steve200TDi

A couple of handy tips here: Steve

And that is Mannington! Is it with the Shire LRC. I know exactly where that bit is ....right down the bottom, quite dug out for some axle twisting! Steve

I think we need a build thread! Steve

The straight air die grinder with a burr is best for removing material, say if you're scalloping/fish-mouthing a steel tube. The 90 degree die grinder with the sanding flap wheels are good for de-burring, smoothing off metal. I have the Draper storm force die grinder in straight and 90 degree: https://www.toolstation.com/draper-storm-force-65130-air-mini-die-grinder/p60965?store=T2&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAiAudD_BRBXEiwAudakX7LO-6CK3-n5wbMVbd8xPQRrYaHO1TUe1htnvLgwAaaW2eufUtVhJBoC7HkQAvD_BwE They have been good with the amount of use I have given them. I did buy a cut off wheel from the same range, but it seems to need a hell of a lot more air to actually cut anything, so that has sat on the shelf and not used. I suspect I will need to upgrade my air lines and fitting to high output ones as I would hope my air compressor is man enough. The Makita straight die grinder you link too would be perfect for enlarging holes and as you say doesn't tether you to the workshop! And I've also had good experience with Powertool world! Quick delivery! Steve

Thanks for the write up, it looks a neat solution. Steve

I did! It is embossed Aluminium like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GII-G2-Embossed-Aluminium-Heat-Shield-Material-Simgle-Layer-Sheet-Exclusive-NEW-/152936424018#:~:text=BSTFLEX embossed aluminum heat shield,has a low emissive rate. Steve

Depending on if you can access the outside of the square tube on the trailer, you could drill a hole though the tube and the square tube of the container body location peg and put a pin through the whole lot, like a lynch pin or something? Steve

It's been a different year for me. I was about to get the 90 serviced and back on the road for MOT when lock down occured and so it's been sorned ever since. I've done a bit of work on my Dad's land rover, but beings it's all at my parents house I have had limited opportunities and now we're back in lock down. I've done a few little bits on the racer, but that's all. I started doing a bit of wood work, as I can do that at home, and getting out in the countryside going for more walks around where I live. That's been nice and we went camping for the first time with my daughter and she loved it! We had just put our house on the market to find somewhere bigger with a garage and larger garden when a round of reduntancies popped up. I had been lucky to be able to work throughout all of lockdown and so we took the house off fearing the worst. Luckily I made it through! So next year we're looking forward to moving house, going camping and hopefully get some land rovers back on the road, fingers crossed I can at least do one of those! Steve

I too am in Tier 4, with lots of enthusiasm to get stuff done, but it's all at my parents house! When this all clears up, I think I'll be having a 6 month holiday at my parents to get it all done! Mike - are you always moving?! That is very true!

Haha, I thought people would enjoy that episode! I have made a new thread in the video section here: Steve

@mickeyw I was also thinking if I had a higher ah battery, say a 5ah, would that give the grinder, impact driver etc some more ooomff! Can anyone test this? Of does it just last longer? I read somewhere that the higher ah batteries have more cells... Steve

Yes, please do start a build thread, that looks an excellent idea! Steve

I have been using my cheap makita 1/2 inpact wrench at work. I've been undoing and tightening up screws on body panels, but undoing some tightish bolts and sthere's was nothing it couldn't do. Admittedly there were no wheel nuts, so I can't comment on tight things, but I did think about doing a test on bolts torqued up to gradually increasing torques and see what it could undo, so I'll report back on that. Mine has the gradual torque increase on tightening and a pulse feature too. I don't think you can buy a rubbish fake, so any cheap one should be ok. I did see that some of the 1/2 impact guns have a 1/4 hex in the middle for screw driver bits to fit in. Mine doesn't have this and so I've bought a 1/2 to 1/4 hex adapter. Steve

These type of shifters are common in america with off roading and drag racing, amongst other things. This one is an Art Carr shifter, another make is Winters. Steve

I did end up buying this shifter. You can follow my progress here:

I made the gearbox linkage and then started on the cable support bracket. I'll obviously be trimming it down to make it more bracket shaped, but I just needed something to get it in the right position. I also made a short adapter from the imperial UNF selector cable to M6 quick release ball joint. A little quick job on the lathe made this, I filed down some flats so I could secure it. I'm still impressed by the simplicity of this shifter with the ball detents to go left to right. The CAD design I drew for the shifter plate didn't quite line up and so I had to do manual CAD MAD (cardboard Metal Aided Design) using a file! This now works and can be drawn in CAD or manually drawn on some stainless steel for the shifter plate. We're getting there slowly, but winter and this clod weather is slowing things down somewhat! Steve

Bit of a confusing website! It doesn't really tell you what power and torque the kit produces?!....

I've had good success with Auto Marine Diesel in Hove, just along from Shoreham-By-Sea. 2 St Leonard's Rd, Hove BN3 4QR Tel: 01273 415296 Steve

I did also see that there's a minimum distance that the brake light needs to be away from the fog light. A distance of 100 mm between the light-emitting surfaces of the lamps when viewed in a direction parallel to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle Steve

Have a look here: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/contents/made This is what I used when I made my rear winch bumper and moved the fog lights and fitted new brake/side/indicator units. Steve

Did this ever get finished? I see @Powerslave hasn't visited for a couple of years, but does anyone else know? Steve

As Blanco says, we need the full story! Have you also had injector problems? If I were to do a head gasket swap, I would remove the injectors as when you remove the cylinder head the injectors protrude from the gas face very slightly and can easily get knocked. For instance you can't put the cylinder head on the bench gas face down as you damage the injectors. It's also a heavy lump and so you want to remove it and put it down quickly. It'll also make it lighter too! Replace the dowels for metal ones when you do it! Steve

Oh yes, I've found that!! Steve

The threaded collar is on the chuck itself on mine and yes, it is for removal purposes. Mines a J33 taper. I'll be interested in measurements of the start and end of that taper to compare as I'm pretty sure I have a J33, but you never know! Steve

Interesting! I was looking at mine the other day, as I wanted a keyless check. On doing some research I found that my existing keyed chuck was held in place by a Jacobs taper and a threaded collar to hold it in place. I could not find a keyless check with a threaded collar and so now I'm just going to buy a new chuck key as that was the only thing that was wrong with mine! Has yours sheared or just fallen out? I read online that the taper should be sufficient for dilling holes but apllying side loading could see it pop out. Steve