steve200TDi

Oh yes, saw that! I know what you mean, I did a google. I think the windscreen has more of a rake on those blitz body things, so I think this is more tomcat! Steve

I found this too! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-RALLY-CAR-RACER-OFFROAD/202919866357?hash=item2f3ef76ff5:g:xDIAAOSwJUBd3W0j

Please do continue!.........with a link and pictures! 😃

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/comp-safari-88-ALRC-car/264665760137?hash=item3d9f4f0189:g:vwoAAOSwP2Zea3E9 This is definitely interesting! I remember looking at the build thread here: (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/alrc-project.160626/ The chassis and roll cage were made from scratch! As well as most other stuff! Steve

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Chassis-Racing-Chassis-comp-safari-off-road-trail/153854894042?hash=item23d2775fda:g:7H4AAOSwYY1eYXW1 Interesting...... A king cab I presume when you add a bulkhead and doors to the half sized suicide doors! And on a tube chassis!

I had a weird electrical issue on my TD5 90 and that was due to a badly crimped main feed wire like yours which had turned green. I would trim back to clean bare wire and re crimp as that's probably not helping. Steve

Not yet! We need to do the engine mounts too and so we were contemplating on taking the exhaust off, but it won't be an easy task I don't think. Hopefully it'll warm up a bit soon and I can get back on it. My Dad's enthusiasm needs a top up!! Steve

I'm still trying to sort this. i phoned a local auto box specialist today which recommended undoing the flex plate bolt to look at the blocks they go into on the torque converter - these could be cracked where they are welded on. Worth a look I suppose. I've also email Ashcrofts, so awaiting there feedback. I've also attached a short video clip of the noise! VID-20200212-WA0006[1].mp4

If you say that you have drive with the difflock selected and none without, that would point to the centre diff being damaged I think. You might want to check the hole drive train by jacking a wheel up and checking for noises when you spin a wheel. Steve

A bit late, as you've already decided and bought something! I've had good success with this type: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/28024256266?iid=262382065115&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=262382065115&targetid=856772926721&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045812&poi=&campaignid=6619152134&mkgroupid=88678400376&rlsatarget=pla-856772926721&abcId=1140496&merchantid=7280834&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhNauw7zH5wIVA4jVCh2cbwx-EAQYAyABEgLO2vD_BwE I say this type, as I think the ones I used/borrowed were Snap-On. Steve

Very nice! I've always wanted to watch or have a go at some of the rallies up north, The scottish hill borders rally in particular, but being they're in Scotland and I'm in Kent, it's all a bit far away!! Steve

Is the fuel pump noisy? Normally things to check are the injector seals , the fuel pump and the injector loom. Your you tube links haven't worked. Did you copy the whole address from the top in the address bar? Steve

I've bought a second hand defender electric window mechanism and the panel it bolts too. I'm yet to fit it, but when I do, I will make and adjust brackets where needed. Steve

Having studied and reread the original post I have a couple of questions: - If you remove the tensioning bracket/arm and just tighten up the two lower bolts (my understanding is that one has a sliding sleeve in the alternator and the other clamps up to a machined surface) does the pulley line up better or is at least parallel. I thought the tensioning bracket/arm may be skewing it slightly. If it is indeed parallel then you know you just need that extra triangular plate and you should be sorted. Steve

You would think the chassis suppliers would sell them separately, but I've just had a quick look on Richards chassis website and there doesn't seem to be an option. Steve

Good progress, it's beginning to take shape now! You just got to love a build thread, whether it's a car, building or anything else!! Steve

When you hit reply on a post it'll bring up a box (like I've attached) and you hit the choose file below where you're typing, it'll be high lighted in blue. Then once it's uploaded, you can press the '+' to add it into the text, like here: And then you can carry on typing! Hope this helps! Steve

We (I!) would also like to see your comp safari racer!! Regards Steve (a fellow comp safari racer!)

Would this be the one? https://www.blocklayer.com/pipe-notching.aspx I googled tube notching calculator! Steve

I think the yellow arrow is a Parrot hands free control unit. Steve

One brand I know of is oetiker clip. Most of these style clips need a special tool to fit them as you crush a tab to clamp it on hence why they are only really single use. The factory would use an electronic tool to apply the same force to tighten the clamp. Jubilee clips would work well as at least you know they are tight! Steve

I thought those clamps were single use, but you may be able to remove and refit them, but it's going to be fiddly! You could use jubilee clips as an alternative. For ease repair you could remove the cooler entirely so you can have a look at it on the bench. Steve

Another avenue to pursue! I'll certainly be having a look at the oil and in through the filler hole and probably removing the diffs too! Thanks Steve

Ok, thanks Bowie, will do!

An update on this. Yesterday I took the lower cover plate off of the auto box to expose the internal flywheel, torque converter, flex plate. I also removed the little inspection hole cover plate too. On rotating the engine it all looks perfect; no oil, no cracks, no noises, nothing! So I find it hard to believe something can be making a noise in there! So the plan going forward: - Replace engine mounts - as they need doing! - Inspect and service starter motor - I did think that if the starter motor gear doesn't return fully then it could catch and make a noise. I'm not entirely sure how it works, will have a look at a spare in the shed, but it wouldn't hurt to remove and inspect anyway. Hopefully I can do both of those without removing the exhaust, but we'll see! Then it'll be a test drive/use and see if the noise comes back. If it does, I'll be onto inspecting the diffs! Steve