mickeyw

As has been said above, use the 110 more and enjoy it. What the real cost of little pleasures? Oh and not to mention the practicality... I have the daily choice of RRC or the 90 for my 15 minute trip to work. They're both old but reliable and tidy, both thirsty V8s, and no huge sums tied up in either. At first I tried to use one car one week, then the other the next week. Then the weather would turn cold and I would enjoy the superior heating and comfort of the RRC for a while and rather forget about the 90 After two or three weeks I would think to myslef 'I must use the 90 more', so out come the gloves, hat and scarf, and the ice scraper. (Outside 5 minutes earlier in the morning for the scraping too). Once on the way I begin to realise how much I enjoy the 90, and may have actually 'missed' driving it. Yes it's noisier, drafty and far less civilised, but I still like all that. Only those that drive a Landrover will understand this feeling. If I ever had to sell one of them there would be no question which would go. You'll loose out on so much if you go soft before you need to

What's wrong with using the efi pump in the series tank? I used an RRC efi pump (metal tank type) when I put the efi in my 90. I had to lengthen the pickup pipe a small amount (can't remember how much), but it works absolutely fine. After all it has to pump less distance now. The pump to tank fixing holes were exactly the same position and size. I THINK the series tank shares this hole pattern, ready to be corrected...

Could do this in our old 2.5 TD and the Tdi, but our 2006 110 CSW Td5 needs a very conscious effort to get the revs up before pulling away. F'kin fly-by-wire electronic anti-stall nonsense! Whatever happened to 'it does what it says on the tin'??? Give me a throttle cable and a governor any day.

Hope to be there too.

Bumped into this while at work today. Dormer Tools website Some pretty handy looking info on selecting the right drill bit, milling, tapping tools, and how to sharpen them too. Online purchasing there too.

True enough the latches are not expensive new, (Bought mine from Island 4x4). However ease of changing has a lot to do with how rusty your tailgate is in that area. When I replaced mine I was able to remove the upper screw with the nut, but the lower screw is tapped into the bottom rail of the frame. Combined with a cross-headed screw they are not easy to extract when rusted up. I ended up drilling the head of this screw to remove the latch body. If you are lucky, you may be able to work the remaining stud free with help from a few gallons of WD40 and mole grips. I was not this lucky, I ended up drilling down the middle of the screw and retapping it M6. This was a real a45e of a job. Make sure you have an assistant to hold the tailgate steady while drilling. There's some advice on latch adjustment here. Patience and persistence is the key to this job, and it is a job worth doing. I hate seeing slide bolts screwed to the corner pillars to keep the tailgate shut. Sounds like you won't be having this much grief as you have a rust free frame

Another vote for the square Wipac lamp. Weather proof and tree proof too Fitted to the same L-shaped bracket that came with the original Lucas (less tree proof) model.

What mods do you have fender? I've have my 90 V8 with NFU for years. They weren't worried about the winch, rock sliders, a bar or LPG conversion. Also useful in that they cover you for business use. However when I enquired about engine upgrades (GM V8 diesel) a few years ago the price would have gone through the roof, hence I'm still V8 petrol powered. I'm planning an auto conversion soon and am wondering what their reaction will be. Expect I may have to change insurer...

Thanks gents. Always good to have a few recommendations before using a new supplier.

As it says, has anyone used this company (www.brit-car.co.uk) and what was your experience like? It looks like much of what they sell is genuine parts as well as various aftermarket accessories. It's a shame their name sounds so similar to another company that supplies rather poor quality parts

Yes it happens here plenty, some drivers will nearly fall out of the window to wave at you, others will show you many hundred watts of spotlights instead I have noticed there to be quite a class structure involved though. It seems older series and early 90/110 owners will wave to most drivers , however drivers of newer Defenders seem more selective and I only get waves from some of them if I'm in my 90. RRC drivers mostly wave to other RRC drivers and Disco 2, RRS and newer don't wave at all, or maybe they just have very tinted windows and can't see me waving. Maybe this may be because there are more non-enthusiast drivers of the newer trucks. Also quite a lot of grumpy farmers around my way, so I don't bother waving to 90s with Ifor Williams tops now, lest I get scowled at with that 'get orf my land' look When I went to Holland many years ago in my series 3 people waved enthusiastically at us everywhere we went whether they were in a Landrover product or not. And welcome to the forum too.

Yuk, yuk and even more yuk. What a waste of a Landrover!

Be worth a look at some classic/vintage car restoration magazines and forums.

Hi Jason I have not fitted this cruise control kit but I can vouch for the quality of Spal components. I fitted their remote central door locking kit to my 90 a few years ago. This really is quality kit. I can't find a price for this Spal kit at Bearmach, but it may be worth your while comparing prices at www.sempal.co.uk. Sempal are the UK division of the Spal group. I found them very helpful and pleasant to deal with.

I've been using the same as Les for many years. Not amazing, but produces better flares when used in the vice rather than by hand. I've seen them crop up at autojumbles occasionally.

Duh, Think I have answered my own question - Item 10 unbolts from item 1 which is part of the LT85 and fixes to the top of the auto box if all the holes in the right place. Reuse the existing linkages and levers.

Sorry, forgot to mention, the manual box that I am replacing with the auto is LT85 which has a different transfer shift assembly that mounts on the main box and not on the transfer box. But if I am understanding you correctly the transfer lever assembly from an LT77 or R380 Defender should fit

<HIJACK> Sorry about this but I am doing the same conversion right now, BW to LT230 but in a Defender. Regarding sourcing the Hi/Lo/Difflock lever, mounts and linkages, what would the necessary parts have been fitted to originally? Would parts from an auto Disco 1, or 3.5 auto RRC fit? And will the lever be in the right place for the Defender tunnel? Apologies again </HIJACK>

And now some photos - Hope these help.

Neil I used 100 x 50 x 3mm for the sliders I made for my Ninety. I'll try and post some pictures later on. I removed the aluminium sill panels as they were already pretty mangled, so the sliders give good protection to the bottom of the doors. They protrude about an inch from the door. Fixing points used were the bulkhead outriggers and the rear tubular body outrigger. I think the 110 has slightly different arrangement at the back end. I also have jacking tube welded in at both ends, not that I have ever need to use them. For a finishing touch they are painted in body colour, so you don't really notice them to start with. Yes the paint gets scraped off sometimes, but its easy and quick to flick a paint brush over them and tidy up. Sparex do a good range of Landrover colours in an agricultural brush on enamel. I modified the original side steps and welded brackets to the sliders so they can be fitted or removed quickly by 2 pins with R clips. This truck is my daily driver after all

I have a good screen in a RRC I'm breaking, not heated though. Yours for pretty cheap if you're interested, and you'd have to collect it too. Doh! Just read your post properly, mine is not a bonded version. Didn't realise they did that on a classic .

Not strictly a cubby box, this is home for uber wattage 6"x9"s. Also a comfy place to rest one's elbow, a fixture for bottle holder, and thing to wedge loose carp behind. Behind the seats after various carp and jumpers dragged out of the way, I'd forgotten half of what's fallen down there.

I have an Atlas Copco (sometimes sold as AEG or Milwaukee) cordless drill driver in 12v form. It's about 3 years old now and I cannot fault this, battery life is superb and loads of torque and a decent ALL STEEL keyless 13mm chuck. It came with 2 12v batteries rated at 2.0Ah which seems well above the norm. Also more recently I bought a Hitachi combi drill (with hammer function) from Screwfix . Again, very impressed with its perfomance and feel. I don't think build quality is quite up to the Atlas' but it is comfortable to use and does the job well. Batteries seem to last for ages and hold charge well during periods of no use. Both drills are certainly nearer the Pro than DIY quality. Both around the £100 mark, I think you need to spend this much to get a worthwhile tool.

First aid kit, big Maglite, inverter, radio amp, tons of other carp too.

This one was a limited edition 110 SW in silver with Special Vehicles badge. It came with tons of extras by default - TC, ABS, anti-roll bars, EWs in front, remote CDL, half leather seats, silly rubber A bar and spots, side running boards, black checquer plate kit, Boost alloys, air con and more. Had it from new and it's coming up for 45k miles. I still don't think it's nice to drive as the Tdi we had before.