simonr

Assuming the original installation was OK (You nasty man - Turbocharger), I would have to suspect water ingress. The Kevlar fibres in the belt are denatured by water which tends to weaken it some - and they stay weakened. Even with the drain plug fitted, the vacuum created as the housing cools can suck loads of water through the smallest crack. When you replace the belt, silicone the gasket and also the cover plate through which you adjust the timing. Might also be worth considering a breather? Si

Ooops! Sorry for the bum steer then chaps! I've not really looked at anything other than the steering rods - and I would still say they are pretty good. When I bought the first set, the kind of off-roading we were all doing was pretty tame compared to now - so I guess that plays a part too? I guess that a lifetime warranty on what is effectively a consumable part was a bad idea. Si

I'd agree with chris - it doesn't all look too bad. It's dirty - but that's what engines are! Have you dismantled it because there is another problem in need of fixing - or just for a look? Si

I bought some of the original QT rods - before QT was really QT, just Dave flogging them at Sodbury. I did manage to bend the track rod, but it was hitting a tree-stump doing about 30mph - so not surprising. I mentioned it to him at billing - and he said "you know they have a lifetime warranty?" - which I didn't. He replaced it on the spot - which impressed me hugely - even though I didn't have the bent one with me. I have run the replacement one for many years now and it has never given me any problem. I'd buy another QT one, not just for te strength, but the exceptional customer service! Si

I would buy: A battery Impact wrench/gun These are a bit expensive but are the best thing since peanut butter. It would be first on my list if I had to start from scratch again. Next would be one of the prop-shaft tools and a hub spanner mentioned above. Next would be decent axle stands (Billing is always a good place for these) A good trolley jack is a must. An angle grinder is very useful on occasion (Sparkly Spanner / Hammer - so called) A decent Battery Drill is invaluable. These have become good enough now that I do not even own a mains hand drill. Mine is a 12v Dewalt with 13mm chuck and hammer action. I don't think you need much more than 12v - at least you don't gain much. The 12v ones are pretty cheap on ebay these days. The biggest advantage of a 12v drill is once the battery is flat - you can always hot-wire it to run from your LR battery. That's about all I can think of. Si

I had a chat with them about this and they said that it is because they were suffering a lot of fraud (don't quite know how you would use this to defraud them?). Saying you need a receipt just means they have grounds to refuse if you look dodgy. The manager said that i you look the part (oily, no extra eyes or fingers) you will not even be asked for a receipt. I went in and bought another set to keep in the 90! Si

Luke - that's brilliant! I had an LT77 that drank (leaked mostly) ATF at such a rate that I made a remote filler with a tube which went in to the gearbox filler hole connected via a tube to a 1l oil can hung from the wing mirror. Flow was regulated via a fold in the tube held with a cable tie such that it dripped in at about the same rate as it drank it. It lasted a couple of hundred miles before completly seizing (so maybe the filler wasn't that good an idea after all!) Another one I had was on my Series 2 (AEF 568A - just in case it now belongs to one of you). The chassis had rotted some and cracked above one of the rear wheels. I couldn't weld and didn't have the money to get a grown up to do it so.......... I attached a micro-switch to the chassis such that when the crack opened up it sounded the horn. Then taught myself to drive ethe thing without the horn sounding all the time Eventually decided it was a death-trap and flogged it! Si

Have a chat with Tim & Nigel at Marden Engineering in Crawley. Much of their work is stainless and I suspect because a lot of their work is repetitive & boring - they get very enthused with things like this! If you can draw it, they can make it - nice chaps too (they even like Land Rovers!) Mention me if you like as an in (Simon Rafferty). They are on 01293 530 530 Si

Good post - nice piccies! I had to do this twice on my 110 - the fork only lasted 30k or so. On the replacement, I welded a piece of 1/4" plate to the fork to stop it punching through ever again! If you have the facilities and are doing this - I would suggest you do the same. At least then you (or anyone else) will never have to worry about it again! Si

If you don't like Laptops or PDA's - at least not on the trip - your Garmin V is about the best available option. Even if you have to buy the maps for Morocco - they will be cheaper than a laptop or PDA, even from eBay. I think the Garmin V is the best thing since sliced bread and would not swap mine for anything! Si

I wish you would reconsider Les - I will be sorry to see you go. At least accept this chairmanship thing. I don't quite understand pulling the catflap thread though? OK, the IPR belongs to you but it contains stuff which is likely to be of use to a lot of people in the future. Pulling it seems a strange thing to do? I'd like to publicly thank you for you support of late with one thing or another - it meant a lot to me. Si

These don't quite qualify as fog lights - although the 'star trek' effect in snow is pretty cool! Si

The best, longest lasting, most abrasion resistant is dip galvonizing - but it changes the shape of things (warps), closes up holes , bungs up threads and reduces the overall tolerance of a part. Next is spin galvonizing where the part is dipped and centriguged so only a thn coating of zinc remains - but it is very even and does not have most of the tolerance issues above. Next comes electroplating and zinc passivate. This has poor abrasion resistance and is only really suitable for parts not in direct contact with mud etc. The coating is very thin so the tolerance is pretty much unchanged. Powder coating is very tough and abrasion resistant (compared to paint), but once water gets underneath - it just wicks it all over the place and it very soon turns to a bag of rust. An improvement is zinc sprayed & powder coat. In this case, liquid metal is sprayed on to the surface of the part prior to powder coating. It gives a good surface for the plastic to adhere to and protects from rust even if the surface is broken. Trouble is, it's expensive. This is what my wing bars and winch bumper are coated in. The X-Brakes are coated in Zinc passivate which is not the best - but people associate it with bling and quality. I had some spin galvanised - and nobody wanted them! Two were returned as they wanted the yellow finish??? I sprayed them in yellow laquer (which looks similar) and sent them out again! There are five out there where the coating will last for ever! Any suspension components we make (two planned) will be spin galvanised. Hope this helps a bit. Si

Si, It's not always as simple as - if you don't speed, you don't have anything to worry about. There is often some ambiguity - which if one were dealing with a person with a radar gun, they might be able to resolve on the spot. Trouble seems to be that if you are photographed, you are guilty regardless of the circumstances. In my case, the light ahead was obscured by a white van who was overtaking at the time and at the point I passed under the light on my left, it was green - which I could prove based on the speed I was clocked at, and the distances involved. They said the light was yellow for 3.5 sec, which meant it was green for 0.5 sec after I lost sight of it. I got a stock letter which (correctly or not) stated that if I didn't put my hands up to it, I would get double the points and double the fine if I lost in court. I challenged the decision (within the 28 days) and received a letter saying that that the info I had provided did not change their opinion that I was guilty and that my evidence in fact identified me as the driver which was as good an admission of guilt as completing the NIP. You are guilty of the offence so please send your NIP and driving licence etc. Just for the record - I do not speed, nor wittingly cross red lights - which is why this is so gauling. Si

Dr Goon, The extra points come about because there are 3 for the offence, plus three for not returning the NIC. The fine is likewise the same for each. If you want to fight the case, you must not complete the NIC - so technically you get the points anyway whether you win or loose. I imagine that if you are found not guilty, the NIC was sent in error and you cannot thus be fined etc for not completing it. As soon as you complete and return the NIC, it is an admission of guilt. Si

I'd be wary of these kind of quick-fixes. I was going to fight a 'crossing a red light' fine, as both lights were obscured from view when I crossed the line. I took legal advice and they said that although I had a good case (I could prove it with the photographs they supplied), there is a big associated risk involved. If you fight it, your legal costs (if you loose) are likely to be in the order of a grand or more and you are likely to get double the fine and double the points. The solicitor said it's worth doing if these points would result in a ban (nothing to loose but money) - but since I had no points to start with, the best course of action is just to pay it and accept the points. I feel a bit angry that if you fight and loose, the penalties are higher than just accepting it (some legal system!) but wound up just accepting it. Just a thought. Si

Although it is a fine line between spam and just inforamtive comment and I appreciate how hard it is for the mods to make that call - I think in this case the reaction was OTT. I agree with the 20 post rule - but it's wrong to slag him off for deliberatly choosing to ignore it. Do you have proof he read and ignored it or is it just an assumption? Nigel, again its an assumption to say that this chap was not going to make any contribution in future. I think now it's likely he'll not bother coming back so perhaps you were right. I feel I have a stake in this forum. I want it to be a nice place for us, but also a welcoming place for strangers. If a stranger makes a mistake, they deserve a second chance - not this kind of abuse. Although the mods etc have resisted the option of our having any say in their appointments - it is still funded by us and should be policed by common consent. I don't want a forum like a police state. Si

I would go for a ZF + LT230, however you need a 1.41 or 1.6 :1 because of the gearing. I swapped my 1.1:1 for a 1.4:1 with the same setup - but wish I'd gone for a 1.6:1 now as 1.4 is still a bit over-geared. Low ratio is a bit high as well - but not too bad. Regards, Si

It's funny - I did the same! Some of the punches just looked silly frightening! Si

If you are a hundred yards away, and a bit short-sighted, it looks quite like 'Scorpion Club' Si

Slightly OT, but which are the high pressure In-Line Facet pumps suitable for EFI's? Si

I had a great day (including my mystery tour of East Anglia looking for LPG ). I'll post some piccies as soon as the lead for my camera makes it's whereabouts known! Si

Same toolkit I have! To tip for halfords, go in and ask for a trade card. You will need to take in a bit of headed paper or a business card (I'll leave it to your immagination how you might obtain something appropriate - given an Ink jet printer.....) proving that you are in the trade - and they give you one (not that kind of 'one' ). Gives a pretty decent discount on most things (except paint for some reason). Si

What is the chap in the background doing? Something rude me thinks? Si