LandyManLuke

Don't hold it on full lock, that's the simple soultion. Hauling the steering in to the stops doesn't achieve any more.

Bit more information here, if anyone's interested. http://www.mod-sales.com/direct/vehicle/related/51497/Land_Rover.htm

What part numbers have you got?

Spindle in the wrong hole?

Pedant award goes to TSD They were 'One Ten' and 'Ninety' originally. Typified by, but not strictly limited to, lift up door handles, ribbed roof and a few other things I can't remember. The 'Defender' name was brought in with the 'Discovery' name. Luke

Searching for 'tachometer' in the Business, Office & Industrial category gives these results http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Business-Office-Industrial-/12576/i.html?_sac=1&_from=R40&_nkw=tachometer

I have a VDO tacho fitted. Slight word of advice, I believe they come in 6k and 8k versions. Something to watch out for. As I recall, the unit is fitted with some DIP switches for coarse calibration and a pot for fine calibration. This may have changed, I fitted mine about 8 years ago. I set it up using tick-over and throttle limit, so it could definitely do with improvement. I keep meaning to borrow a shaft tacho from work and put it on the crank. Luke

I certainly didn't mean to cause offense, if I have, I apologise. To be honest, my comments were aimed more towards other replies implying that creating a spectacle was the first and preferred choice, which I don't think it is.

Also got an ebay hydraulic crimper, has been fine so far.

I would have thought dealing directly and professionally with the parties involved is likely to have a more positive overall outcome than attempting to defame the very people you are dealing with.

Have you read the guide i wrote? The switch handles whether the indicators work, or whether the hazards are on. The two options have separate supplies. If the indicators work fine but the hazards don't, its a switch or supply problem. My guide explains how to differentiate between the two.

We've contemplated running CANbus and a 'ring main' round the boat, using PICs with onboard CAN. Would make it easy to implement 'all-on', 'all-off', 'night-passage' lighting etc from multiple locations.

You could wire the switch in series with the NC contact on a relay with it's coil driven by the alternator WL, so that it opens when the engine is running. To be fair though, must people wouldn't press the button when the engine is running? On a friends motor, the push button is back-lit. The lamp circuit is driven by the oil pressure warning light. This means the button is back lit when the engine is off, then you press the button, the engine cranks and fires and assuming all is well, the back-light goes out. It works pretty well. Luke

http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/Pricelist.html £800 plus VAT. Seems expensive. I suspect it might not be so expensive when compared to the cost of picking up a good second hand bulkhead.

My 200tdi 90 is due a galvanised chassis this year. The bulkhead is also in a bad way. I'm looking at my options, which I think are; 1) Repair it and hobble on for a few more years 2) Repair and galavanise the exisiting bulkhead 3) Buy, repair/modify a td5 bulkhead 4) As above and get it galvanised 5) Buy a 'new' bulkhead Option 1 and 2 depend on the state of the current bulkhead when i get it off the chassis. I've seen threads discussing option 3 & 4 on here, definitely an option, and I don't know what the choices are for option 5. What do you know? Any links, advice etc appreciated. Thanks, Luke

Good write up! Would it be possible to connect the additional wire to the base of the spade inside the housing, underneath the contact strips? I know it would take a lot of fiddling, but it would keep all of the mods inside. Luke

In practice, people who genuinely want the clearance for off road use have generally veered towards re working the wings and tub. An awful lot of work is required to lift the body and the rewards are slight, especially as you have added the disadvantage of increasing the height of all the body work.

You need a 12v dc/dc adapter to give you a stable regulated 12v supply. They're commonly used for car PCs.

Be careful, many inverters have optional keypads. You will need one to set the inverter up, so budget for one if its not included.

Sorry, its .com.

Check the windings on the motor you're going to put the inverter on. You want to aim for a 240v delta winding so you can use 240 in, 240 out inverter. If you've only got a 400 volt winding, you'll only get to about 35hz or will need one of the step up inverters. Have a look at inverterdrive.co.uk to compare prices.

This is not the first time I've read a post like this about LR direct. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42434 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=27755

Definitely not. Air tools need loads of air. Even if you fitted a tank and used the compressor to fill it up, ARB compressors start moaning if they run anywhere near constant duty - ask anyone who's had an air line break on a locker. A tank big enough to run air tools off would probably overheat the compressor before it was full.

The deciding factor in this sort of situation can often be whether you can do the work yourself. If you are paying someone to modify axles to fit, it is likely to be more expensive than bolt-on-bits for rover axles. On the other hand, if you're ok with welding and a bit of suspension geometry consideration, it can be cheaper to do it yourself.

Have a look on mig-welding.co.uk, there's lots of information on there. If you're just starting out, a cheap stick welder is not going to be much fun at all.