LandyManLuke

Just so you know, I'd say they're cast and then machine back, they're not amazingly high quality - there are some bubbles visible on mine where it's been bored out. The casting will pretty much match your short shaft - they're not solid, more of a bell. There's no keyway, I've been looking in to picking up a broach to add one to mine. That said, it's running my Bridgeport absolutely fine - I do have the 'unequal ratio' issue - I can't use all combinations without changing the belt - but that's no problem as I use a VSD anyway.

Machining the damage out and filling with epoxy should be a long-lasting repair. The time and effort goes in to creating good adhesion for the epoxy - a bit of time with a dremel etc should have that sorted.

Generic multi-vee pulleys are available from http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/MULTI-_VEE_PULLEYS.html'>RDG As it's unlikely that the belt path will remain constant with a generic pulley, you'll either need plenty of adjustment or a couple of different length belts. How much do you want to spend? What about a new IEC framesize motor and inverter? Too much?

Have a read of http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81512'>this thread, lots of useful info.

Thanks. My bad for missing the original info.

What sort of ackermann have you gone for on your steering arms? Sorry if I've missed previous discussion on it. Is there any keyway or interference fit on the steering arms, or just the 4 bolts?

Recently used myhermes, and have been impressed with the ease of use of dropping off at local newsagents and online tracking. Price was good and delivery was on time as scheduled.

The tests on this thread will allow you to determine if the hazard switch is the issue or not. If you add the links as described, you can test both hazard and indicator functionality.

In that case, i would suspect the flasher relay itself.

If your indicators and hazards don't work, I'd suggest the the flasher relay is faulty. What does and doesn't work at the moment?

If you can't read the markings on the battery, a multimeter will quickly confirm which is +ve and which is -ve.

To make it clear, the motor is series wound, so you need three cables, and to wire it correctly for it to run. 1) Ground 2) Supply to either F1 OR F2. 3) From the remaining Field winding (F2 OR F1, whichever isn't used above) to the Armature (A). The motor is designed to have current flow in series through the Field and Armature windings. Both ends of the Field winding are available, to change the direction of the motor (F1 and F2), the other end of the Armature winding is earthed (motor earth). You should end up with just one terminal/connection to F1, F2, A and ground. If you have more than one terminal on a post, or any posts empty, you're doing something wrong. Luke

Does sound like an air leak and lack of fuel. Is the fuel filter full or empty first thing in the morning before you try and start it?

Have you contacted Adwest? They might be interested in buying any of their steering boxes?

Because people buy it...

Yes, there's a big difference between filling a tyre to 30 psi, and a tank to 100psi (ish) though.

As above, the ARB compressor itself has a small tank. If you fit a large tank that takes a while to fill, you risk burning out the compressor. They're not designed to run continuously.

Megatunix is an option, you'll have to compile it for the Pi yourself though. I believe Tuner Studio uses JRE. There's been some effort put in to getting JRE to run on the Pi, I don't know how far progress has got. You wouldn't have to use a USB Serial adapter if you didn't want to, the Pi has a UART that will do the job fine, you will just need to sort out RS232 levels, either by buying an add-on board, or buying the ic and building the circuit yourself. It's pretty simple. I've only just started looking in to this, so I'm not up to date or 100% on anything.

Sound like breathers to me. They should poke up in to the engine bay.

Are you proposing to have the A-frame mounted forward or behind the axle? If you have the A-frame forward, and the radius arms behind, vertical travel will likely make the axle rotate excessively, which you don't really want. This thread could be moved to the new Modified vehicle builds and special projects section.

You will need to replace the torch, either for one with a manual gas valve built in to the handle/switch, or one that requires a gas solenoid valve to be fitted to the machine. Sorry but neither is a sensible option compared with buying a welder suitable for shielding gas in the first place.

I've been looking at ackermann for a hypothetical hydraulic steering build. Putting the ram on the back of the axle created issues with diff/sump clearance. There is more room to put it in front of the axle, but as pointed out, ackermann considerations put the rod ends somewhere inside the tyre. Using a track bar behind the axle and a single ended ram in front solves the ackermann geometry but leaves you with a single sided ram, which probably isn't much fun, and a track rod that needs to be pretty beefy. Another consideration for ackermann, that I haven't thought about in detail, is fiddle brakes. We have had good success with fiddles, but the steering is not without issue. Moving the theoretical pivot point for the back of the vehicle must have an effect, but I haven't fully thought through what it means for ackermann. Luke

Me too.

Fridge's reasoning makes sense. Overall, it sounds like most people will get the idea of what belongs where. It's no great problem to move threads if required, as long as it's done sensibly.

I think it is. Each to their own. Everyone has their own level, their own objectives and means. Slagging something off because it isn't your thing isn't contructive, nor does it help the forum as a whole.