jai_landrover

I've seen the bolts shear/stretch a comp safari full chat hitting a huge felled tree end on. Nver seen a chrome ball break up as noisey's tho

Mo I fitted a cheapy paddocks one (I'm pretty sure it wasn't a Britpart item either, maybe Armstrong) It wasn't expensive. Its been fine and abused for 3 years now. I will need another one not because it doesn't work but because points came before brain moment trialling and I got caght up on a concrete post which has caused it has bent slightly after taking out a std drag rod at the same time.The bushes have worn on the damper. Its worth buying Genuine bushes or better quality bushes as the ones that come don't last as long as the damper will.

Tube type early are considered stronger than the bar type. They are lighter but have proved in trial comps far stronger than the later solid bar type

Righto First thing first, I havent got Megasquirt I am halfway to MegaJolt. I have no intention of going EFI. I have a rebuilt engine and want to mount the pickup sensor different to the "Norm" but I am using the old PAS from a RRC early. Before I dig out my protractor and make a mount. Is there a recognised or more suitable place to mount the contact sensor???? Am i missing something or do I just need to go out and make the damn thing? Jai

Hey I think my bro saw some of the Belgian LR's at or close by to Ashcroft on Friday I do believe, J

One of the fallacies that's often quoted on lr forums I'm afraid! The problem is they will not fit the front axle! Boosts may well fit but most later alloys will not the problem is this. As a general rule alloys do not fit drum brakes 90/110/defenders people think this because of the drum brakes which is completly wrong. The reason is the deeper drive member which protrudes through the centre of the wheel and touches the inside of the alloy not allowing it to sit on the hub face. Note back axle 99.9 the alloys will fit this is because you have 6 or 8mm of drum brake on the hub face giving 6 or 8mm extra clearance. The front however has a disk brake and the drive member or more accuratly the drive member bolt heads protrude out from the hub face that little bit extra and stop the fitment of alloys. This is where you run into problems simple answer is yes drum braked ones they do not fit but its not because if the drum brake it's the front that causes the issues. How do I know............. Been there machined the drive flanges, made special countersunk bolts, fitted alloys would I do it again not a chance.

The shocks are compressing fully and taking the weight of the vehicle thus bending its pin mount before the axle hits your bump stop with your setup its almost certainly your issue

If you google you may get the answer but its not always reliable! :-)

101's have salisbury axles maybe the prototype has an ENV from a forward control IIb but the normal is sals spares are not cheap they are leaf spring and the ratio is 5. somthing can't remember off my head but 5.11 seems to ring a bell.

I believe 101 Axles are wider, have welded swivel balls (not replacable) have 6 stud hubs and are salisbury origin. As they are salisbury type they are indeed much stronger than rover but have less gorund clearance than a rover diff if mounted the same due to the diff banjo being so big to acomodate the huge internals compared to Rover stuff.

Hi Muddy yes I do have it for sale still

Ok looking like 3 of us here me my bro and possibly Spyderman on ere was a set each maybe 2 sets each or me and my bro gonna be an expensive one me thinks

I picked up a 90 axle with ashcroft shafts and a 4 pin diff. need to sell the 4 pin and fit the shafts and another 4 pin with ashcroft CWP in my 90.

You could probably use one side shaft which ever has the longer splines on the KAM locker however I'm not sure how much cheaper it would be as there shafts are £150 each so only £10 saving before Vat.

I'm still falling behind still yet to fit cvs into series swivel balls and defender stubs n hubs hoping its just a case of respecting the cv inner bush in or out and maybe some light machining to swivel pins but no idea as not got it all in front of me as yet

3 to 4 weeks wait I said about 3 or 4 inches o extended splines how much extra he said no problem 160 should cover it still needs a cut and shut pattern and a drive member and indeed a cv to try fit never asked but should have asked about bulk discount

£160 plus vat per shaft in S1 or 300m material??? Any good??

Ok to keep costs down does anyone know what shaft Kam do in their aerospace range that has the longer diff splines on it? We might be able to cut or shorten slowly with lots of coolant to the correct length for a series application. I know my older Kam non areospace shafts has the shorter shaft with the extended splines fof their locker. Thoughts?? £124 each we may only need to get one side made and one machined???

Cant beat an old saggy RRC with soft saggy springs 1 inch from the bumpstop! I have red whites on my 90 they are 175Lbs/inch lighter duty than std and 3 inches taller (average) free height resulting in approc 1.5/2 inch lift. Well it did and they were perfect for my winch equiped 90 hard top with enough stuff in the back for a trials comp. Now I have some rear springs I think around 190Lbs/inch but still quite tall as loaded up for comps with red whites all around the back end was too low for my liking and occasionally you'd hit the bump stop on a sleeping policeman. Baring in mind my 90 will be towing a trailer and a trials motor I fitted the stonger rear springs. Also for what its worth save you money on shiney bling and buy hd shafts and a locker. if you feel so inclined dip you current springs in orange paint if it makes you feel good but as mention suspension needs to be thought out fully and when fitted tested fully to make sure its all A1. The problem is the spring "Kits" they never give lbs/inch they just say HD but many different variants of a 90, 110 or indeed a 130 RRC Disco etc have massivly varying spring rates in each corner depending on use engine and or equipment fitted so hoping thaty the one they chose to paint and sell for a serious premium is actually suited to what you want is kind of like trying to win the lotto. If I had a pound for every landy with stupidly high Lbs/inch suspension painted bright colours lifting wheels offroad because the rate is so obviously too hard and then the driver/owner saying how great it is offroad I'd be able to buy myself a coupld of lockers by now. Rear end I have Procomp +2 shocks and fitted a salisbury rear axle. Baring in mind this is my nice to drive/tow motor its not doing bad. The front suspension is red whites with std shocks. Salisbury rear has a detroit and the front currently has a lockright and FWH. These are coming off for some ashcroft shafts and an open 4 pin until I get an ashlocker in there. It has 37 inch mitchelin mud tyres which are ok for ground clearance but not amazing for sideways grip nor amazing in the wet but they are an ok compromise.

Ed had a go in the last minute qualifier in his 80 inch trialer. Think he did well to drive past 3 motors that were winching up but then suffered a broken front diff before the end.

When I mentioned to Ashcroft last time I was up there I was told HTP gears or something like that. I know it wasnt HPC Gears I'd have remembered that as i have used them before for something else. I couldn't find anything like that online. I just picked up some ashcroft front shafts for my 90 and a 4 pin genuine 90 rear diff built into a 3.5 housing ready to go. Pisser is have no use for it being 3.5 all my motors are 4.7:1 even my 90. Guess I may aswell sell it complete and get some cash for a second set of shafts.

Fuel stop solonoid fault, faulty ign wire to it or knackared inj pump

Deffo those alloys in the pic I have 4 of but no wheel nuts :-( they are extremely light was thinking of using them for a comp safari racer but only 15 inch dia :-(

I think the ones I have are the same as the pic wolf alloys but they need special nuts and are 15 inch. Fitting alloys to an early 110 with the early dive members or indeed rear drum brakes. The rear on the drum is usually ok it's the front hub protrudes the thickness of the drum brake hib face more and the alloys foul the drive member bolts. I have machined down drive members changed to cap headed bolts and counter sunk them in to gain enough clearance. I have been told some alloys fit I cannot say I agree as I've not tried any others except RRC alloys these almost fit but certainly do not and require work. If you have a later axle skinny drive member on the front or indeed domed RRC axle then they should fit no probs.