steve200TDi

I've been reading this and thought this video may be of interest! There's a segment on sandblasting and the media they use. Obviously you've all been keeping up to date with the goings on at RetroPower! Steve

A photo may help! As for the connection up the reservoir, this is not pressurised and so a pipe can be made to fit, I think mine is jubilee clipped on. Regards Steve

Sure! It's this place: https://www.used-machine-tools-uk.com/ Over in Ford on the Sussex coast, I popped in there and asked and they had a rumage in their warehouse. He was very helpful. Steve

Ever since I got my bench top 10 tonne hydraulic press I wanted to make a folder for it. I've seen the kits you can buy and weld together yourself (https://www.stakesys.co.uk/review/product/list/id/972/category/76/), but I had another idea! I was recommended by a friend about a second hand tools company that may have tooling for sale. Specifically press brake tooling. A pointy top part that goes into a V bloke to fold steel. I was then the proud owner of 12 inches of press brake tooling, a pointy bit and a bog block with multiple V's or different sizes and angles. My idea was to make an attachment to mount the pointy bit onto the end of the press. So I had my first project for my newly acquired lathe! I had sorted the tooling out and adjusted it to the right height. It's still not perfect, I'm looking at a new quick change tool post set up, hopefully second hand on ebay! With a chunk of steel in the lathe I was ready to make up a longer copy of what was in the end of my press. So it turned into this! Which was a copy of this. Don't worry, the groove that the grub screw goes in does not need to be that wide, so I made it narrower on my part. Now it was time to figure out how I was going to attach this to the press brake tooling blade. After more complicated ideas, I decided to test drill the tooling to see if it was drillable.......It was! So I nice thick piece of steel was employed to mount the tooling too and I would need to make a slot in the turned up piece. In the bandsaw it goes. Then the pillar drill! And now I have this! Which slots over this. I drilled 4 holes through the tooling and plate and I was ready to weld them together. A bit of weld prep. And they were ready to weld together. I made sure the press end was parallel/at 90 degrees to the metal strip. And job down! All bolted together. And fitted to my press, along with the v block underneath. It even works too!

The one piece lift up handle doors with wind down windows use these strikers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DOOR-LOCK-STRIKER-PLATE-PART-MUC2959/254421189815?epid=2295453160&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3b3caf44b7:g:0QEAAOSwi1pbs3Ll&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%2B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMT%2BxhDNapr4tFCC9oqz5Nq8xUKzYPmCCMJeC34HLIRlW%2F1mkJLM5kBAWdmJrgysuv33IsXu4k818VR8C3wpSuKCXIgq8Rb3oO2s9%2FaGBSbtwW9AuWUaj8JrdzrhzXSNlW9Pmn%2FTREQn2OFHYFRB2ffwOw4txmjWYG%2BkecDF%2F8kAHXbzar5xJ7M4damKNdRpY4xbv7nLlD4BEZdQckkmQxIdfMyvqq6cxs894gnf6mTZQ1qjEVDY1okMt52aULkAN9FFPm%2Bw%2Fgsbhi49%2FeNa5DL2s7QhuPbdL3lJ2p3kGmWiNOezEcxYi2xXIezyOJMH0t9JDA%2Fwnk0Oelbp8ivSzt3aVbWLKtN%2FBPOWQvRnd9Iic%2Fk8HLMRy%2BcUpEaR2yNweurEOwHW9rVkMRJ0qeEj2svvxxIXBOjVd%2BnorTMYNZyn3HYSQKKTnKQMQGUDcdsmtrMuM3ycAKWZkaryuZBKyZPUoEDSJD3OxKmC5F%2BCrQor8u6Pv9DDypbRFBmObn5%2F20cetWwaG3Irg7Q5zqcUcbpUOVVbl4qkXNmSGZDJyVL4oGMzo%2FnB5MT7DXUZJGnSzMmyb1scccPNmlD0DkyPqwDrv8%2BVpJth0Pa1en9GRpM1lKL5diZ6FM6in%2F%2Bv%2BdrtRvcd63X1gEoxfrdkHNOJkfjauKocfP9RDuTI8YHH0g7YnN71VQ2TEYT77j2Lux4KtLqd70AF9LgdGWuxd4Ix2raFsH8uNCJBygEFumN7XXUvQ%2BRBlCo1rMu%2Bq9IFaiYD%2BVQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A2544211898150336d866f42d4a2b8094e23159bb9b69|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 I managed to get hold of a second hand set at newbury for much less! The two piece series doors uses different strikers https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/252192413279?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=252192413279&targetid=939009505666&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045812&poi=&campaignid=10199631325&mkgroupid=103626356284&rlsatarget=pla-939009505666&abcId=1145987&merchantid=101775611&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIstKyspms7AIVAe7mCh0Ibg9BEAQYASABEgJmEfD_BwE Steve

Well, maybe, but if with the wipers removed and you switch them on the spindles are moving anti-clockwise and clockwise then you know the wiper mechanicals are working. If the park switch is working too then I don't see why you can't move your wipers to the desired position and it should work fine! Steve

The third way is to remove the wiper arm from the spindle and adjust on the splines to your desired park position! Steve

I guess you fit a hex shaped rivnut in to those hex shaped holes? Something like this: https://www.rivetsonline.com/steel-rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts/half-hex-body-large-flange-steel-rivet-nuts But that's an american website! Steve

You might need this: https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/defender-puma-viscous-fan-pulley-spanner/ But also try googling it! https://www.google.com/search?q=2.4+puma+engine+viscous+fan+removal&source=lmns&bih=789&biw=1440&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB741GB741&hl=en-US&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjYl_j88onsAhUG_hoKHbdDDAoQ_AUoAHoECAEQAA Steve

Oooow a metal folder! I like a tool build! This might need to be moved to its own thread for all to see! Steve

I thought clutch alignment tools are universal like these: https://www.google.com/search?q=clutch+alignment+tool&oq=clutch+alignment+&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l6.5171j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Video here: But When I've done it, I've just done it by eye. Ok, I may have had to do a bit more wiggling to get the gearbox mated to the engine, but it was definitely doable and saves buying another tool you wont use very often. Steve

Lower by 2-3 what's? It could be your injector copper washers. I think white smoke refers to coolant loss, as blue smoke is oil and could relate to valve stem oil seals. Steve

Unfortunately North Off road have gone out of business, but not from poor workmanship! I too bought a front windscreen hoop and an internal cross from Whitbread and did the rest myself. Regards Steve

Excellent, glad you're sorted it! Steve

Hmm, this may help: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic45172.html Sounds like there may be a circlip type arrangement and with a bit of for the diff and drive shaft can be forced apart allowing the clip to be pushed back into a groove and the two coming apart........maybe Steve

Looks nice and robust, keep the updates coming! Steve

I have just found this from the Full Fat Range Rover forum: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5al230KXbSyckM0cERBcXZyY00/view From this thread: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic17623.html On page 329 it says quote 'The differential unit is secured to the engine sump with 4 bolts.' Have you removed the drive shafts? Steve P.S. More info here too: http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/front-differential-repair-i-did-it-134360.html?highlight=Front+diff+removal

Maybe a picture might help. Then you can add that in your build thread once we've helped you remove the diff! Steve

It does all sound rather interesting, so it may happen in the future! On the subject of computers, I was rather chuffed I managed to order and fit a new battery to my laptop, so now it doesn't have to be permanently plugged in at the wall!! I'm now looking at a larger SSD and more ram! Right, I have done a tiny bit more on the racer! I now have steering which is now 5/8th to 2/3rds of a turn quicker! Now I can remake the steering guard and make a stronger drag link. The shifter is progressing too. I just need to find a supplier for the little horse shoe/omega/ohm shaped bracket which holds the shifter cable in place. There's a little groove it sits in to stop the cable sliding forwards and backwards. Any help appreciated! Steve

Sorry Western! 2016 Range Rover Sport. Thanks Steve

Hi, I'm after the plastic insert that fits into the spare wheel in the boot which allows the long threaded rod to hold the wheel secure. I've found this, but I wanted to see what it would cost new if possible. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/123998954671?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=123998954671&targetid=910259638509&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045135&poi=&campaignid=10195651178&mkgroupid=107296207892&rlsatarget=pla-910259638509&abcId=1145987&merchantid=6995734&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzIest53y6gIVku5RCh3T2wD5EAQYASABEgIvSPD_BwE Thanks Steve

A generic two legged puller will fit both and be more use on other things over a specific land rover puller. Steve

The part of the seal you can see from the outside of the vehicle has a small groove contour on it. This should be a datum of how the seal sits/fits. Steve

Here's is another sketch of the windscreen seal as a cut through. Hope this helps Steve

approx 6mm As miketomcat has drawn.......Someone else had the same issue (and me) trying to work this out. There's a thitd lip that a filler and doesn't go around the window or frame. Steve