Scotts90

It has grommets as it passes through the alloy panel of the seat box, you just can't see them because the cables pass through the wright-off-road matting.?

They wrote it off? Good buy for someone, looks like a tidy 110 pre-stripping.

It's mounted to the front of the battery box into the footwell... It's a 3002 HD switch. Rated at 500a continuous, 700a for 5min, 1150a for 1min and 2750a for 5sec. I'm imagining things will melt/catch fire long before the switch gives up! I used a 92mm holesaw for the cutout. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/35/Manual_Battery_Switches/HD-Series It was the highest continuous rated I could find at the time.

I have two starter batteries with an X-charge relay, fitted with a blue sea systems isolator/selector to give the option of combining the batteries if need be.

Maybe you misunderstood, I did actually mean a full bulkhead loom, LR don't sell "patch" looms as it were. You can add electric windows and central locking, the windows on a defender are a pretty basic design with no relays or fancy controllers...purely wires and the window switches. A Google search or forum search will bring up the appropriate diagrams or how-tos. The door looms for e/w and c/l are easily purchased (about £30-£40 new per side). I think PaulMc on here can supply the multiplugs for a factory looking connection or have a look on eBay. There are a few on here that have upgraded to later spec td5 looms (myself included), I opted for XS spec to give all the toys and basically a plug-and-play fitment. However if you can read a wiring diagram adding the circuits shouldn't be too hard, the td5 electrical wiring diagram shows how the c/l is wired and even gives the pin location on the alarm ecu. Looking at the 300tdi diagram it would appear central locking wasn't an option as its not shown on the 97 diagrams. Most parts guys are only interested on what a part search will tell them....

Just to confirm...Les is referring to the small plastic C shaped clip that holds the thrust bearing slipper pads in place whilst Boydie is talking about the clip that retains the slave cylinder actuator rod to the clutch fork. Did you replace the clutch fork at the rebuild?

Do you already have the alarm system (10as unit)? The basic version is missing some circuitry to allow the remote locking actuation, there's a chap advertises on eBay that can retrofit the relays (or supply them for DIY fitment). Wiring wise it's probably easier to buy door looms, if you do a search on the forum I'm sure there's a pin out diagram for the 10as which will allow you to patch in a loom. You could always cheat a bit and source a bulkhead loom that's pre wired for central locking.

Very true, the challenge spec front ended and tray backed defenders can sometimes look further from the original mould than any urban truck can ever do....and more than likely are in the same financial ballpark.

"gay icon"? Really? Drug dealer or pimp? To sum up if you like to accessorise and have pride in your vehicles' appearance then you must be of the above persuasion or professions? It's a pretty close minded view of what is purported to be a friendly community (Landrover/defender ownership that is ..not commenting on this forum). As for being more of a target, a well kept tidy defender (accessories or not) will be less likely to be pulled up our way than one covered in muck and battle scars. I didn't think there would be such anti-defender feelings on here. Is it so hard to appreciate the work and effort that goes into some of these trucks regardless of whether it appeals to your taste? Some of the engine conversions carried out are a true work of art but the need for 4-500hp in a defender bewilders me...but kudos to those who can and do such things. As mentioned previously it'd be a boring place if we all had factory brochure standard trucks. I have a fast ornament in the shed that is nigh on unusable, dawdling about with the tdi is of more everyday use and appeal to me these days...and I know this may grate but my 90 looks cooler than my VXR any day. Oh no I have a VXR too...must get back in that closet!

I just can't see why there's an issue with people wishing to improve the "quality" of their defenders, be it for on road manners or off. Most rebuilds include numerous sound deadening applications, gearing alterations for better cruising manners (they were never designed for motorways), engine upgrades for more power and driveability but if someone buys an ICON, Khan, Bespoke, Twisted etc etc then are they poseurs or bolt on babies? Anyone reading this thread with such a vehicle that maybe looking for some technical info won't feel very welcome as it would appear they'd be slated for admitting to owning the aforementioned models. There are numerous very successful 4x4 outfitters out there that will quite happily relieve anyone of their hard earned for everything from chassis swaps to accessory fitment...so in essence if you've outsourced your rebuild that makes it the epitome of a bolt on baby? It is one of the most personally customisable vehicles available at the moment....the limiting factors are your imagination and the depth of your pockets.

Looking at the old 200 tdi wiring diagram (91-94) showed no fuses at all in the glow plug circuit...?

I have td5 wiring looms fitted to my 200tdi which required a timer relay to be retrofitted, the relay feed and subsequent power out to the glow plugs are by 6mm2 wiring which is protected by a factory fit 100a fuse

The trailer icon on the dash should illuminate when a trailer/light board is connected...there is no wire back to the dash. The internal setup of the relay operates the trailer icon when a greater load than the standard 4x21w +2x5w setup is detected. My Led indicators came with an adjustable relay which had to be tweaked once the trailer was connected to allow the indicators on the trailer to operate correctly and flash the trailer icon.

Hmmm, I don't know whether I'm in the flash barstewards camp or not...does rebuilding the entire vehicle myself earn me some brownie points in the hardcore crew? I have a farm, stay up single track/never treated roads, so my 90 tows and treks across fields regularly. I doubt it'll ever be headlight deep in a bomb hole just for the hell of it. I agree that some of the bling suppliers have taken things too far in some areas in my opinion...but if someone likes and can afford it then why the hell not? Everyone on here has their own take on what makes a great defender and not all will use their vehicle in the same way. If most of the urban trucks are pampered then they'll make great buys further down the line.

If it's a td5 era then it should have a large orange plug for the towing electrics tucked up on the rear, this allows plug and play of a factory towing socket loom.

Number plate light will be 5 or 10w at least, there are no sidelights in the standard headlight just the halogen h4 bulb. As for work lights and spots, use the formula below to work out the current. "Standard" spotlights tend to be 55w but you can get up to 160w bulbs. Divide your power(W) by 12 (voltage) to give your current (A). Have a look at the later (300tdi/td5) factory wiring diagrams and they'll give you the CSA in mm2 of the appropriate circuits. If your increasing load above the standard ratings then increase the gauge of the wire accordingly

My carling switches with multiplugs and the illumination daisy chained

Minted. Are those 110s running standard axles?

Nice work

Seen many a veedub with front mount spare wheel.Does look daft IMO on the defender although it'd be good for gently nudging the odd obstacle out the way

I've got the switch wires fed through 10mm corrugated conduit and I've got my 70mm2 winch wiring inside 16mm. Got the switches wired up and the in cab winch control wires fed down to the bumper (again in conduit).

Yes, the oval grommets behind the fuse panel seem the best option. Cheers

I need to run feed/return wires from my battery box up to the dash. The options are into the footwell and run along the transmission tunnel then up behind the fuse box, or along the chassis leg, up the bulkhead and in with the main wiring loom grommets? Thoughts welcome

Air in the fluid aside, are these ABS equipped?

I made two brackets that come off the hawse mounts then the plate is mounted to them