mickeyw

Agree with what James said ^^^. I have experienced this too. Also had similar noises when the crown wheel bolts came loose. When one bolt worked it's way out far enough it was decapitated with a loud bang. I only found this out when the last bolt broke and I lost drive That said, I still favour the first possibilty, especially as you D/L lever was stuck to begin with.

Is that SWB or LWB you're after? I have a good 109" rear prop in the garage.

Well after a lot of deliberation and lusting after various models I got carried away with the plastic and bought the Bosch GDS18V-HT 18V from Toolstop. I've had it over a month now and have to say that it can't fail to impress me more and more. The batteries just go on and on, and the torque (475 Nm) is phenomenal. It undid a rusty tractor wheelnut that handn't been touched for years with ease. Be warned though, this is one heavy duty tool and weighs in like one too, but it's what it can do that matters most to me. I have also invested in a set of deep impact sockets, just some fairly cheap ebay ones. I think my standard Halfords Pro sockets wouldn't have liked this tool very much.

Cushions off the sofa are very cheap, put them in bin liners to match the vinyl interior, the missus won't notice.

Glad to hear of someone going the diseasel to V8 route despite the government fuel price conspiracy. Nothing wrong with an LT85, I've used one for years. They're a little more agricultural and noisier than the R380 but they are very strong and take a lot of abuse. I've just taken mine out to swap for an auto, just because I fancied it. Afraid my old box is already spoken for though, but keep looking, there are a few about. Beware that the LT85 won't fit under a 200Tdi tunnel, it had it's own more spacious version. The hole in the tunnel is further forward than a Tdi type, so depending on where you take your datums from you may need to fab up your own tunnel. When I went to carb to EFI in my 90 I used an RRC EFI fuel pump (steel tank type), the fixing holes are exactly the same as the 90 tank. I did however need to lengthen the pickup pipe to reach the bottom of the tank. Not sure what other in tank pump options may exist. Good luck

^^^ Like Mo said Use with caution though, over zealous use breaks half shafts. How do I know?

A 1985 model I think will have a 'torpedo' type lamp unit with 2 screws holding it in. Remove floppy wheel arch to gain access to the nuts. Prepare for them to be rusted together, mine were . Had to drill the studs out of the lamp assembly to remove the whole thing from the wing [Requires care]. You'll still need the wheel arch off to fit the new lamp and get to the wiring. Part number 589143 shown below Hope this helps,

Hi Pat Definitely a factory V8 with LT85, I've had it since it was quite young. The tunnel is plastic with a VERY thick piece of foam behind it. Having looked at a 90 300Tdi since starting this topic it is now clear that the LT85 tunnel aperture is a good few inches further forward. This does at least explain why it all looked wrong to start with.

Hi there, I'm in a slightly different situation. The vehicle was originally a V8, so engine and gearbox are all in factory standard positions. LT85 and ZF auto are both the same length. I've just looked at a Tdi 90 and found that the hole in the tunnel is a good few inches further back compared to mine. So new tunnel and bulkhead adapter will be needed. Hopefully I can modify the seat box flange. Cheers,

Having just plonked a ZF auto box in place of my LT85 I now find the tunnel doesn't fit over the transfer selector components. I'm using the FRC8558 transfer bracket as recommended by Ashcrofts. The transfer lever is further rearwood than before, so the hole for the hi lo lever is too far forward. My tunnel is factory V8 & LT85 spec of 1986 vintage. Are the LT85 gear levers all mounted further forward than in the Tdi? It has been suggested that I use a 300Tdi tunnel, now I expect this will then not match my seat box, comments anyone? Next question is will the 300Tdi tunnel match up with my bulkhead? All help gratefully received. Thanks,

Thanks for the offer of lending yours Steve_d. And thanks for everyone's input too. I took a trip to my local auto factor to see what they could offer. I've ended up with the Sealey NC10 which looks to be pretty much a ringer for the Clarke Folding Jobbie that a number of you have. For reference the distance from where the ram attaches to the boom, to the hook is ~850mm when horizontal. So I think this should be fine for reaching into a Defender engine bay to lift a factory positioned V8, but a 200Tdi may need more reach. That said I think it would be easy to extend the reach if necessary. It lifted a V8 with ease at full stretch, the ram is rated at 3 tonne so even with an extended boom there must be grunt to spare. The rest of the frame looks man enough to cope. Another plus point is how small it folds up. At £140 inc VAT I think I got a pretty good deal.

Accoring to their website stalls are from 15 quid, so I read that to mean some kind of variable pricing structure will be in place.

IIRC there was a thread recently (sorry not been able to find it) that mentioned certain axles having a pressed steel cup already fitted to the top face. This would to all intents and purposes make one of the thinner centralising washers redundant. The OP of that thread could not understand why he had an extra washer, pretty much the reverse of your situation. Could it be that the shocks you have bought were intended for one of those axles? Regarding pin length, I have found that the non gen shocks tend to have a simple shaped bush (as in your picture) that is a bit thicker than the gen fancy profiled bushes. This would account for a little extra pin length. Edit: just found the thread, it was your rear shock thread Chris, silly me! Have you still got the spare washers from those? I would have thought they would do the job.

James, I have a serpentine belted 3.9 from a 1995 Discovery in my 90. The oil cooler pipes fitted to that were a perfect match with the 2.5TD rad I am using. The pipes had the O-ring style joint, as opposed to the tapered type I have seen on earlier RRCs, what year is your engine? I think the tapered type is 1/2" BSP, but I'm not sure about the thread on O-ring type joint. Maybe you could swap your cooler pipes for the later type...

Errr, thought V8s weighed lots less that a 4 cyl petrol...

Like Jon, I machined the series input shaft down. If you have access to a cylindrical grinder this is very easy. Sorry I can't remember the size, it was decades ago I made my own bush (Oilite), used the std diameters from the V8, but made it longer for better engagement with the input shaft. I ended up with a headed bush. Hope this helps,

A hoodie and a t-shirt in large please. Cheers,

Thank you Gents, Telehandlers and tractor loaders Such brutality! Probably very good for pulling a truck apart, maybe not so good for the delicate positioning of an engine in a vehicle that you want to remain intact. Oh and too much £ for me Looks like everyone is getting along just fine with the cheapy/borrowed ones, but still dreaming about the fancy expensive cranes. Alas I don't know anyone local to me who will lend one for more than an afternoon. If I just wanted it for a weekend, yes I would hire one. However normal enthusiast style faffing about generally requires longer availability. On top of all that I like to be self sufficient where possible. Cheers,

A few of us were there over Christmas and again on Easter Sunday. Definitely a site for serious tyres only in the wetter months. My half worn BFG muds really struggled with deep ruts and heavy clay One of the guys with Simexes and lockers made it look a lot easier I expect in the summer it's a whole different story.

I've been looking out for an engine hoist for a little while now. It won't see a lot of use so I'd prefer to spend as little as I can sensibly get away with. From reading other posts on here and elsewhere it seems that the 1 tonne types are still capable of lifting a V8, or even a Td5 at full reach (250kg rated). It also seems most can lift more than they are rated to (to a point). Clarke, Sealey and various unbranded ones crop up on our favourite auction site regularly in varying forms, fold up, not fold up, bolt together from kit and so on. I have looked at Sealey's NC10, Clarke's CFC100 and this unbranded model as being among the cheapest. I know cheapest ain't always best but that's where I have started. Who has experience of these, and are they up to Landrover abuse? Maximum reach seems to be around 1160mm on most of these, but that's measured from the boom pivot. To my mind a more useful figure would be from the end of the boom to the lift cylinder, that is to say the actual distance it can reach over an object. My main requirements are, it must fold for storage, must be upto LR engine or gearbox weights, be able to reach into LR engine bay, have wheels that can cope with a block paved driveway, and not be to much of a piece of cr4p . Any model recommendations, other advice and tips would be appreciated. TIA

I'm using the 2-part cowling from the 50th Defender. It fit's fine if you have a serpentine engine. Not so sure about the earlier multi belt engines.

Doh! Sorry Western, must take me welding goggles off when using the computer

Thanks Ciderman and Les for the link. Very interesting reading at Crown Diffs. I now have myself a diff rebuild somewhere in the distance

Is it possible to take a crownwheel and pinion from a 2-pin diff and fit it to a 4-pin unit? When I first got my 90 it had a 4-pin diff (V8s got the H/D rear axle). One day the nose of the pinion snapped off and there was a bit of a crunch. This happened at quite slow speed when I had to bump start the truck. As a quick/cheap repair I slung a spare 2-pin diff in and the 4-pin took its place in the garage with a view to fix it one day. After some years I'm now on the second 2-pin diff and my thoughts return to the 4-pin unit. Do I need to buy R&P that's specific to the 4-pin or are they swappable with 2-pin types? Obviously I'd make sure the crownwheel carrier still runs true before I tried any rebuilding. 3.54:1 BTW TIA

I think Britpart has now copied the Mantec one. Foundry 4x4 are selling them on ebay.