simonr

That one isn't bad - but doesn't include shows. If the forum has a calendar, perhaps we could use that to collectively build our own. Use the same rule as the classifieds i.e. need to have 20 posts to be able to add to the cal to stop it being used for advertising and appoint a moderator or two with responsibility for policing and keeping it up to date? I think a lot of people would find it useful if it were well populated. Si

Git Si

I just have one acronym: EDIS Si

Despite being a die-hard V8 fan - I would have the 2.8. It seems to be a bloody good engine and you get some economy with it. I hav to admit, I'm sorely tempted to go back to diesel - now I know a little more about that kind of stuff and how to safely get more poke out of them. Si

While the chassis is plenty up to it in terms of current handling, it's more about the number of connections between A and B. A good example of this is my 8274. It draws 385 amps when stalled from the winch battery. The vehicle battery is connected to it through a split charge which involves an additional 5 properly made connections (including the relay contacts). The current pulled from the second battery is only 160A. Thus each connection is loosing (385-160)/5 = 45A It is not quite as simple as that as there are other factors involved - but it is sufficient to say that each connection is reducing the max current available by a significant amount. Reducing the connection count to the starter by two - as I'm suggesting will mean that you will be able to crank for longer from a flatter battery (particularly important on a V8 Auto!). This also goes for the earth connection to the winch and anything else which benefits from higher currents. De-oxygenated copper still corrodes. In practice the corrosion of the cable itself is limited. you tend to get more inside the terminals where it meets the cable. This is why it is important to crimp them properly (not just squash the terminal a bit in a vice ). Incidentally, soldering is not good for high currents, but crimping then soldering protects the connection from the atmosphere and gives you about as good a connection as you'll get. In a previous life, I had to deal with low voltage (24v), 1200A and above connections where this kind of detail can make the difference between working and catching fire! Si

Like Mr Freezer, I would not reccommend it on the grounds of the insulation not being rated for mains. However [Whisper] I may have done this onceor twice [/Whisper] If you put the whole thing in a decent plastic box - it should be OK. Most electrical factors sell very good (and cheap) plastic enclosures which are rated for mains voltage. One of these would be ideal. Si

I know it's not ideal, but could you not get them to cut it down into shorter lengths. What you save on shipping you can spend of getting it welded back together? Si

I bought one of these: http://www.johndavies.co.uk/nplasma.htm Just a 30A one - it's on the limit of what you can run from a 13A socket - and I'm pretty pleased with it! It will do a tidy cut on 6mm and a fairly rough cut on 8 or 10mm - but nothing a grinder wont fix. They are chinese, but John Davies say they can be fixed, but have had none returned faulty yet. The box it comes in is very cheaply made, but the internals are very nicely made indeed. I suspect the internals are badge engineered for other bigger brand manufacturers (having seen the same layout of controls, size of box etc with one or two other brands printed on.) Si

I'll be there! In a professional capacity - knocking out some old tat and with a bit of luck, some new tat as well! I'm unlikely to get much time for wandering around - but you are all welcome to stop by for a free can of coke if you're passing! Si

I would vote for none of the above! Run the earth cable to one of the starter motor mounting bolts and from there to the chassis via a bolt welded to chassis. Run the earth for a winch directly to the battery. Use as heavy cable as you can for earths - at least 35mm. What is the one thing in the vehicle which draws the most current - the starter. The Alternator is also earthed through the engine. give them both the best chance by making your engine the primary earth. All the bulbs, radios & stuff can connect via the weedy earth strap (or choke cable ) you've run between the engine & chassis. Si

There's no pleasing some people! It is 4kg lighter than the alternative though. I shall look forward to mine! (Oh blimy - another project! ) Si

Brilliant - Thanks! Si

My favorite photo of the day was: Two fav photos of Guy? He must have changed his aftershave or something! Si

It's amazing how much comedy value there is in a chap eating a banana! Si

Proper tea is one thing I miss when in Europe. 'Liptons London Tea' tastes of sick! "Why do Marxists drink lemon tea? Because proper tea is theft!" Si

I have a sort of related question! I have purchased an efi manifold etc - but it came without any of the wiring loom (apparently sold to someone else!) Any ideas where I can get the connectors that plug in to the injectors? Worst case I could just solder them, or use tiny female spade terminals - but I'd rather (for once) make a tidy job of it when I install my megasquid. TIA Si

The little solid state TIG or MMA welders are very good in general - however - the big advantage of a decent mig welder with a big transformer is they are almost indestructable, will survive a lot of abuse including getting wet (although not reccomended) and even if you do break it, it's easy & cheap to fix. If you fancy welding while perhaps climbing a tree or taking it on holiday with you one of the little SS units is just the thing - but personally, I'd rather have one with a transformer (and I'm pretty techy when it comes to electrickery) MMA (stick) and TIG welding are a lot harder than MIG to get right. If you are just starting out, you will get more use and enjoyment out of a MIG. Particularly if you are welding cars & stuff - you don't need anything other than a MIG. Spend the same kind of money as you would on an inverter and you wont go far wrong (and buy an auto-darkening helmet too - it makes life so much easier!). You don't need 300A - something closer to 200 will be plenty. Bottom line: Buy a MIG. Si

In reverse cronological order: "Big Monkey" Jim Well, they had to break something! - It's tradition! It's a V8 Thing! Jay - Tied up I think Tony was just showing off here - why take the easy option when you can have a near death experience! Is that Jesus in an HV Jacket? (no riots or burning Embasies please) Limp wrist? Nick "death wish" watts - doing his thing. One of the best bits of lateral (or vertical) thinking I saw all day! I thought it was a bloody well organised and well marshalled event. I had a good time (much less stress than usual - and I didn't come last!). Nice to see everyone. Si

Can't access the site - it says you have to be registered! Si

I shall certainly give it some thought. I have a 93 SV90 to throw in to the mix - you probably wont get another of those! Si

A lot of toffees would be high on my list. Si

You've said what it is and when, but where does the run go from and to? It says you get an entry to something at the end - what? Is this something like london to brighton? Neither your post nor the site linked to give much away - perhaps if they did there would be more takers? Si

I would look at brushes, then regulator / brush pack (probably about £15 to buy). The fact that it is charging meand the rest of the alternator is fine. Si

I would just weld the bolts to the bumper / chassis. It only needs a tack weld - enough to stop you getting a socket on it and to stop it rotating. You need a grinder to remove them - but if they have a grinder - they will get it anyway. Those No-Go bolts say they are grinder proof - but I've seen one (or something very similar) removed by cutting a slot with a grinder in the top (to make a big screw) and using a lever to rotate the whole thing including the bolt until enough thread is exposed to cut that. Nothing is 'proof'. Weld is cheap and easy and nearly proof. Si

Steve, as RB says above, there is no standard for what 33% duty cycle actually means. If you are running larger tyres, I would suspect that it will overheat - particularly if you need to do more than one. Even though the 100% delivers less air, you can rest assured it will not let the smoke out at some inconvenient moment. If you can run a reservoir, I would! You don't really need to for what you have in mind - but they do give you lots of air delivery (all be it briefly) if you need it. For example putting a tyre back on the bead or running your rattle gun. Also, for things like your ARB's, you have pressure on demand without having to wait for the compressor to build up enough to engage the locker. On my 110, I used my spare tyre at 60 psi as a reservoir! Not enough for rattle guns but good for most other stuff - and you can guarantee it will be pumped up when you need it! Si