LandyManLuke

Since the machine will get used pretty rarely in the grand scheme of things, I had planned to not use the machine sump, and use a seperate sealable container. This discussion in this thread is making me consider whether that will be possible with spillage etc. If it's not, I will make it so that I can empty the sump after use and pump the coolant back in to to a sealable container, to try and keep the bug issue to a minimum.

Sorry, I should have explained better, no coolant's been through the system yet. I've got the nozzles, but have not built the rest of the system, no pump, pipework etc. I just hooked the air line up as a test when I had a go at doing a few test cuts.

I use a couple of fridge compressors to generate most of my compressed air. they run pretty warm, and taint the air with a hot oil smell. The tank and pipework are regularly drained of condensation. I had the pressure down low, but I was using the flexi-hose components etc I have ready for liquid coolant. I might add a restrictor and try again.

That is quick!! I'm in the process of getting my bridgeport up and running. I don't have a lubrication system set up yet, so I tried using an air blast to keep the swarf clear of the tool. It worked well, but emptied my 300L tank way too quick, and stank! Luke

That compares favourably with the 'BEP Marine' unit, which is only 125A, but is mounted in a potted housing. Google says it retails for about £70 at the moment. You're offering 60% more capacity for a tenner!

running a 12v winch motor on 24v is reasonably common on winch challenge trucks. The motor will run faster, but you risk burning the motor out. You will need to wire a 24v charge/warning bulb between the 24v alternator and 24v battery. You can still use a 12v solenoid, as long as you supply the solenoid from your 12v electrics.

I'll be there, going down tonight. No landrover though

It will be painfully slow, hydraulic winches driven by the steering pump are really slow. Quite a few people have added PTO or engine driven pumps for log splitters though.

This has obviously ignited a few people's views on the topic! For what it's worth, I have a VSR, one alternator, and two batteries. The system works very well. The advantage of a VSR over a simple relay is that the batteries are not linked until the engine battery is fully charged, and are unlinked if the Engine battery becomes discharged. This protects starting ability, which a simple relay does not do so well. Horses for courses, but two alternators is perhaps overkill when overnight capacity for a fridge, laptop etc is all that is required. I have been using a BEP marine product for approx 8 years, without issue. The module is potted, so has resisted the elements well. http://www.bepmarine...itive-relay-vsr- It should be made clear that a VSR of any type isn't suited to winching applications - that's not what they're designed for. Luke

I often charge the battery whilst it is in-circuit, still mounted in the car. Be careful using jumpleads, if you short the crocodile clips whilst connected you are likely to make a mess of the leads or your pants. If the battery is flat, turning on the ignition will very likely pop the fuse in the charger.

I get stuff laser cut. The quality is very good, especially at that sort of thickness, but there is a slight discolouration/burn along the edges. It's not very prominent at all on mild, more so on stainless.

I'd second the above comment. Low end SiP stuff is in the same camp as Chinese/ebay specials, certainly when it comes to MIG. I would be cautious of their TIG sets based on that. You're going to be very hard pushed to get an AC tig for that sort of money. DC tig should have a few options. Have you looked at R-Tech? http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/welding_equipment/Tig_Welder

If you're in a fix, Maplin list two core screened cable. I haven't used it or checked how suitable it is, but it might get you out of a hole.

As above, I've lifted a RRC body off using the roof, in my case eye bolts in to the rafters and ratchet straps, but it worked fine.

I have used http://www.beltingonline.com for belts before, they are very reasonably priced. I couldn't believe how cheap they were. I was unsure of the exact size I needed, so I ended up buying 5 - my best guess and the two either side of that. Total delivered cost was about a tenner - not worth spending the time trying to calculate the length accurately.

For what it's worth, the 13mm A section belts on my pillar drill are on the highest ratio; both go through a radius of about 20mm on the smallest pulleys. It's been running on that ratio for about 6 years and though there is wear evident, it's going ok.

Nice!! A mate and I had been looking in to using one of these Lexus v8s, but keeping the auto box and mating it to a LT230 to sort out 4wd and output flanges etc. Nice work on the adapter plate, smart. Looking forward to seeing this come together. Luke

Thanks Dave, that should have me sorted tomorrow when I'm on my back underneath it trying not to get completely covered in mud.

I didn't realise there was anything on the selector, I thought all the switches were in the gearbox? Does anything refer to the Neutral/Park and Reverse switches coming out of the gearbox?

Thanks Ralph, Any more info on 'gear selector interlock' on Rave? Luke

Howdy, Can someone tell me what the electrical connections on a ZF auto box are? I'm guessing there's inhibit/park, and a reverse switch. Is there anything else? What is the pinout for the plug, or the wire colours? I'm trying to do some research before I have to crawl under a muddy challenge truck (with a belly plate) with a multi-meter. Thanks, Luke

Also, what sort of angular, axial and radial play/misalignment do you need to accomodate? This information will be part of what dictates the type of coupling that is suitable. 10kW at 2000 rpm is 48Nm.

If you fit 4 point harnesses 'for show' incorrectly, they could well end up killing you. Granted, the standard seatbelt installation isn't the greatest, but poorly fitted 4 point harnesses will be worse. Sorry to be boring, but it's a truth worth taking on board. Harness shoulder straps need a fixing or bar at shoulder height, no lower, else they can put your back in compression. You also need the shoulder straps to be as secure as the waist straps, if the top straps fail you can end up folded in half by the waist belt in an accident.

Have you googled shopping results for 'usb surface mount', there were lots of useful-looking results.

Here's the official route.... http://www.solidworks.com/sw/purchase/varlocator.htm