steve200TDi

where have you posted it in then, I can't find it!

It does take forever to start these engine once you've played with the fuel system, keep cranking and doing the priming cycle. You may want to connect some jump leads to another running vehicle just to stop your battery going flat. Steve

I've gone down the route of buying a set of the single cell batteries that the radio controlled car people use, a set of bars, a hefty soldering iron and making up my own battery pack. I even went for higher amp hour batteries too! It works and I can still charge it off the existing charger, although I dare say having a special voltage sensing charger could prolong the life even further. Steve

Yes, Dave, it appears quite difficult to search for said 10mm headed bolt! So far I have found part number: FB108101L to be M8 by 50mm long http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/416174/0/bolt_m8_x_50mm__flanged_head So its a bit longer! I will continue the search. Steve

I have standard mud flaps and have made them detachable! Check out my build thread in my signature for more pictures! Steve

Thanks

Ah yes, I see!

I think I know what you mean. Get a tube roller and bend a piece of tube the same radius as the arch and support it all the way along. Yep I could do that, will have a think over the winter. Steve

The final round is compete! What contrast from the previous sunny, dry round. This round over at Tilmanstone was in a quarry, no grass in sight and lots of mud! Dad towed the racer there in the new Range Rover and the 4.4 V8 diesel had no problem with towing duties There was good turn out and two of my friends also made the long journey over to Dover with their racers too! The first lap was slow as I was learning the course and there were a few points during the lap where I wasn't sure where to go, but after 3 laps I had the course nailed and could crack on! After the first lap the rear wheel arches were struggling to stay up. This was due to the shear weight of mud that had been collected and this was just after one lap! We cleaned, straightened and continued, but on the 4th lap the rear wheel arch bracket sheered (this was the one that got bent at the last round). So after some spannering, I removed said wheel arch and shortened the other side. After that I could crack on and get the laps done! I did slacken the kick down cable, but it's still not how I want it, so that will be added to the list over the winter to look at. The aftermath The quarry was a really good track, some nice flowing section and really good fun. A wash off and trailer loaded, it was my turn to tow it home using the 90 that has been remapped! It performed well keeping to 60 on the way home! Now the list of things to look at: - wipers (they don't do the job!) - washer jets - kick down cable - rear wheel arches (more support needed) - check the steering, box could do with tightening or replacing - have a look at some new bodywork! Steve

Yes, I do have a bag of tyre valves so I could look into re-inflating all my tyres without tubes and see how many holes they have! Steve

Haha, I was going to sat it looks a bit different! Steve

They all had tubes originally fitted, so I guess they may have punctures. It's true if I did repair them or get new tyres I could go tubeless as I don't know if there's much advantage been no tubes or tubes?! Steve

Yes, removing the valve just speeds up the inflation, takes less time! Right, so the tyre past is blue! And 5kg will last me a lifetime! So wheel on. Tyre paste applied to rim edge and tyre. Tyre pushed on to the rim. Using the flat tyre lever to ease the tyre over the rim. Now it's on. I didn't apply the paste to this sides tyre edge, because I would get covered in it while fitting the inner tube (which I nearly forgot!) Inner tube fitted and held in place by the valve tool and tyre paste applied. Tyre edge pushed on and tool fitted Making sure the tyre is in the well of the wheel start sliding the bar round. Then lift the bar up and tyre should pop in. I've noticed on some tyres I've had to lift the bar up to help the tyre on and slide the bar round and repeat. Now it's seated and I can inflate it! Job done! The blue paste seem to work well and does stay on the wheel/tyre and doesn't evaporate, so a good choice made! Steve

From previous experience, TD5s are picky on voltage, I think it needs voltage over approx 11.5V, so if you have over 12V it should be fine. I had less than 11.5 and you get wierd things going on on the dash with lots of warning lights illuminated. Once I had sorted out the battery voltage issue, it took a considerable amount of cranking but it did start. I think I did the purge cycle, but mainly had the battery hooked up to another running land rover and kept cranking. Try this with the original ECU and see if it works. I guess the next step would maybe get the ECU checked if you think it's faulty. Steve

Keep an eye on ebay and I'm sure something will turn up, like mine did! Tyre changing tomorrow, hopefully it's not raining and I'll get some progress pics up. Steve

Yes, bit of a tricky/awkward job. The inlet manifold is jammed up right on top of the starter. When I had to remove it as the wires were arcing on the inlet manifold I went ahead and removed the inlet and exhaust manifold. I removed the inlet completely but just pushed the exhaust manifold over to the wing leaving turbo/oil drain all still attached. Then you have good access, albeight you have to lie on top of the engine to get in there! Steve

Well, good you got it apart! Steve

Yep! I'll guess you'll update the build thread in due course, but did it all come apart ok? Steve

Haha, I think Fridge has some good suggestions!

Yes, the solution is to throw the tube away and revert back to the two lock nuts and lock washer. It's a pain as you need to torque the nut up and measure then measure the end float and then select the right spacer ring to go between the two bearings. It's not a crush tube so you need a whole stock of all the different sizes! Steve

Yes, I don't bother getting them balanced. I've had no trouble racing with them. It's so bumpy you don't need to worry! With road tyres, yes I would hav to get them balanced.

I think there's an oil seal in the swivel ball that bolts to the axle, so there maybe a bit of friction getting it off, but it should come out. The CV end of the shaft is all small, it's the diff end that is slightly larger. Steve

Yes, I read the same thing about it drying/evaporating before the tyre is fitted. Hopefully the stuff I've bought won't do that! I've bought this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TYRE-FITTING-CREAM-WITH-FREE-BRUSH-PREMIUM-LUB-PASTE-SOAP-TYRE-CHANGER-/272424866362?hash=item3f6dc9923a:g:k8kAAOSww5hZJqTk There's also a tyre wax you can buy which apparently works better on run flats which states that it does not dry out: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TYRE-FITTING-MOUNTING-WAX-WITH-FREE-BRUSH-PREMIUM-LUB-PASTE-SOAP-TYRE-/272424864608?epid=698982179&hash=item3f6dc98b60:g:KPEAAOSwfpVZJqMR I'll report back this week!

Thanks Mike, yes it did pop up on my searches. I think just having the wheel bolted/clamped down makes it so much easier. Then having the right tyre lever (like you have and the one that came with mine) makes it easier still. My tyre past/lube should come on Monday so I can get some tyres fitted next week and see how easy I can make it! Steve

We might need a picture as I'm confused. You say you've stripped the end down to the axle tube and then you say you don't think the swivel housing will go over the half shaft. So you still have a bit of halfshaft in the diff and in the swivel housing assembly. If you split the swivel housing assmebly by tacking the swivel seal retainer off, the swivel seal and the two swivel bearings you will be able to access the CV/half shaft and both will slide out. Of course you will need to take the circlip off the drive flange end under the rubber cap! Steve