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jai_landrover

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Everything posted by jai_landrover

  1. I have some alloys that may fit but they may need nuts made to fit
  2. That's the issue they will probably be engaged around 10-12mm both sides almost touching the issues I can foresee is shaft twisting and because the shaft goes in that only 15-18 mm stick through the outer drive flange again maybe twisting and not allowing me to pull the shaft out. Because both sides wil be done I hope the centre weld in the spider should take lttle grief as its locking through the gears I could have brought 1 shaft to go right through which may be the case if this is not up to the job it's simply a cheap try tbh full engagement of the drive flanges would be great but not happening unless I get 2 shafts made with extended splines which again may have to happen. It's al a try out but your playing with toy CVs is interesting as we tried to mix and match 32 spine inner star for the earlier 23 spline star and the balls were very different smaller and very sloppy we thought maybe an after market item or Lr Changed to smaller balls Cheers for te info Much appreciated J
  3. If you have chopedmoff the rear stays the its no longer a roll cage IMO they go to the rear most f the chassis for a reason For specs check out the msa or look at the ALRC regulations under the roll cage section
  4. I did see a McNamara version well a picture of it with a locking hub that pushed the shaft in and out. Have been toying with the idea on a rover 4 pin diff but decided there is not enough meat on it. Bill help me out toy axles we had a quick measure and we seem to think there is only 1.5mm dia difference on the 30 spline over a rover 24 CVs fair do's Toyota win. Trying to compare Ashcroft everything to HD toys are they that much more stronger?? My option is to fit HD CVs to the series now aeu5522 seem relatively simple ish to do however toy cvs front seem not too dissimilar and look superior in strength and cheap to upgrade vs ashcroft £600ish I will need special shafts anyhow so plenty of ideas not much cash but time and machining available............ Jai
  5. Mo bit late now your sorted. I have a 4 pin 90 rear for sale. But my main question if it turns out to be the diff. If its scrap to you I'll happily give you a box of beer for it. I'm all out of 3.5's somehow I have 12x 4.7's in the garage. Jai
  6. he has the older wheel nuts the small type I think he will end up changing hubs or indeed studs before anything will be close to fitting
  7. Right I have had the idea for some time and having a detroit locker in my 90 is all well and good but its now banned from trials comps :-(. I must have the ability to lock and unlock the salisbury before an event taking 5 or 10 minutes is no bother it must stay in its form i.e no accidentally locking whilst trialing rendering me a cheat. It must cost as little as possible as I got married earlier this year and having brought a house 4 years ago money is not something I have alot of spare to throw on lockers.The axle must use as little special parts as possible and use std sals shafts. Locking a diff through the gears is all well and good but presents serious strain through the gears. Although sals are big and tough if I can not use the gears solely to lock it up would be a great advantage for reliability. I must add the biggist tyres ever going to be fitted to this trialer are 34 inch due to the front cage outriggers giving me a bit more leaway with breakage worrys and the ability to use less expensive equipment. First of all we used a drive member machined down to fit inside the diff spider: Unfortunatly no pics :-( Then I had a local machine shop machine out the spider to accept the splined section. My old mans lathe could have done this but it required a 4 jaw chuck swap and we had lots of other little projects on the go so I got it machined and tig welded by a local firm: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/200/g5is.jpg/'> Next we had to try and get the half shaft to engage through the sun gear and into the spider. This i thought would be quite easy again asking the machine shop to machine out some but no they declined as it was so hard.nearly an hour with a dremel and dressing a stone to fit the pillar drill we have something that will work. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/841/xvji.jpg/'> I have aother one to do and then I can reassemble the modified bits into the diff. Next problem the drive member. We machined as much off in the lathe as possible to get the shaft to be flush with the inside of the sun gear teeth minimizing the ammount we have to push in to engage the spider. I would have had concerns about losing strength however previously we have machined the bejesus out of a defender drive member circa 2-3mm cross sectional area to fit alloys. I went playing and sure enough TWANG We all said yup Too much. But I did an inner shaft (10 spline) so I am not worried about losing a mm or 2 in the next stage on the inside of the drive member to clear the hub nuts. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/g7fc.jpg/'> Today I have welded and filled a section of drive member drilled and tapped and its now currently being machined in the old mans lathe to clean up to fit the original hub caps.... More to come but it'll be slow. For those interested its going into this: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/trialer9999.jpg/'> A rebuilt 3.5 Rover powered series 1 1951 sals rear end with above mods. Front end needs to be built eventually custom shafts and defender AEU5522 cv's I have various 4 pin units and ashcroft HD CWP's but working on pegging a few and selling them to the trials guys n gals to fund the eventual locker making it all locked up and ready to roll. Keep it light cannot wait to get it out trialing but time money and weather is killing me at the moment!
  8. I have one from a 1951 80 inch well battered and bruised free for a pint plus delivery costs and if you so feel a pint for the forum
  9. My old man ran his 109 with +40 thou pistons and he had the head skimmed something silly like 140thou rings a bell so many mm in reality which the eng firm refused to do at first saying it was a mistake. he had to shorten the pushrods but it was the fastest series I've ever been in with overdrive would cruise happily at 70mph no problems he got the info from an article donkeys years ago about a race tuned lightweight comp safari motor in the all wheel driver magazine I think. Look into it but he used to get about 22 23mpg I think on a run to Wales which for a well laiden 109 wasn't bad.
  10. Reconditioned the 3.5 ourselves as we knew it was right new rings bearings and a good tidy up only done 3k miles since rebuild 20 years ago been stored since but got hot once not much but a bit hence rebuild when plumbed up first turn of the key ran perfect.
  11. I know correctly jetting a worked on 3.5 took a few days rolling rod sessions and various different needle combinations thrift right the cost of which kind of negates the idea it's cheaper than getting the efi system. Furthermore twin SU's as fitted to landies are only ever good for 220 ish bhp. A messed with 3.5 was 212bhp with a hurricane cam and much much work. If you think you can plonk on an old set from a 3.5 i think you'll be wasting yor time and run like a bag of poo like most 3.9's with such a mod do. Although there is no substitute for cc a well setup engine fuel air mix is critical. Personally you'd be better off selling the 4.6 and reckoning the 3.5 nothing special just as new and have a well setup reliable system. Just my 2p worth P.s I junked a supposedly rebuilt 3.9 on SUs ( still in the garden) for a rebuilt as new 3.5l on matched Su carbs J
  12. Right o it will work just fine with a £150 shaft however I'm a tight git and want to use std shafts do we have a plan and it looks like I'm machining more bits tomorrow and we should be in for a cheap locker ill put up a separate thread with pis when it all done and stop pinching yours Jai
  13. Trying to find a shaft with 80mm of splined section at the hub ed aswell as at doffend is proving difficult. For now ill swap a shaft out maybe the mkII will have a cable Hand brake lever moving shaft need an eye bearing in the case an some kind of selector fork and lightish coil on the drive member same as a clutch fork.
  14. Doing something similar but I need to be able to unlock the back axle or ALRC comps http://img89.imageshack.us/i/61no.jpg/ Not sure how long it will last but with the correct half shaft length I can lol te back end up Next mission cvs in the front and HD everything!!
  15. Would love a stage 1 front axle however cannot justify the cost myself I'm sure others will pay the money your looking for!! I hope you get rid of the bits and get the widow and the family a decent amount of money for them Regards Jai
  16. I just read procomp es9000 can be run upsidedown apparently procomp said its ok themselves which may be helpful.
  17. I have plenty of olduns here if you need. I'm going to make up a mock up set for the front series axle. Still not started fitting defender stubs or Cv's yet still building the series. just managed to put the fuel tank mount and battery mount in finally. Trying to get a mega wide angle short propshaft for the salisbury on an 80 inch EEK! Also depending on how good a prop i can get I'm looking at extended lengths of rear shocks because I can get seriously mega ammounts of rear end flex (assuming the propshaft remain within limits). On the hunt for data I guess I'll have to just measure my Pro comps and see if I can find an alternative cheap longer shock. Pitty you can't run defender rear shocks upside down because they would fit perfect as mine has extra top pin mounts.
  18. Right think I'm good for rear halfshafts I think I may have something that may work give or take a few mm of machining.
  19. Not sourced the shafts yet still on the hunt will have a measure and send you lengths and specs will take a couple of days as I'm not about for a bit. The plan was to use defender ones but they are too long and the splines not long enough. Kam was an option if they have longer splines but yet to look into it just wanted the diff centre sorted and fitted for the upgrade at a later date. Still not 100 it will be strong enough option 2 is 30 spline shafts from the states which is ball ache for stubs but once sorted pretty much unbearable on 33 inch tyres
  20. Usually it's a 6 week wait from anywhere for shafts I'm in no rush trialer still being built trying to get a bullet proof setup for the v8 is key to not being another DNF. The guy doing the Salisbury centre said 2 days which is handy as that can be put in the axle and it will work as an open diff until I sort shafts and a reliable locking mech. My plan is to have a bullet proof ALRC trialer light as poss under 1 ton but with the option of having the back and eventually the front locked up for only minimal work before a non ALRC comp. ability to fit a front winch eventually Paying 1k for a switch and air system to lock axles etc is nice but not happening for me, house and life takes that money away so 5 minutes to lock each axle will do me. Only running 33 inch tyres so should be a laugh and if we don't try these silly ideas of ours then we will never know if it would have worked or not.
  21. Thank you my trialer has been waiting for this conversion I have the 4 pin diff ready to build, the Salisbury rear is getting a Jai locker cheap as chips homemade locker getting machined over the next couple of days. Been phoning around for a price for custom rear shafts all day. The scottish guys seemed best but they never answered the phone 6 calls!!! Will keep trying I need 4 inches of 24 splined shaft at each end and circa 2 inches overall longer than a stock series sals shaft. Ashcroft or Kam not interested as they need bulk orders maybe there is a machine shop that does bits for the local f1 teams tey may get a call but price and spares availability will be key to me.
  22. Very interested about to put cvs into a front axle possibility of needing 3 sets
  23. Whats the deal if your helping a team i.e pit crew are you just a spectator etc??
  24. I guess they must do as they have them on their force 9 axles I think they changed the hubs aswell to make room for a decent wheel bearing. I live 2 mins from Ashcroft ill be up there Monday I will ask cheers Bill never thought I of asking the tbh
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