mickeyw

Same here

I have 2 vehicles, both 3.9s and both single point closed loop LPG but different makes and models of vaporiser and control device. The RRC tends to manage about 12mpg on short trips to work, but also has been known to do 17 on a motorway run. Not sure about petrol mpg, never really used it on petrol. This has very road biased tyres fitted. The Ninety, does around 12-13mpg on general running around and 18 on a motorway run. This is shod with M/Ts and carries a ton of carp inside. However motorway drives in this tend to be at legal speeds compared to the RRC. It's been a long time since I used petrol in the Ninety, might be time to do a tankfull for the purpose of comparision, but I used to get around 16mpg running around from its original 3.5 carb engine. I have been using LPG since 2001 on the Ninety, so my system is well and truly paid for now. Originally I had reckoned on 2 years mileage (about 15k for me) before I would get pay back. That was based on fuel prices at the time, about 32p/lit for gas I recall and petrol in the 60p ish region. There's a bit more than 30p difference between these two fuels now, so that should make pay back faster today

How about this for side on view of my 90 stretched to 100%... I never actually built this, just got bored messin' with Photoshop One day perhaps.... I thought this one looked a bit more balanced aesthetically, a shortened 110 Apologies for the picture quality, think I scanned it from a magazine. Hope these are of some use.

Ebay one looks shiney. Here's one I made a good few years ago. Can post a drawing if anyone wants to make their own.

This is feeling more do-able by the minute. I'm curious about the tune resistor business, it would be handy to not have to worry about O2 sensor problems. Where do these bits reside? Please tell me more. I assume to bin the ECU and AFM you mean go MS I have ideas about MJ in the future but it's early days yet, few other things to get done first. I quite fancy soldering up my own PCB, SMT stuff is pretty familiar to me. My setup is pretty standard except for single point Leonardo closed loop LPG. This has its own O2 sensor, no shielded wires on that. I only run on petrol for starting, or if the LPG system gets the hump (rare), or of course I run out I have already binned a good few redundant wires from the loom when the engine went in, just got to figure out which ones they were again. Thanks,

Complete axle change is fairly easy to do. I'm not sure the ends will swap over anway.

Thanks Fridge, I assume you mean cut the wires and solder extra bits in between? Time consuming yes, but perfectly do-able as long as I wear my special patience hat and have soothing music playing in the garage The wires from the o2 sensors appear to be shielded. How important is this and will cutting and soldering them affect operation? Any other useful little bits of advice from someone who has obviously done this once or twice would be appreciated. Cheers,

For the last couple of years my Ninety has had a serpentine 3.9 from a Discovery under the bonnet. When I bought the engine it came with the Disco ECU and engine loom. The ECU is currently fixed to the upper face of the passenger side footwell, cos that's as far as the loom would reach. To date I have had a couple of instances where I was worried about water levels inside and submerging the ECU. I have been wondering what options are available to extend the loom to allow a higher location, ideally I would like to move the ECU to the bulkhead behind the seats. I know there are loom extensions available for the td5, what about V8s? Thanks,

I have the September 2006 version from Green Oval. Has anyone made a more recent one available? Cheers.

I have dealt with NFU in Oxted for many years. They have always been competitive and helpful. No big drama with an LPG conversion, just wanted to see an installation certificate. Equally they weren't concerned about the winch, the rock sliders etc, so long as I had told them what was fitted. My only very, very minor beef is that when my mother's 110 was written off she only got a Corsa as a courtesy car. Not allowed to put dogs in it and must be returned spotless, mother is a sheep farmer with several collies! All this said I think this matter was more down to the insurance assessing company that NFU.

I have a VDO temp gauge too, I couldn't get any std LR sender to work correctly with it. Had to use the VDO item.

Okay, now I understand I think, just clamped during tuning. Now I fully accept that filters should be kept clean, but if you have a lambda controlled system, as I do, I would have thought that would be able to take care of some variations in running conditions (within reason). I have also read here on other threads that changes in weather can upset the mpg, but again wouldn't the lambda control be able to compensate? Who, apart from RPI, sells service kits for OMVL vaporisers? Thanks,

What's with the clamped vac pipe? Are you preventing vac advance? I've not heard of this before I too have the two-stage OMVL vaporiser. What does your servicing consist of?

Yep, been painfullty slow for me since last night. Of course it's OK right this minute.

Thanks everyone for your comments. I was planning to keep my existing t/box on the basis that the selector lever will stay in the same place. It's a 1.2 box as fitted to a factory V8 90, this works well with the 265 BFGs that I currently run. The engine is an EFI, came from a 1995 Disco that was an auto, so I hope all the brackets I need will be in place. I hope to scavenge all other sundries off the donor car when I find the right one. I have an offer of an RRC to remove the box from myself. This should make the scavenging easier. So, parts to collect apart from the box, Shift lever, cable & brackets Kickdown linkage Oil cooler and pipework Chassis mounting brackets... What have I not thought of?

Hi Sean I looked at Ashcroft's site a while back, and indeed this shifter kit looks superb, if a bit pricey for me. I'm planning to use as many bits from the donor car as I can and fabricate the rest. My main area of interest right now is whether the tunnel or seatbox will need changing to accomodate the ZF autobox. I've had a re-read of Ashcroft's pages as well as a search on here and haven't turned up the info I need yet. Must keep looking. Thanks.

After some months of pondering I have decided to swap the LT85 in my Ninety for a 4 speed auto from a RRC. The plan is to bolt it to the LT230. I am told this will fit direct. Can anyone confirm this? The vehicle is a factory built 1986 V8 with LT85. Will the ZF 4 speeder fit under my existing tunnel and seatbox, or will I need to change some panels around? Engine is currently an ex 1995 Disco 3.9. Thanks in advance.

I bought a set of Infinity components in Halfrauds last year for my RRC. The lower mounting position for mine (1990 model and no boot sub) took up to a 5" speaker.

Andy Sargent of AJS 4x4 did this years ago with a 100" (I think) Defender style racer. I am thinking around the time Bowlers first came on the scene. I seem to recall the windscreen was raked back more than standard and the door tops modified to suit. The rear van sides were cut down too I guess. As for the seating height I don't know what was done. Now waiting for someone who knows that truck to tell me I got it all wrong

I'm preparing to go auto in my 3.9 V8 90. I haven't found a box yet, but your comment above is useful as I was not aware of this difference. Are the gear ratios any different between the 3.5 and 3.9 boxes, or is it just the lock up speed? Thanks.

Two Landrover heaters- One RRC 3.9 blows lovely warm air through in just a couple of minutes. One LR90 also with 3.9 V8 takes f ages before warm air comes through. I have already checked all the cables and flaps are correctly adjusted. It does blow nice'n'hot, eventually. But why such a difference in time 'till hot? They both use tons of fuel so ought to warm up quickly enough. Is it just down to the RRC having a bigger heater matrix? or is it that it takes a while longer to warm up the lower tinwork of a Landrover dash? What other tricks may there be in the RRC? I'm sure I read about someone piggybacking two heater matrices once into an oversized casing. That may have been with a series setup. Has anyone tried this with a Defender type, and still got it to line up with the intake duct in the wing?

I'm concerned I can see a missing bumper to chassis bolt in this picture. Hopefully you'll be fitting one there after your rebuild Michael

25mpg? Are you going downhill with the engine off? That's more like 2.25 diesel economy! I used to drive one of those too. My old 2.25P never managed more than 20mpg on a long run. I had an overdrive and road tyres at the time to achieve this. Normal mpg was more like 17-18. As a comparison the V8 90 I currently have has been gased for 7 years now. MPG on petrol was about 14-18 depending a type of trip. LPG running manages 13ish for normal running around. I did record 18 on a run behind a 2.5 diesel 90 once. Note this is with big BFG M/Ts. It is true that LPG is not as economic as petrol. I reckon I save around 30% costs on average, not quite the 50% that is often banded around by the LPG converters. I converted both my vehicles myself, the kits cost £750 for the V8 90 and a bit more for the RRC as I fitted twin tanks. I only do about 8000 miles a year but I plan to keep my motors for a long time, so I say LPG is definitely worthwhile. As for insurance, I have never had any problems with that either. The 90 is with the NFU at no extra premium. I have been completely honest with them about the conversion. It was a self installed system, so they asked that it was inspected by an approved installer. No problems there. My RRC with LPG was insured through Firebond, again no problems getting cover. Michael

The motor may just need a clean up. Check the brushes and commutator are in good condition, and that the spindle bearings allow it to rotate freely. If you've done all this get an lecky engineer guy to check it out. I would have thought any of the Warn dealers could get you a new motor. I'm sure someone here can recomend who to go to. As for the lowline idea, does it look like the bridge part unbolts from the rest? If not you could cut that part off. Albrights are a good idea, they may sound expensive, but you only need one of them to replace the four warn ones. Also they work when you need them too. Very glad I changed mine. Michael

Ultimately it depends whether you have lots of £ and can afford to buy new/are too lazy to rebuild. However I don't think what you have there is past revival. I rebuilt my very early (3rd-hand) M8000 some years back, the gearbox internal components were seriously rusty, but everything cleaned up good enough to work very well. Some of the parts, such as the brake assembly (was seized up) were no longer available from Warn. I spoke to Bill at Arbil about parts, gave him the serial number, he was most helpful, faxed me part diagrams and all, just couldn't get me any obsolete parts . Further investigation showed most of the brake parts could be salvaged. The needle roller clutch bearings were available from my local bearing supplier at just a few £ each. My local auto electrician who's in his 70's checked the motor over, gave it a clean bill of health, so a few beer token were issued there. The rebuild ended up costing very little at all, so my vote is defo to rebuild yours, and if you need a few parts, go to the local engineering suppliers if you can. Good luck with your rebuild Michael