Mark a pm and he'll be able to tell you exactly where all the spot welds are, cos he has a memory for things like that!! I know there are some around the door shut panel and a load around the window (beneath the rubber) but that's about as far as my memory takes me!!

How about one of these mounted through the back wall of the garage* with a spreader plate on either side?? That way you can mount it at a reasonable height so you are only pulling the fixing in a horizontal direction... This also means that there isn't a lump of metal sticking out of the floor for you to fall over when the car isn't in the garage *Assuming the back wall of the garage is accessible and does not form the wall to the living room!!

Have you checked that the spark from the coil is big enough? I had an ignition problem before the last Shires 7 Sisters do and ended up replacing the coil. I had fuel, air and spark all at the pistons, but the spark wasn't big enough! Turns out that when people say that you beed a F BIG spark for a Rover V8, they mean that the coil needs to be throwing out a bolt of lightning!! Mght work.......

Fair enough - thanks, David.... I never claim to be knowledgable about things like the differences between screws and bolts as there are far better educated people than I. Just thought it might be an idea... I had a feeling that the info in the tools thread was wrong (having read the other one), and as MicroCat said it, it must be right...........right?!?!? Hahaha!!

As there is already a pinned topic about specific tools for specific jobs, I wonder if one might be appropriate for those awkward threads and nuts and bolts that Land Rover throw in to keep us on our toes. In particular (and as the first input to the thread) I was looking for the thread/bolt size for the bolts that hold the steering damper on the bottom of the diff nose so that I can fit a pair of QT style diff guards. After a while searching, I found THIS THREAD which gave the correct information and an exploded parts diagram. Thread is 3/8BSF (British Standard Fine) Bolt is 5/8" long Apparently, there is the possibility of drilling and tapping with an M10 thread, but then you have to remember to do it to a new diff if you bust one. Cheers Ralph (Western) and Tony (White90) for the info in the original post. Just a thought...