jai_landrover

Sals and rover rear axle flanges are the same. Red winches sell a caliper bracket set for £50 a pair

Stub axle pcd is the same front to rear as far as I'm aware

Front axle flange is bigger dia than the rear isn't it? I seem to remember playing with this. I'm just sorting the rear 80 inch Salisbury axle with series III stub axles and defender drum brakes hubs. You need to play with spacing if I remember rightly to get the caliper Central over the disk if you use a front disk brake early hub.

As for the RH side shaft I'm pretty sure when I looked At it before I was certain I Could machine down a Kam type shaft with the longer sines although if you can buy stage 1 off the shelf now then that's the way to go especially If they can be 300m

From hub out will all be defender and rostyles fit as std. Rear hubs I will be using on the rear may fit longer studs in front hubs for the front of use more rear drum brakes hubs. Front end defender cvs so the front is all good minus maybe a few mm where the cv needs to sit inboard of the larger chrome balls. If this pulls the half shaft inboard too much I can machine off a drive member to make the difference up. The only reason for the early 90/110 hubs on The back is so the wheels fit as they are mighty tight to the drive members. The series item 6 bolt drive members and are usually round flanges. People used to Beat the centres out but it's a bodge. Even the older 6 lug type will foul the inside of the wheel rim as the wheel fits over the 5 lug drive members.

A super quick look will give the swivel housing a good clean tomorrow evening. Drill out the broken bolt that holds on the seal retaining ring. I have a good serviceable pair of balls (oh err)! Hopefully by the end of the week we may have one side built up. Removing the series IIA rear stubs n hubs and replacing them with late series III stubs and defender hubs so I can fit Rostyle rims to the back. Eventually when the front end is sorted the front can also run Rostyle rims but with spun centres. Until then spun disco rims will do. Painted a Rostyle rim ready to take some new 205 diamonds I picked up.

I've hav had numax from Tanya batteries for 7 years now twin setup. Cannot fault them 1000cca @ 0degc and can't remember if they were 95a or 110a? Will check later on. They have not been treated nicely at all and have survived well.

Had it installed in my 90 for 8 years in two different axles And yes on and off the throttle you can tighten up or not around corners. If you stomp mid corner you expect or should expect the back end to break loose. They do have their kwerks and much fun can be had messing about. But ultimately the driver is responsible for driving in a safe responsible manner. When it snowed a couple of years back I broke a front shaft (being a tit) dis engaged the 90's FWH and carried on trialling (was only tyro for the younguns) with the Detroit in the back it was most fun going through canes sideways. We all tit about but a Detroit isn't to be scared of. It's not nice characteristics however it is livable.

That's not a powerful engine just poor driving!

Maybe a cheap and very cheerful solution? Why not rip apart a cheap tyre digi guage. I suspect they will fail ale ventilate not being full duty cycle items but worth a play. I suspect the hardest part would be fitting a suitable line to the actual fitting. Or I guess you could just extend the wires so that the pressure side of it stays engine side and you only have the display or electronics dash side. I guess you could extend the sender and pressure to bulkhead. But for £5 and some time may be worth a shout. Failing that a small guage like you get in small tyre pumps mounted in your own housing. I quite like the digital look myself

Cheers Soren I know I saw some that were golden in coating marketed as HD but couldn't remember who. Some reason I thought Kam or early Ashcroft but this was some years ago

I actually have a Q regarding shafts probably for Nige who was it that sold HD shafts that we're golden in colour kind of anodised type coating? I seem to think they were really really old Kam but could be so wrong. I have had a pair of Salisbury rear ones before which were golden. I picked up one at Newbury sales rear golden in colour. A genuine sals def old rear long shaft and a short def old shaft. Best buy goes to 24-23 spline short front bargain at £5! Any info on the golden coated shaft appreciated. Will get in this conversion ASAP get the pub night out the way this evening and crack on swapping some tyres on the tyre machine tomorrow get these wee 205 onto some Rostyle rims.

Santana swivel housings if all other dimensions are of series origin would make for a cheap and easy disk brake setup should defender hubs and fiat/pug calipers work

Sold some stuff, brought a mud dash cover for £2. Brought some 24 spine half shafts various Salisbury and picked up a 24/23 front shaft for £5. Had the seller try and palm me off with a second apparently it 24/32 as its other half of the pair. I was surprised (I had lots of tat old small bits. Some New alternators and some 101 and 2B wheel steps ) but the sheer amount of old rubbish. Diffs covered in rust up for £30 and people paid money for them. amazes me what gets sold sometimes.J

Check out comp safari boys of old. 1980's 1990's the older leaf spring vehicles can be very good. For this vintage. Messing about on the road is the same as asking a boy racer if his 1.0 corsa is fast and handles well. We will be having a go in the 80 inch as it will be log booked it speed events. I don't suspect it will be any good being 80 bit aid a nasty thing to drive. I had parabolic springs but sold them in favour of std leafs. Why? Because that can be tuned a lot easier. Mine are too soft for speed events but I'm sure adding a few more leafs and the added damping of the multi leaf springs doubled with decent shocks there should be no problem handling wise. This is a bit off your topic as comp Safari is offroad. You asked for road handling. Well if it's built right straight and the front axle is orientated correctly it should drive well people slag off older landies but many have not driven one that's absolutly sorted and well maintained. I know a few people that have taken part in rally's and even hill climbed Kop hill in an 88 they all handled well. I think the Kop hill guy used just decent gas shocks and everything else was absolutely std 88 truck cab.

Lt230 is actually a very strong unit but worth rebuilding one for the job. There are plenty of horror stories but I suspect they could have been old ones on their last legs Or abused slamming into low box at speed. Treat anything like that and your asking for trouble. Axles, well LR are not known for their strength. If it was me I'd go for a Salisbury or Dana rear end which (I'm awaiting an email weather I can get 30 spline parts for my Detroit) but can quite easily be upgraded For larger shafts. A bit of research into ratio options throws up loads of options and using yank shaft supplier with some mixing and matching you can get a seriously strong axle. Front end, it's up to you part of me says keep rover for steering geometry and ease but you are limited to a rover unit pegged and uprated it will be alright but limitations are 24 spline Ashcroft shafts and cv's. Other options are Toy stuff but means messing with steering and brackets and suchlike. I don't suspect you will get much change from £3000 for axle setup.

Chrome balls turned up today but getting stuff ready for Newbury so will have to wait until after the weekend

Under the cam

Mo if it helps at all I have an engine in the lockup 200 disco happy to pull it off for you to look see.

Ow Mo it's one of those things you want to find and get out the engine even tho it'll no doubt probably be just fine. I think it would bug me so much I would do an oil and filter change and if I couldn't get it out with a magnet from the sump drain bung. I would probably drop the sump (nasty dirty job, did one last month on a 300 disco) but for peace of mind sake and to stop that little constant devil on my shoulder shouting at me. Mechanical pump all the way fit and forget.

the stub axle I intend to use is early defender because firstly strength plus I wish to use early defender hubs 5 bolt drive members so I can run Rostyle rims without damaging the rims. The stub axle must be a good fit in the swivel housing and the 90 stub axle flange is a slightly larger diameter than the series flange so I have machined the flange down literally a very small amount to fit snugly in the series swivel housing. In above pics. I have fitted the Early defender CV's through the series swivel housing just a. It's not a tight fit but it just goes through with a wiggle. I have tried this with the shaft on just to make sure.

Just to add I'm not going to use the railco bush as it will need shimming up to Miss the CV bell and machining but I will most likely require a steering damper as fitted to Some SIII. The cv will also need to be repositioned in the centre of the sphere because it's Dia is massive compared to a coiler swivel ball which in turn means it must sit further in to make the joint in its correct orientation. This is why I think the stage one is longer. I haven't measured yet but I think I can just make my own bronze bushes and machine drive members to make up the difference (bearing lock nut space dependant)

Cheers twodoorsgaz I just picked up a pair of std ones. I want to use std parts to keep parts available. As soon as they land I'll put them on the lathe to take out a mm maybe 1.5 so the early defender CV's will fit. Then it's a case of setting the CV so the joint is central in the sphere. Cooler balls are a lot smaller Dia and tho means the cv has to sit further inboard than it should do. This is easy done by making up new bushings for the CV but it does mean the shaft will not protrude as far as it would do normally. Again not too much of a problem I can take down the drive member (bearing lock nut clearance permitting). If Kam are doing shafts that's great would certainly mean a cheaper solution. Everything will need machining to get it to work however if I make a spare of everything I will have one on the shelf ready.

Just won a pair of chrome balls. When they get here I will throw them in the lathe and get them machined ready for the CV's to fit with clearance. Some lathe time ahead but will have something really strong and reliable when it's done and more importantly for my needs defender hubs and flanges to fit Rostyle rims without destroying them.

Saw the waeco type mega money I will have a look on ebay for a caravan type one I guess they have the added benefit of a freezer section for ice with my run and coke!