mickeyw

There was a write up recently in one of the comics about a chap who put an AMJV8 into RRC. Now that sounds like a lot a fun

More info from previous thread here. Beware that quoted boom length seems to be from the pivot point, not the actual distance you can reach over.

Errrrrm - hopefully most people will have thought of that, although I doubt it will have made any difference to JCB man [stroppy mode] Anyway we have veered off-course a little, the original point of the thread wasn't about bead breaking but removing the tyre completely from the rim once the air is out, valve core removed, bead broken by one means or another etc [/stroppy] As it is a sod to hold a wheel/tyre combo still when using tyre levers I plan to make something similar to that shown in the video of the manual tyre changer that Zim linked to above. A very simple, easy to use, easy to make, compact to store device, and can be made from odds n sods I have floating about, so cheap too.

I have a beadbreaker jack attachment as shown in this clip. It works well on newish tyres on clean rims, and does reduce the chance of damaging the tyre wall. However it's pretty near useless on old tyres on rusty rims, the foot just slides off away from the rim all the time I love the brutal simplicity of Paul's clip of the Jake. Not got the room for one of those though

Thanks Gents I've used my TyrePliers bead breaker all these years and never thought too much about a portable removal devices. I didn't know TP made a manual machine. The TP bead breaker is easy to use, I always found the biggest problem was holding the wheel & tyre still. Looks pretty simple to copy. I think mine will be made one that fitted in my 2" square receiver. I have nowhere to bolt anything to the floor, and a vehicle mounted one would be far more useful. I'll post some pictures when I've made something. Thanks again.

Visiting the local tyre shop every time I want to pop a tyre of a rim ends up costing far too much £ that would be better spent elsewhere. The DIY tyre changers on Ebay look far to flimsy to do LR stuff, so I've been thinking about making a tyre changer. I have a fairly reliable method of bead breaking in the shape of a set of Tyre Pliers, so that's covered. I also have a hefty set of levers, which will work for doing just one wheel but it's effing hard work. I just need to remove the scrap tyres from the rims and occasionally put tyres back on. Has anyone made such a tool? Or what other methods do you employ? Thanks,

I too have been using Paddocks for many years. If you know what part you need and use the online ordering system (if you know the part number it a lot easier) there is a very high liklihood of getting what you want. Some parts are of questionable quality, only experience helps you know what parts to expect to be OK and which to avoid. I have only once had a part that I had to return due to quality issues (V8 oil pump gear that was so out of true it was a joke(guess what brand )). Having bought a better quality part elsewhere I emailed Paddocks to tell them I wanted to return the item for a refund, issued a returns number no problems other than the refund took 2 phone calls to chase it. From other comments on here it seems the ordering problems mainly occur when you involve the telephone in the process. I too have recently used LR Series for when I have needed some more obscure genuine LR parts. They have taken longer to deliver due to them having to order them in, but this is normally advised during ordering. I agree they seem a bit pricey on delivery, but I think we have all got too used to getting a cheap/free service from Paddocks. If you are ordering something small it's worth ticking the box requesting a quote for delivery, as it often works out much less if they can send it by the P.O.

Very posh looking hotel. Are you sure it's in Wales? Those outdoor pictures look nothing like the Wales I know and probably won't look much like that in November When you find out some prices I'll decide whether I'm "public sector" or not although I somehow think 'er indoors will be making the decision for me

That's fine, 7th/8th now in the diary. Will await further info.

My Dad's been using an Aquavac in the garage for years. Good for wet or dry, just take out the paper filter for wet stuff, swarf yet to cause a problem. Even swallows bits of rag by mistake This one is rather newer than his but still claims to be wet or dry

Well after a weekend of getting high on paint fumes (well not really, I was good and wore a mask) I have a lovely set of vogue alloys in Ardennes Green. I got hold of the afore-mentioned set in the wrong colour but in really good nick, (they had already been re-finished) gave them a good rub with an ultra fine Scotchbrite pad to key the surface and applied several layers of paint, followed by some lacquer. My local paint supplier mixed up the metallic green base and stuck it in a spray can for me, very easy to spray, and a superb finish. Also got a can of lacquer from them and then some 5-wheels silver from Halfrauds. The old tatty wheels The blue wheels The silver edge Middle bit in green Then the silver redone, turns out it's easier to do this bit after the centre. And then a coat of lacquer. Total cost - £50 for the wheels and £20 on paint, All in all a very satisfactory result Only time will tell how durable this finish will be.

28Nm is around 21 Lb/ft, so about the same as HFH says for the large bolts. Same as bluespanner I've never torqued these bolts and never had a leak. As they are screwed into Ally I am generally more concerned with stripping threads if I over tightened them. Based on this I don't think the WSM is wrong. The first clip does spell out that it refers to the bolts that go through to the block (i.e. the large ones).

A friend has been involved in building a 150" 6x4 for a customer. It has air brakes for an Ifor Williams trailer it will tow (the Ifor has brakes been converted). He is using a Sanden air-con pump with two reservoirs to provide the air for the tralier brakes as well as the air suspension on the LR's 2nd and 3rd axles. There's all sorts of clever bits involved for both systems, they're pretty spendy I should think. I can see what else I can find out, the design has been pretty well honed as this is the second vehicle like this they have built.

I would say a V8 auto is definitely worth it, although I should think a 200Tdi would be easier to fit. If you have the RRC to rob parts off as required your job will be a lot easier. I would leave position the transfer box where it is and mount everything forward of that. You can then keep your existing prop shafts. Cut engine mounts off the RRC and weld onto the LR chassis once the engine is 'hanging' in the right place and bolted to the transfer box. The V8 will be much further forward than the original engine but there's still plenty of room for an engine driven fan. If you 3.5 has an engine oil cooler, a 2.5 TD rad should do the trick OK. As for tranny oil cooler, the RRC bog brush item fit's nicely between the LR rad panel. Keep the metal oil pipes to the front of the engine and make up some flexible hoses to the bog brush. As mentioned above you will need a larger transmission tunnnel. A 300Tdi/Td5 one will be fine, you can either fit a matching seat box, or cut and adapt the flange on yours to match up to it. You will need a combination of RRC, Disco and LR bits to get the transfer lever to come through the tunnel in the correct place. The engine loom should just reach if you mount the ECU on the bulkhead behind the seats. The fuel pump can be taken from the RRC, the sealing flange should be the same as the LR tank but you'll need to extend the pickup pipe. I spotted a thread on here about doing this recently. Err, what else? LPG and V8s work well as long as the ignition system is in top order. As your engine has the 'flapper' type injection, make sure you have an air flap protecting device fitted; otherwise one back fire and you'll be looking for a new flap valve Hope you feel encouraged by all this, I think it's a most excellent plan

While you're on the lookout for rear tub cappings it would be worth going for galvanised ones. I believe vehicles built as truck cabs had galved and painted cappings while hard tops had a painted only version. Alas, these latter ones corrode away just as quickly as any other LR part Early hard tops like my 1986 model had them galved all round, and then the bean counters came along

There seem to be plenty of rad flush type products to choose from, Wurth, Holts, Wynns to name a few. Some are suitable for ally engines, and some not. Having read a few scare stories re rad flushing I thought I would seek a few opinions What I'm looking for a product that is V8 friendly, so what does the LR4x4 collective favour? TIA

Sparex paints seems pretty good too. They do a whole load of LR colours inc Stratos Blue to match my 90. Many years ago I painted an old GF's horse trailer in Marine Blue and Limestone to match the 88" that towed it. Very smart looking.

No-one has mentioned replacing the tensioner bearing. Is this not possible in the same way as with the fan belt tensioner? I don't have a Tdi so I'm ready to be corrected on the above. Fan belt tensioner bearing (skf) can be just a few £ vs the whole assembly @45 for a cheapy one and very simple to swap over. Just a thought from a penny pincher.

Have to agree with what Bowie69 has said re MPG with a Classic. Mine's a 3.9 but a 3.5 will be near enough the same. I have seen 15 from it, and sometimes 10, but mostly around 12/13.

I remember that article too. Didn't he use a combo of front winch or a Tirfor and multiple snatch blocks rigged off various trees to right his vehicle? A very ingenious and inspiring fellow indeed. It just goes to prove that one doesn't need all the latest fancy suspension and other toys to achieve the kind of stuff he used to get up to. That stuff just didn't exist then... Afraid I had to throw out mags that old some years back. I tried to offer them to friends at the time but no takers, shame really. Hope someone can find you that article, wouldn't mind reading it again myself.

Not found the bracket photos, but here's the inside stuff. Not quite finished as the box could do with retrimming when I have a moment.

Just recently been through this exercise. You can have a look at this for the tidy and rather expensive option. Or my method was to build it into my cubby/speaker box. I've got some photos somewhere of all the brackets I made and the finished(ish) article. I'll have a look tomorrow and post some pictures then.

I think the age of engine you are talking about would be 3/8" BPT.

Most suppliers of O-rings and seals should be able to supply Quad rings. You will find the groove sizes are not the same but depending on what the part is you may be able to modify it. With the correct clearances and surfaces you will find far superior sealing. My local supplier is Apollo Bearings.

Series II Defender? Pah They know nothing!! Looks like a hint of Triumph Herald about that back end...