Scotts90

I don't think they were ever going to mess with the format too much, it's not exactly high-brow tv, but I found it entertaining nonetheless.

This is the one I have https://www.amazon.co.uk/ORIGINAL-KOKEN-LANDROVER-DEFENDER-PROPSHAFT/dp/B012W1LI82 Works fine with a 9/16" or a 14mm on the other end

I've got Superpro in mine

This was my td5 one in mid-strip, I initially cut the centre loom hole then welded it back up after deciding to go the td5 loom route. Shows clearly what's there (and what's not)

The td5 doesn't have the ones protruding from the top of the footwell, it has the ones inside the bell housing recess and another, flatter one welded above the drivers footwell to take the td5 expansion bottle. Those extra tabs must be for the 300 as Lewis already said.

Same tabs are present on my td5 bulkhead which clear everything on my 200tdi with LT77. The tabs actually hold the td5 wiring looms in place on mine

My td5 one doesn't leak, or create pressure within the tank either.

Towed for many thousands with a td5 D2 with nothing apart from general wear and tear/service items. The in laws ran a 300tdi D1 commercial for years towing an Ifor cattle float, the only failure of note was a sheared pulley on the water pump that LR came good for (faulty batch iirc). Different vehicle but almost the same powerplants you asked about.

I used a heat gun and blowtorch to melt/burn any sealer that I couldn't scrape out. Tried to be as thorough as possible as I wanted it to last...the whole point of the exercise. I did this prior to sending it to the blasters, the fact that I had "opened" the seams allowed them to get right in and clear the small bits I'd left or couldn't scrape out. I used a long bolt out through the mounts to attach the brace, this meant the only missed area was the contact between the brace and mount which being a thick steel tube didn't bother me much. Acid dipping is fine if following up with a galvanising process but I wouldn't go for chemical stripping/acid dipping otherwise. It's nigh on impossible to fully cleanse or neutralise the solution in the seams and will begin to rot the seams from within. There's numerous horror stories on classic restoration sites relating to this as I found whilst researching this exact topic.

Lol, the disclaimers are class!

That's how I braced mine, you can see the bow in the once straight angle...but they may have lifted it in the middle and bent it. You can also see the slight distortion on the lower footwells. Personally very little twisted and worth it for the extra protection it gives.

Is the g-valve plumbed correctly? Front port feeds to rear and side port goes to master cylinder front port...or that's the way mine is plumbed and works fine with the disc rear axle.

I braced the lower mounts and welded an eye on each end of the brace so they could use these for lifting/lowering without touching the bulkhead. The floor pans buckled slightly but nothing that didn't straighten when fitted. I drilled extra holes to allow for entry /drainage when being dipped. The biggest PITA was drilling and tapping the rivnuts and clearing the brackets for the vent hinges

It may cost more to "paint" or treat than it would to get it dipped. My bulkhead cost £60 to get galvanised, However I recently spent over. £120 on zinga (cold galv) paint to refurb Er Indoors' horse trailer!

I got a tdci one, came with the full kit (wheel chocks etc) for about £35 off eBay. Had to use it once when out and about and did the job fine.

Heater motor is different, transmission tunnel is different, you'll need to adapt and alter wiring/clocks to suit. They can be made to fit, like most things it depends on how handy and knowledgeable you are! Doing a search will bring up examples of people who have done such a conversion, most use a Puma bulkhead and are working around the older technology without having to fabricate items so that the new type dash merely fits.

No, just a simple inline switch. Power from fuse box feeds to the switch, press the pedal and the circuit supplies power to the stop lamps. No relay in the circuit.

At least the Range Rovers still have exactly that written on their bonnets. Personally the large DISCOVERY scripts look too tacky and I'm not too keen on the DEFENDER badging either. As mentioned above if it had been badged up in full LR livery no one apart from the ultra observant would have noticed. They'd have assumed it was a kitted RRS from Khan or those woeful Lumma efforts.

From the ones I've experienced, hesitant or jerky response, usually followed by an inability to rev.

Yes, I've done the same, my old VIN resides in pride of place on the top roll cab of the toolbox.

The instructions that came with my synthetic rope kit (Warn) said to spool on under load, the first time wasn't too pretty and didn't layer very evenly. I've since ran out and respooled it a couple of times and it seems to layer better now...either that or I'm just getting better at feeding it on.

In the recent snow I never had any issues with frosting over, wouldn't say it's any more of a chore than having to get out and wipe the halogens down once the filthy road spray bakes onto the halogens and reduces light output to a candle...my mk7 transit headlights get filthy and opaque very quickly.

I'm pretty sure I have a standard DIN mount similar to what James has in his pic languishing in the spare dash parts shelf....I will have a look later on when home

Well, mine has a 2" lift. It's on terrafirma shocks and medium duty springs. Road manners...no worse than any other defender I've driven and I have no anti roll bars fitted. I don't expect it to handle like a go kart, but it doesn't fall laughably about when shown a corner. It's running on 265/75 BFG km2s, so again an on-road compromise which affects handling characteristics (although damn good in the recent snow). It's polybushed from front to back so yet another black mark against its handling prowess as these get shot down in flames whenever mentioned too. Ride comfort: again, not much in it which will come down to spring rate selection rather than vehicle height. I find the 90 a bit more "choppy" than the 110 but I put that down to wheelbase more than suspension. It tows my 19ft flatbed trailer nice and level as well. So, to the OP I can only comment on my setup: it's fine for what I use and for comparison rides better than the standard L200 I had. I'd say they could've benefited from some thicker paint on the nice silver finish as the stone chips are beginning to rust..as are the springs ( powder coat would've been more durable than paint I think). Just remember if you do lift it to buy suitably extended brake flexis too.

The cameras at my mums have the IR LEDs around the lens and for what we need them for appear to be adequate. I have security floodlighting around her house so that triggers too so I find the Infra red part not entirely necessary, but watching at night without the floodlights on is fine. I'm not entirely sure on maximum range as I have them set up only to survey my mums property...not onto the public footpath out front, so at the 10-12m range (I think the data said 25m) they are clear enough for identifying anyone entering the grounds. It is more of a visual deterrent though, we erected a sign stating there was cctv operating within the ground and have had no issue since. The cow cams are inside lit sheds, so have white light source but they also have IR fitted too.