jai_landrover

They are 2 pin 10 spline inners as standard same as a series differential. However the cross pin is has circlips and are not as prone to breaking the cross pin. However any Rover diff pre P38 (change of diff shape) will fit with 24 spline internals 2 or 4 pin center and ashcroft or others can supply HD shafts off the shelf as can they suply the differential itself.

90 rear axle were drum braked. Ashcroft make the rear shafts as do others that will be a direct replacement. Axles are readily availabe second hand as they are usually taken off in favour of old RRC or Disco Axles that are disk braked.

Ashcroft have always been good to me. They have given me some s/h parts over the years speedo gears and the like to keep me going when I've enquired about them selling them to me I live around the corner.

Bit late but hey ho, More to come

I got some pics mainly of my 90 going around My old man got some video but it will take some time to process. I have some video of my 90 again plus a few others in the group, What Group were you in RTV?? I was F2 Brother was F11 A B C D E F G H?

Hey Nice to see some RC's My Bro built a few: First one is to bash about nice and light lexan no real scaleness to it but not bad for entry level comp. Home made chassis Home made chassis again http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoLB4sZ-4A4 Spitfiremk1uk For Pics its the first post on this forum: http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=40752

Anyone Know whats heppened with the AWDC website its been down since yesterday when I tried it?

I believe the axle is double sleeved also

Kings lynn or somwhere near I think

who's taking part this year? I should be there in my 90 and if I can get my backside in gear get the 80 updated and relog booked might be CCV'ing.

They only have puny motors and the specs are rubbish made for big RC Planes don't think it'll be any good for your idea but here is the biggest tey have: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/xyh80100a-130kv-brushless-outrunner-7055-p-404608.html I was very tempted to try and get 2 or 3 and modify a winch but after seeing my small Brushless RC car submerged under water I gave up on the idea. Still i have a diff pinning jig to finish so can't have too many projects on the go at once aye!

My only dealings with brushless is with RC models the last 5 years the cost and performance has rocketed I can now get a 2.5Kg model to accelerate vertically on a motor and controller setup costing around £25/£30 the batteries are still expensive ish around £40-50 but in the scheme of things very cheap. I guess the tech will come and with brushless effeciencies it will be very very good and not that far away.

Not sure what motors you have used nor much else about this project but. Wouldn't it be easier to have 2 brushless motors or indeed 4 (no diffs) brushless motors and just maniulate the electronics to get what you require? The torque from an electric motor can be far more substantial than an engine. also with sensors either crude speed sensors or load sensors you could have a truly awsome offroad able serious articulating independant suspensioned motor. The technology in batteries alone have come on since the first Lipos and the enegry stroed in them can be awsome combined to a decent brushless setup it sounds like a winner. I'm very interested in your project!

I'm trying to update an old 80 inch series one and need to put another x member 3mmx100mmx50mm and plate back to the chassis with 6mm or 1/4 plate to comply with ALRC regs then hopefully start playing with the AWDC again with a motor that i don't mind rubbing trees with.

Milner Racing they do tranny boxes with ratios you require for the comp safari guys

ALRC we used to run Red/whites RR/HD rears 175lbs/inch copared to 215Lbs an inch Front on a defender or on a special light vehicle used to recommend disco/Rangie V8 fronts lightest duty. Now days you can get springs to what ever rate you like whats these grey springs x springs? or another manufacturer can get you wnat you need.

Id be very surprised if it was Kam internals although I remember reading somwhere that some special order wolfs did have Kam internals so may be. Rear disk brakes were standard circa 1992 and most defenders were disk braked only earlier 90s, 110s etc were drum braked to Ka I think. Anything after that salisbury or otherwise were all disk braked. Anything after disk braked salisbury I assume is all 24 spline and so HD, as for fronts 10 spline shafts until 1992 or 1995 (it may be later possibly 300tdi) 1995 when they changed to weaker CV joints but went 24 spline diff centers Jai

Dunno about the later type, I thought the later type axles were rover items anyway and not Salisbury ones. I thought halfway through TD5 they stopped fitting them. Mabe on the 130's or higher carrying capacitys they are still sold. I'm not sure if they will fit your axle although fitting a salisbury isnt all that much work there is no fabrication involved except for Propshaft modification but thats best left to experts its a nut and bolt job otherwise. You will need to get a shorter propshaft my 90 uses a rare TDI RR Classic front Prop that is an inch shorter when closed to my old standard item which works out perfect. You will need to get one cut down or find one an inch shorter than your original. The spring locators need to be changed to your old ones as the 110/130 have larger diameter springs other than that just bolt it up, be warned tho that Britpart shafts are carp even tho they are salisbury ones! Also note salisbury axles are bloody heavy and you will need a spreader to get the diff out to fit your choice of locker as and when. Jai

Thanks Cieranc, a surface grinder sounds like a plan. Dunno how well it will cope tho as I wanted to keep the rubber seal that goes up against the inner ring but Its certainly worth a try I'll have a butchers and see whats around my way Luton area. Bigblue110, Very re-asuring, I know its mad I just saw it as blatently wrong thats why I asked the questions. If its been done and tested then I'll go with it. I have ordered my brackets shoud be here for next weekend and calipers I may just shoot up to paddocks one Sat morning to get them as they are only £45. You say about them being a bit too good. My rear brakes are 110 drums 11 inch and when I first set them up on my 90 when it was completly empty of tools ect if I stamped hard on the brakes the arse end got very twitchy (the Landrovers as well as my own) and locked up very easily but it made for a cool party trick when messing about. (being a tit). Cheers People. P.s if anyone is interested Here is some on board video of a few of us Herts laners in Derbyshire last weekend a bit boring if you wern't there but hey have a butchers if your into it. http://img190.imageshack.us/i/chaplegatedecent.mp4/ [ Jai

From your explaination you can turn a wheel with hand brake applied, clicking somtimes back and forth somtimes only forwards etc it sounds like you have a detroit locker fitted to the diff. This will somtimes make funny bangs (lockup) on the road if you are exiting a corner sharpish or loose traction on one wheel it will make a noise and transfer the drive to the slowest wheel. It will also feel a bit weird to drive on the road. Does it sound like its ratcheting around when you spin one wheel when jacked up and hand brake is applied? Do you have to give it a bit of effort to get it to ratchet or click around? Sorry loads of questions it may just be a fooked diff but you may be lucky and have a locker fitted. Jai

Lol Yea I suppose, Well I'm gonna go and take the other hub off and see if I can get them both on for tonights Progress after wirebrushing it down and paintiung the axle. Ordered the caliper mounts and will get some 6mm sheet in the week. Once that axle is up and ready to fit time to start the refurb of the Front 4.7 ratio one. Then swap over the detroit and swap out my current axles for the refurbed ones with all new bushes. Jai

My main concern was the ammount of bearing not supported by the stub axle. My axle will get some abuse we lay out alot of trials and marshall comps alot so will need to take plenty of abuse. I will not use the front groved spacer. I will use the D shaped spacer used in the original 110 rear but I will need to machine it down. The question now is how exactly do I do that. I have access to a small lathe but it will be too thin to hold and machine. Top marks for the authur of the other thread I must admit. Bloody handy to know things in advance. Whats this LR4x4 like then people? I'm usually on another forum TBH, but I've never had to have Mods vett my posts before. Jai

Hi Western, It was this post I used and have got everything the same part numbers cross referenced and the bearing is not fully on the stubaxle shaft the outter edge is almost half the inner bearing off you can see that in Pic with the bearing and no spacers his is the same (although not bolted up) it looks the same to me Jai

Ok I have done a search and found what I was looking for in the Tech archive. But...... From the tech archive I have a few issues that I can hopefully get clkeared up here. He used 90 Front hubs, These hubs have a wider bearing offset than the 110 originals and here lies the problem: The outter most bearing does not sit fully supported on the thickest part of the stubaxle it is only approx halfway on the thickest part of the stubaxle and the rest of the bearing inner is not supported on its outter most edge where the stub axle is reduced but still plain. I thought the man that converted his on here used different hubs to me but when I checked he is also using the same hubs and stub axles. From his pictures its also clear that he had the same issue. How did he resolve it anyone know? He used the keyed spacers on a stub axle that has a flat in it, I really dont want to do this apart from them wanting to move, it brings another problem the spacers do not go over the stub axle far enough to keep the outtermost bearing from being held in place you end up with about 1 or 2 mm end float. Filing around the inner ring will allow the keyed washer to move to the slightly thicker plain part of theMy soloution was to use the 110 inner spacer th stubaxle approx 2mm but it seems wrong using the wrong type of spacer. So is is approx 8-10mm thick which works well to adjust the bearings to the correct setting but is too thick not leaving enough room for the lock tab washer and the second nut to be on enough to my satisfaction. reducing the thickness will ultimatly resolve this issue but again the bearing is not fully supported Any ideas??? I really want to get this knocked out pretty soon. My only other option is to go buy genuine 110 stub axles and hubs for a disk braked axle which would rocket the price up shead loads considering I won an axle set for 99p and 4.7 ratio 110. Jai Jai I don't want to do that options are to use original 110 spacer instead alas this is too thick

Anychance you could send me some idea of plans I fancy having a go at this project Jai