simonr

I have the five prototype versions on my bench at the moment. These will need thorough testing before they are released into the wild. I will certainly have a release version in time for Billing in July or possiblya bit sooner depending on how the trials go. The first trial fit will be to Marks Series II tomorrow if the weather is less hostile than today! Si

You are correct - but the same still applies. The winching duty cycle will need to reduce as the load increases. If you have the power/torque, chances are you will use it - at least until it lets the smoke out. Si

I've had a fair bit of over-volting experience one way or another. It works kind of well with a series wound motor as the current draw is directly proportional to the load. For a given load the amount of power lost in the motors resistance is 1/4 what it would be on 12v - so it will take longer to heat up under normal circumstances and should, if anything last longer. The down side is that if you have the extra power - double the torque - and you use it - you will half the run time of the motor before it overheats. On a permanent magnet motor, you would double the line speed as well - but you dont get quite double on a series wound motor for complicated reasons. It is not uncommon in industrial applications to over-volt and limit the current to a maximum value such that it doesn't cook the motor. You could do almost the same if you perhaps only used the motor in short bursts when it is heavily loaded - say 5 seconds winching and 5 seconds idle. This gives the same heat loading at full power as the 12v system at full power - but with almost the same average line speed as 12v, but with double the torque. The bottom line is - if you are careful - it wont be a problem. The best solution would be to use a clamp type meter to read the max current drawn by your winch. Leave it on there when you are using 24v and when the current gets above the max on 12v, start winching intermittently. It wouldn't be rocket science to build a loop type current monitor that sets off a buzzer when you are exceeding the maximum - or even better if it were to beep on a combination of time & current so you know to give it a rest when it starts beeping. Si

Caustic soda works! Quite exciting if you bung Al powder in concentrated NaOH and light with a match - it evolves Hydrogen. Si

The flasher relay is electronic - no bimetalic strip. Generally problems like this are down to ingress of water into the relay. There is a transparent blue plastic cover - not sealed in any way to the base which the contacts poke through. Reccommend taking it out & sticking it in the airing cupboard over night. This is the only way the trailer light can be dimly illuminated. Do not be tempted to seal with silicone - the fumes corrode the tracks on the board and it stops working a few weeks later! I carry a spare instead now. Si

Some stuff gets spread around between stalls before it opens to the public by traders buying off one another figuring they can get a better price. This would be particularly true with ripped bits which I would imagine being cheaper than non ripped ones. I don't think it's the fault of Sodbury - and I think that if it weren't Sodbury, it would just be somewhere else. I would say that being in one place, there is a better than average chance of catching them. I think there are enough distinctive bits of your truck to be able to spot them and point one of the police there in the general direction. Si

Try flaring the end of the pipe a little using a screwdriver working it roud in a circle to stretch the metal at the end. It will do wonders! Si

Sorry you're having a pants day James. I've had an electric shock off my welder - using it in the rain! and went to change a punctured tyre - and discovered the spare is leaking as well! It just seems to be one of those days. Si

Trying to re-model your roll cage? Testing the strength of a seat belt? Trying to bend the pin on a shackle? Experimenting with ruining your plasma using a shackle as a snatch block? Buiding a 'death slide' for dwarfs? Training to be a tight-rope walker? Si

Rhinocad for me! www.sproklegrommet.co.uk Si

Which has just arrested your mum for streaking

Well, it's not me - but at least it's something I built! A folding electric bicycle! Si

Flying Blow up doll 'Flying Saucer' Squeeky Talking I think those alone would keep Simon C & I ammused for weeks! Si

Cheers for the info - The mobile phone / big stick solution looks the best. Si

I'll be there either way dude! Si

Sorry to hear that - nice truck too. Maybe time to invest in a tracker for my SV! On your next one, how about a large steel spike locked in to the middle of the seat base? If it gets nicked - you just have to cruise the S&M clubs of kent to find the perp I'll keep a look out by the way! Si

Just finished listening to good-ole Zig. He sounds a lot like, Forrest Gump, but makes him sound cultured & interlectual. Most of what he said was common sense and the rest was a load of 'interesting' stories about his past sales experience and how great he is. Within 30 sec I wanted to strangle him - by the end, gouging his eyes with a screwdriver seemed too good. Pure torture! Anyone want a free CD / Coffee mat? Si

Don't know precisely, but lets work it out! Let's assume standard arms are X cm long and that on a normal height vehicle they are horizontal. If you lift it by 2", you have a right angle triangle (roughly) with one side 5cm, one side X cm, so by pythagorus, your new length Y will be: Y = Square root ((5 x 5) + (X x X)) The bend will not be absolutly at the chassis end (probably 10cm away towards the axle or so). Lets call this distance away from the chassis mount Z. The angle of the bend A will be: Tan A = 5/(X - Z) or A = ArcTan(5/(X-Z)) degrees If you measure the length of your existing arms, from the middle of the chassis bush to the middle of the axle bush (the two points around which it rotates), I or someone else will calculate it for you if you like. Si

I like the last option - that way you can pressurise only when in water. The biggest issue with pressurising is that all your seals will leak - after all, most of them leak without the positive pressure! I'd go with pressurising via the breathers either way. Si

I (strangely) was going to suggest the same! I was wondering where you'd vanished to - and now I know! See you at Sodworthy. Si

Not totally convinced about the Alternator & Turbo being so low down on the engine - bound to cause problems with water. The oil/pas ? pipes on the front of the sump could also be an issue. Other than that, they don't look bad. It could be that these reasons are why they decided to re-engineer another engine? Si

SAE, Cash and Keyring sent. Si

Is it the iveco 2.8 that's going to be fitted to defenders? Si

My 90's is made from 2" and the SV is 48mm - are there any other common ones? Is 2" more or less common than 50mm? Cheers, Si

A better question would be - "who on earth would want to eat rat-packs by choice?" Full of lovely bromide! (much like wedding cakes so I'm lead to believe ) Si