simonr

Depending on the radio, it will either clear it or return to whatever the default was - something like 0000, 9999, 1234 etc most likely.

Sticking it in the freezer for 24h is likely to work. The code is stored in CMOS memory with a battery backup. The battery voltage drops with temperature, so you get to a point where the battery voltage is too low & the memory forgets it's content. Normally you can see a button / coin cell on the board. De-soldering it, waiting a few mins & re-soldering is generally quicker & more reliable, particularly on a vehicle intended to be used in low temperatures. They may have used a battery with better low temperature performance.

Square? I don't remember any square ones. Could you post a photograph of the X-Brake? The normal Defender / Disco / RR pads are round: https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=139 Series / Suzuki are more rectangular I suppose https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=65_1757&product_id=140 It is possible to find cheaper, Organic Pads (on eBay for example) but they're too soft & wear out very fast. It's a false economy.

That kind of sums up my job! 🙂

Sad, but true!

The hub did break off on that one - but there were several jumps where they survived. The original requirement was to use hydraulic cylinders for the jumping, such that it could jump repeatedly. Then the plot evolved such that it needed more traditional cannons firing slugs, but fitted to the outside of the vehicle where they would be visible and play a part in the action. At the very least from this video, you can see how much stuff we do for real, even if it gets tidied up with CG afterwards. Things like the ball smashing through the bus took a great deal of coordination - as well as building a drivable but pre-weakened bus. I suspect a lot of the stuff in this video and in the film, everyone will assume is CG, start to finish but the surprise to me has been how much of it is done for 'real' even if we use rigging to bend physics to our will sometimes.

I can finally reveal what this was for! If you go to 5m 20s.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VSK1P2Yh-k We ended up using Disco 2 axles - mainly because time was too short for Mikey's. I will use them in future though! Thanks for all the help above.

That's just the coolest thing I've seen this side of Christmas! 23mpg is around where I'd expect. I concluded a long time ago that lowish mpg can be good value in a car that's comfortable / fun to drive. At the time I had a 2 Door RR which I could get as low as 5mpg - but is still one of my favorite cars ever. Nothing has ever come close for comfort (and a good noise!). The Grenadier has gradually grown on me. I look forward to getting a go in one. The only reason I've not been pro-active about that is I decided I'd have a SWB next.

I fitted a booster to a 1986 110, long before the spring idea appeared. I was driving on the M25 every day & pushing the clutch again & again in slow traffic was getting boring! Mine was out of a scrap Austin Princess IIRC. It was difficult to bleed, but boy, what a difference! You could press the clutch with a feather! When the spring assist came along on later vehicles (and I wasn't commuting in the vehicle) I never fitted another one - but have often thought how fantastic it was! I would definitely buy one again if I needed assistance.

I have a home made Bluetooth GPS. Just an ESP32 with a U-BLOX Neo6 GPS. The Bluetooth is mapped as a serial device & the NMEA data just sent over the bluetooth serial. However, you can just buy them: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07M9CZYTD?psc=1&th=1&linkCode=gs2&tag=techtips-21 As far as the PC is concerned, it's just a serial GPS connected. It works remarkably well!

I think that might fall under the 'safety critical' clause?

I agree, they look good!

My conclusion was that if it turns, seals or is safety critical - I'll buy it from a main dealer. Anything else, I'll buy the best apparent quality I can afford. This has proven a good policy (unless you love tinkering with your truck & breaking down by the side of the road)

That's correct! I bought one of every (apparently) different UJ I could find, ranging from a 'county' part costing about £2 to a £40 genuine one from a main dealer. Most of them were very similar with marginal differences in the size of the rollers, designs of seals etc. The genuine main dealer one had rollers about twice the diameter of any of the others and very different seal construction - and was the only one with no grease nipple. I figured that if the seals are good, the grease won't escape so you don't need a way to add more - and the longevity of these seems to back that up. I think the addition of the grease nipple is almost an admission that the seals don't work! The 'G' suffix, OEM or 'Genuine Quality' ones were barely different from the cheapest. Only the ones bought from a main dealer were substantially different. The reason for the bigger rollers is to reduce wear and heating. A bigger roller doesn't have to rotate as much, for the same deflection of the joint. With my first 110, I drove it for about 50k miles without having to replace anything. It was only after I started replacing the genuine parts with patterned, the amount of maintenance went up & up until I was replacing a UJ, wheel bearing or seals maybe once a month. It suddenly ocurred to me why this might be. After the UJ investigation, I replaced everything with genuine - and never had to touch them again!

😉

I've printed quite a lot of car bits! Early prints, in ordinary (cheap) PLA generally melted / deformed due to the heat from the sun shining on them. I printed a few things in ABS, PETG, Polycarbonate - but the results are rarely as good as PLA. Then I discovered PolyMax PLA which has really good structural properties and doesn't seem to suffer as badly (barely at all) from deformation when used for exterior parts. Where I want something to be waterproof / very strong / rigid / high temperature - I soak it in fibreglass resin. Results have been really good. You need to use a resin which cures as slowly as possible to give it time to soak in properly. 2-part polycarbonate resin works well too. I printed this last week - to fit my dash-cam to the RR. I got tired of the suction cup on the windscreen falling off. The corrugated bit jams between the headlining & roof. The original nut that screwed the ball into the suction mount screws on to the threaded bit. Works pretty well. This was a printed electric bike drive & battery holder. The swing-arm with the motor was resin filled PLA to make it more rigid. Part of the dashboard on my DIY Electric Polaris General. I use the printer all the time - and I've never printed a 'mini yoda'!

Hedge cutters are a good source for high speed (so called bent-axis) Hydraulic motors. The pumps are often variable displacement too.

Do you need to bypass it? The pulley on the AC Compressor has a built-in clutch which disconnects the pump when the AC is off. (unless that's what's bust?). Leaving the belt running over the compressor will make a trivial difference to the overall efficiency of the engine, no more than the idler pulley.

There's a picture here & some instruction: https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/fitting-tow-bar-holder-lr020002-186897.html and also this picture found on line:

Just in case you're interested, you can transmit about 1kW per V on a V or PolyV belt - just as a rule of thumb. I can't remember where it came from - but has worked for me so far!

Based on Electric winches, the electrical input is about 5kW per motor. Series wound motors are hoplessly inefficient under load - so you are unlikely to see more than 2.5kW (3.35Hp) mechanical power into the which. So, the power you 'need' is likely to be less than 10Hp.

I think this is a good & worthwhile project, from an engineering perspective. If Jon can find a good solution, it has potential to deliver more than a Hydraulic* or PTO drive. * Hydraulic could deliver everything this could, using a variable displacement pump / motor. However, they tend to be expensive & hard to find second hand. Also, often, you find the pressure required for the swash plate actuator is higher than the motor input / output of the pump. It's straightforward to drive through a pressure multiplier - but it's an extra level of complexity. I quite like @Daan's idea of using planetary units from an auto-box with actuated brake bands - but this is a significant & high precision fabrication job, where Jon's seems to be more modular with limited modification / fabrication involved. I've used both reversing boxes & CVT's from Go Karts. I would bet someone makes one with both combined into a single 'lump'. Some of them are quite nicely made too. Even one using bushings instead of bearings would likely be OK as the duty cycle of a winch is very low compared to a Kart. Since the winch is worm-drive, it means that even if the transmission fails, the winch is unlikely to back-drive very fast, if at all.

This was the final version of the X-Anchor blade. It should at least give you an idea of the approximate size

Yes! The reason they fitted a DMF is because the engine produces a high 'impulse torque'. That is, an instantaneous burst of torque when a cylinder fires. The DMF just cushions that a bit so the clutch & the rest of the transmission sees the average torque of the engine. Although a solid flywheel seems like a great idea, one less thing to go wrong - in fact it's there to protect & prolong the life of the rest of the transmission. Remove it & you'll be changing gearboxes instead of flywheels. The juddering you can feel is because the DMF has seized up and is acting as a solid flywheel. The impulse torque is exceeding the grip of the clutch, allowing it to slip a little. I was going to buy one, but had the above conversation with a proper grown-up from the motor racing industry. He said they just lead to other, worse problems down the line & I should avoid it if I possibly can. So, not first-hand experience - but, in this case, I'm glad I don't have any!

When I had a S3 Lightweight, I made a 'bed' out of metal shelves (Dexion brand). At the front, it hooked on to the rail on the dashboard. Supported in the middle by the bulkhead and supported at the rear by the back bulkhead. I must have made something for it to clip on to on the rear bulkhead. 4 shelves in total gave a bed over 6'6" long and about 2' wide. They packed down fairly small, strapped to one of the wheel boxes in the back. I used it on numerous climbing trips to North Wales where the weather was never very Tent-friendly!