steve200TDi

The part of the seal you can see from the outside of the vehicle has a small groove contour on it. This should be a datum of how the seal sits/fits. Steve

Here's is another sketch of the windscreen seal as a cut through. Hope this helps Steve

approx 6mm As miketomcat has drawn.......Someone else had the same issue (and me) trying to work this out. There's a thitd lip that a filler and doesn't go around the window or frame. Steve

Here's when I did mine! Steve

I believe James has thought about this! Steve

Yes, I bought a meter of this: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/rubber-in-tank-fuel-hose-by-cohline-per-metre-2190-0615 Regarding the return line, if it doesn't already have a tube that goes to the bottom of the tank then I shouldn't worry. The most important part is to get unaerated fuel to the engine! Steve

That looks like it was at one of John Morgans site in West Sussex! Steve

The motor is only held in by two long bolts. However there are tinny dowels it sits on or at least one alignment pin as well as RTV as you say. The brake assembly (make sure you've clamped to two halfs with the clicky middle bit together as all the ball bearings will fall out!) should just slide off, it maybe a bit tight. Steve

That would make sense then as the LT77's gear stick lock is 'cranked' probably to account for it being nearer!

But the vehicle would then still be in gear if you had the lock on...... Steve

I think it's just the physical gearstick gate pattern. Looking at the instructions on Foundary4x4.co.uk, both locks are fitted when the gearbox is in 5th and the transfer box is in High ratio. So I guess there maybe different dimensions between the two boxes. When I fitted my centre dash in my 90 I had to bend the gearstick and so I had to drill a new hole in the lock for the two halves to twist/slide/run in (that'll make sense when you see the kit). So basically there is room for adjustment if you can visualise how the lock works. Hope this helps Steve P.S. You may need the R380 version, but I don't know if a LT77 top housing would change the layout or distance from the HI/Lo lever. Thinking about it now it could just be the distance between the two levers that determines which lock you need?

PC chat: I've heard of this virtual machine business, but don't really know the first thing about it or where to start. At the moment, the PC works fine and meets my needs, but I appreciate that it may not last forever, so future proofing may help. I may need to sort my laptop out first before doing that depending on virtual machine requirements. Racer news: I stripped the shifter down mainly to remove the gate plate and to see how it comes apart. It's very simple in construction. I started the shifter linkage. So once that is done and I've made a bracket to support and hold the cable I can properly test out my new gate plate to see if I have the measurements right. Steve

Nope! It's completely stand alone!

Oh yes, sorry....XP! Steve

It was certainly a calm and sensible discussion.....

I have 1:1 scale drawings to offer up to the gearbox and shifter. The gearbox linkage is just a guess regarding raduis, but the gate plate should hopefully be close as I've done a lot of measuring and calculating to produce that drawing! Oh yes........and good old Windows 98! Steve

Yes! I think we had a level discussion on another thread about what level to get!

I had a quick play on solid works today. Using the dimensions from the gearbox and shifter, I've come up with a new shifter plate. I'll probably print a cardboard copy and fit it all to the gearbox to check shift points etc before either getting it laser cut or I'll get the drill and file out! Steve

Yes, I've seen that one a couple of times. So I bought it! Looks better in the flesh, as it has come with the cable! It has quite a bit of aluminium corrosion, but that can be sorted easily by some wiring brushing and painting. The gate plates are available to buy (in america) seperately depending on your gearbox layout, but I'll be making my own. So I've measured from P to 3 (on this shifter) the length the cable moves, so I have the distance or span. I can then work out the length of the shift linkage needs to be on my gearbox. Lets brake out my new level/angle gauge! So starting from P and recording the angle of every position finishing at 3, I was able to working out the length of linkage I needed! 71.54mm long, across 60 degrees. The end of the cable has a quick release ball joint linkage, so I;ll clean this up and hopefully use it or I may opt for a rose joint. This is as far as I've got. I will need to do some more maths to make the gate plate for the shifter and also decide what gate I'm having! Steve

Hi, I've found an Art Carr shift on ebay and so I'm doing my research into aftermarket shifters. From the review videos I've seen, they are simple in construction and built for off road use. What I'm wanting to find are photos of an install, the cables, the brackets. I think its just a question of designing a bracket for the gearbox that gives the right throw so that it lines up with the shift points of the shifter. The next question is, is a 6 point shift the same as a 7 point shifter? As I've found this on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-kit-Car-Arttcar-Gear-Shifter/283913621895?hash=item421a921187:g:DBEAAOSwZCBd840o It only has P, N, R, 3, 2, 1 and I need a D or 4. If its just a case of making a new gate up with 7 positions then I'm willing to have a play and see if I can get it to work. I may have to buy a cable, so that will be another thing to sort too! Steve

It was more the gate layout, so i could shift without going into reverse or neutral accidently. But yes, thanks Mike for the order, it appears not to have D and so depending on how it is built I don't know if it can be modified and whether it has the shift cable with it.... Steve

I found this on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-kit-Car-Arttcar-Gear-Shifter/283709093725?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I've asked for a few more photos, but it could be a candidate for a new shift for the racer. I can't quite see the shift gate pattern, so am waiting on some photos. Steve

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/automotive/pullers-hydraulic/hydraulic-pullers-2-and-3-jaw-kits/f/4942?query=sykes pickavant puller I just have the 2 legged version with the hydraulic Sykes Pickavant hydraulic puller part. It's stood the test of time as this was my granddads and goodness know how long he had before i had! It prooves old tools last! I've removed plenty of drop arms with it and susspension bushes too! As for circlip pliers, @Anderzander has hit the nail on the head! Steve Just had a quick look on ebay and this one looks like what I've got. The jaws or legs are self tightening as you apply force. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sykes-Pickavant-No-150000-Hydraulic-Ram-Puller/254608972642?hash=item3b47e09b62:g:njMAAOSwZtpezSHe

I may not of touched the racer in lockdown, but I certainly have been thinking and dreaming about what I'm going to be doing once I can get over there! @msb_axo sent over two defender td5 wiper boxes and arms. So along with the one that @GBMUD has been keeping safe, I have a full set to swap out! I saw swap out, it will involve some cutting, grinding and welding, but thats ok, I'm yearning for a bit of that! I just need some nuts to hold the wiper arms on! Regarding gearing, I have a 1.6 transfer box to fit, but I'm still reluctant as a borg warner is much nicer for racing. I would also need to make new mounts for it and fit new propshafts as they are slightly different lengths. I've know for a while that Tomcat Motorsport make a smaller gear for the borg warner to change it from 1.2 to 1.38, but they are either unobtainable or a special order. I heard on the grape vine a couple of weeks ago that there maybe 3 gears up for grabs..... So this landed on the mat the other day! So that's another job to add to the list! The existing chain is shortened by a couple of links and then tig welded back together. Steve

You haven't said what engine you have! Judging my the lights flickering it could be TD5, they need at least 11.5 to 11.8 volts to do anything. Under that they'll just click and flash! Steve