LandyManLuke

Sound reasoning Design input is a significant factor.

This does sound good to me - somewhere where it is taken as given that SVA need not be covered, road legailty etc need not be considered etc.

Not rude at all, I've been doing lots of reading, all new to me. I'll get the coolant system up and running sooner rather than later. Point taken on not climb cutting. I've been using (2 flute) slot drills in situations where I need (choose) to plunge cut in to the work piece, and (4 flute) end mills when working in from an edge. I believe this is correct? Luke

Thanks for the replies gents, That's been my problem To put it another way; - I don't have lubrication sorted yet, on the to-do list. It sounds like this is important and I need to get it sorted - I've only done a few practice cuts so far. - The Bridgeport has a Model J head (stepped V pulleys) but I've replaced the original motor with an IEC frame motor and inverter, so I can have pretty much any speed I'd like. - On carrying out tests cuts, the vertical part of the cut looks like it has been 'ripped', rather than cut smoothly. I have read a bit about conventional and climb cutting, but the results don't look too different at the moment. My plan is to elminate variables one at a time and learn as I go. I should have a working lubricant system within a few weeks and I picked up an optical tacho so I know what the spindle's doing. thanks, Luke

I believe it's relatively common on challenge trucks to use a traditional throttle pedal and cable and put the TD5 throttle pot on the end of the cable, in a waterproof box on the bulkhead. It's possible the pot design has improved. Does anyone know if they suffer still?

Hi all, The Bridgeport is getting to a point where it's usable, I've been doing some research in to cutting speeds and feed rates. Numbers on the internet seem to vary massively. Can anyone point me to trustworthy figures, or give me an idea based on experience? I'm using HSS tooling on mild steel for practice. Numbers for aluminium would also be useful. Thanks, Luke

Yes, I don't think TIG is much fun in silly positions, laying under a vehicle etc etc.

A cheap machine will behave like a cheap machine, regardless of which wire you put through it - not very well!! When you consider the small difference between the two processes, from the machine's point of view, you should ask why a cheap machine is cheaper - when the only difference is the polarity of the output and a solenoid valve. Have a look at this page which explains the differences. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/gasless-mig.htm In the UK, it is now much easier to get 'rent free' gas. You pay a deposit for the cylinder, and slightly more for the gas, but for hobby use it is much cheaper than using disposable bottles or hiring a cylinder on a yearly basis. Is the same thing available in Spain? Luke

This works well, currently going through the same sort of learning curve with Linux and a Raspberry Pi, but also applies to MIG, SW, getting an old Bridgeport up and running etc

The built in tutorials are a pretty good starting point. You can choose from a number of topics and follow step by step guides.

Learn, or learnt? I don't think young Engineers going through uni. now are going to spend much time with 2D? Our apprentices are straight in to SW at college. I understand what 2D is for, I just personally don't see the value of using it (for what I do), when compared to 3D, which is so different and much better value in terms of effort in = results out. The comparison isn't just between 2D and 3D CAD, the same is true for electrical schematics/design - 2D CAD vs something like ePlan, which is an Engineering tool, not a drawing tool.

If you've got 3ph and some space, definitely look for something industrial. The old miller machines for example are the size of a house and most are 3 phase/400v. Ideal for you.

I agree that there is a difference between being able to draw on a board, and being able to use solidworks. I fit into the second group much more than the first. I believe it's true to say though, that if you use Solidworks properly, you don't need to know quite so much about how to use a draft board. You do however still need to understand the basic Engineering principles behind tolerances, fits etc and designing and making something that will actually work. It is very easy to draw something that looks pretty, but won't actually work. To draw an analogy, one could argue that someone should learn to write letters by hand before using a wordprocessor, however, what this means is people use a word processor in the same way they would write a letter by hand. They don't use the tools of a word processor to their full effect. Anyone who's found a word document laid out using 1000 hits of the space bar will know what I mean! Whilst I am self taught, I am confident that I can draw parts in SW, produce a DXF for the laser cutters, and drawing for my use in the workshop, and have a lot of cut bits of steel turn up that will fit together and work as they should. I can do this much quicker in SW than I could using traditional 2D CAD (which is maybe more about me, than 2D CAD) with the added massive bonus that I have a 3D model to rotate, look around, simulate movement, inspect/measure, explode, cross section etc. Luke

I wouldn't bother with 2D CAD at all. Once you've used 3D, you'll probably wonder what the point of 2D is, IMHO. Solidworks is learn-able without any CAD experience, in fact it's probably better to learn it without having any 2D experience before hand! I don't speak as an expert, but as someone who's self-taught Solidworks without any CAD experience beforehand. I know there are things I don't do properly because I haven't had the training, but there is lots of information out there to work out how to do things, using online tutuorials, forums etc.

For the DIY-er, R-tech seem to come out pretty well in the middle ground. They're reasonable machines, going on reviews etc, but they're not as expensive as pro machines. http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/welding_equipment/Tig_Welder/Tig_Welder_R-Tech_Tig161

If I recall correctly

That sounds like the alternator is feeding the solenoid circuit and holding the solenoid open. I wonder if an issue with the diode rectifier in the alternator could cause an issue like this. I don't have circuit diagrams to hand to check. What has changed since everything was working fine? Are you sure the ignition wiring is 100% correct from when the switch was changed?

Yes I remember that I took the floor panels out to improve access. The footwells were still in position though.

I did both front outriggers without taking any body work off. It's a horrible job though. Removing the remnants of the old outrigger and cleaning up the chassis is the worst bit. I bought the outriggers that hook over the chassis rail and was able to weld the inside by removing the exhaust etc.

I didn't bother. The chance of the seal kit working vs the cost of an exchange box direct from adwest meant I just bit the bullet. Haven't looked back, has been spot on for the last 6 years or so. The only slight hiccup was the pump self-disassembling after a few hundred miles. I put this down to the closer tolerances in the new box loading the pump more. I believe its not uncommon for this to happen.

Peter, in your case its likely to be swarf under the solenoid allowing fuel through. The op's issue is electrical, not the stop solenoid itself, if pulling the wire off stops the engine. Grounding it is a very bad idea, it's live.

Ralph, Thanks very much, very useful. Shame they don't have online CAD models. Luke

Evening all, Does anyone know a manufacturers part number for FTC3401? I believe at least Corteco make the seal, ideally I'd like their part number. Thanks, Luke

If the solenoid works when you pull the wire off, you are probably on the right track with the alternator providing power to the stop solenoid, which is keeping the engine running even though the ignition switch is off. Hasn't a diode the switch-side of the warning lamp been mentioned before? Edit: see the following link. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=45294

It's standard stuff, you shouldn't have trouble finding it. Likewise, T-joints, one way valves etc will all be readily available from the right place.