mickeyw

Helicoil taps are larger than nominal diameter, but retain the thread pitch. So an M10x1.5 Helicoil will need a special tap large enough to create the thread for the insert, but still be 1.5 pitch. Normally a larger size screw will have a coarser pitch. Hope that makes sense.

So this would be best organised for a bank holiday weekend, leaving Monday for the post-Slindon fixing

I can't remember who originally said that an open workshop manual, and a pile of engine parts on the front seat should be a good deterent to anyone hoping to drive away in a stolen vehicle.

Like Dave W says, a taper bearing can be adjusted up until all slack has gone - eve to the extent that it's been overtightened. So, if new bearings have been installed and they have been tightened sufficiently the movement is coming from elsewhere. As mentioned above, worn king pins and bushes can produce up and down slack too. That is where I'd look next. Jack a wheel up (preferably with a sturdy trolley jack), so it just clears the ground. Using a shovel under the wheel, get an assistant to gently lever the wheel up and down while you have a look for movement in the swivel area. Usual warnings about safety, chock wheels etc apply. If movement is visible the swivel pins are loose, and can sometimes be adjusted up, depending on extent of wear. On the bearing quality front - <confession> I once bought BP bearings </confession> from Paddocks - when I opened the packet I was amazed to find they were full of swarf!!!!!!! The guys at paddocks didn't believe me until I emailed them some photos. They replaced the bearings without arguement, I requested and paid the extra to have Timken parts this time.

Just come across this thread. Well done to all involved for such a fantastic effort. You would be right to be proud of yourselves, despite the fact that you were happy to help anyway. It's so good to read of a bunch of like minded strangers pulling together to help the less fortunate. I have to say how it saddens me that there are some 'professionals' who are happy to take advantage of the elderly. I am now in the position of having to 'vet' some of the issues my own father who is in his 80s gets presented with by various unscrupulous sales people, so I can fully sympathise with Dennis' situation. I only hope he doesn't feel too embarrased by this state of affairs. Yet again some new friendships have been forged, all because of a Landrover Again, well done guys.I wish I could have helped out too.

An aquaintance of mine has a very tidy X reg 88" 2.25P, with very similar mileage, but it's stood in a barn unused for the last 7 years or so. The brakes need renewing, some chassis welding, set of tyres and a good T-cut. He's recently been offered £500 for it, which he was happy to accept. He'd been on about selling it for a few years, and finally had a interested passer-by ask about it. With some VERY straight body panels it will make its new owner a good foundation for restoration.

Although the LT85 wasn't used in the numbers that LT77 and R380 have been, don't think it isn't worth something. They are strong boxes, albeit not as refined as later types, but they put up with a lot. I know of a few people running them behind big diesels. The solid case is the better one to have. Of course, as you say, your location is a bit of an issue. Have you considered sticking it on ebay, sold for repair/exchange unit? If someone has a truly lunched 'box, buying a repairable one as an exchange unit is often cheaper than the reconditioner's core charge. Another 6 posts and you can even advertise it on here

Not sure why you would need to graft/use an air wrench onto the drawbar. If the threads concerned are all clean, you should be able to spin the drawbar in your fingers most of the way, then just nip up with a ring spanner for the last l'il bit, probably no more than 1/2 a turn. Doesn't need to be tightened by a gorilla, that's what knackers drawbars and chucks

If you are lucky enough to have the early lift handle doors, you have more elbow room already. The door cards are a good 1/2 inch thinner than the push button items. Seat movement had definitely happend by the time the 300tdi came along.

Jimmy - the original ones are solid, and I've never heard of one failing. The later single piece straight type are tube, not solid.

You call £19/M cheap?

Both types fix to the underside of the door sill. The 90/110 type has an extra stay that braces it to the chassis. With a tank under the driver seat this stay passes beneath the tank IIRC and can get clobbered when off-roading. It is of somewhat stronger construction than the series type. Series type 90/110 type Oh and neither type fixes to any outriggers.

Never mind torque wrenches, I think BM has calibrated it very well for us here. How loudly you grunt may make a difference of course

I've had 21w front sidelight bulbs fitted for years. Only problem I have ever had was a bulb dying No idea what origin the lamp holders are, maybe the damp moss and mud that accumulates in my lights acts as a heat sink

This is close to what I'm going to suggest - This will only work if you cross the slope in one direction - a counterbalance arm fitted on the uphill side. I suppose it could be made to be used set either one side or the other. A bit like the concept of sailing, the crew hangs out to balance the boat against the wind.

Does this mean your truck will be back together and on the road by then ?

Luke - my Bridgeport came with a manual , I'm sure I could scan it if you fancy a copy. I bougth a 5 gal err 25 lit can of slideway oil on the bay. It's not the same name and number as the book mentions because the lube grade naming seem to have changed since the book was written, but it is an equivalent and suitable for the job in hand. I have R8 tooling for mine, there's one plain collet chuck, and a small Clarkson Autolock (<16 dia shank) which covers quite a lot of options. As well as a number of fly cutters which I love for ally, there's a smallish interchangeable insert cutter for shifting larger amounts of metal, good for blocking up operations. As for speeds and feeds I tends to go by what my experience (15 years in toolmaking) tells me is right. When I was at college one of our lecturers tipped us all to write, (yes an actual letter) to Dormer tools, requesting a small reference handbook they produced for free. The people at Dormer must have hated our lecturers for this , but the book is really good. It has speeds, feeds etc for various materials, thread data, tapping drill sizes etc, bit like a Zeus book but with extras. I still have it in my toolbox I'm sure there's probably a similar online resource for this now, but production cutting tools have changed so much. The machining most of us (except Si) get upto in our garages, tech-wise, is more akin to what I learned as an apprentice. Good luck with fixing your machine up, you've made a great choice.

Have to agree here, even with an 88" it there is a noticable change in ride. I used to fit the safari (sliding windows) roof in winter and rag top in summer. I started with 3 leaf rears and ended up removing the 3rd leaf. Even putting the spare wheel in the back, especially on the rear door will also change the ride. But before you go making it more bouncy, have a think about how laden you might need to be from time to time. By the time you have 4 mates in the back you might end up regretting something. Also towing a big trailer with soft suspension can be horrendous, although I doubt you have your trailer test yet

There was a Series LR with back hoe at Billing a few years ago. The whole thing was VERY rusty. I believe it is in the custody of Dunsfold LR, although I can't see any evidence on their website. I shall consult my photo archive this evening. I can't believe I would have passed it without taking a photo or few

Yep, been there, done that. You are spot on Mr Fridge. My 3.5 powered 88" was a damn sight quicker than the 90 with same engine (did I mention it was soft top? ). With 3.5:1 diffs illegal cruising speeds were easy to achieve and maintain. Even with that engine I had no issues with the series transmission, you can still go quick and be gentle(ish) to the gears, even when towing big things. Biggest problem was always cooking the drum brakes.

That looks nice 'n' substantial Si. Looking forward to photos of it assembled and fitted.

Thanks for reporting back. It's good to hear you received good service at DAS. I have yet to use them for anything, but I've heard a few good reports now.

The Woolies channel looks the same as you used to find for sale at many of the shows in 3M lengths. I have reglazed many removable door tops with this stuff. I've also used it to replace worn out sections on my early lift handle doors. Just cut it carefully and position the new screws in a fresh location to avoid the original rusty ragged holes in the door.

I like that. Any idea where to get lynch pins with a curved clip? I've only ever come across the flat clip type.

I was going to suggest replacing the air filter, as a clogged up one can often mess with the emissions. However if that was the case it would be running rich rather than lean. I haven't heard of a car failing an MOT for being too lean before. Are we sure the lambda reading is in fact too lean?