You could make one by taking a fuse apart, or buy something like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-TA123-Car-Fuse-Adaptor-Lead-Set-Standard-Fuse-/130668438537?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e6c722409
Have you got a multimeter with ammeter functionality? Put it in line with one of the battery leads with everything off to see if there's any draw. Don't turn any loads on though, you'll pop the fuse in the meter.
Can't remember the thread size, but they're a standard imperial nylock, they're also the same as propshaft flange nuts.
You could buy a load in bulk for much less than buying them via the LR part number.
Good tacks, then let the engine settle on the mounts, whilst still on the crane. The classic mistake when retrofitting a tdi for example is that the timing case hits the steering box.
Selling you those bits makes the rest of what he has practically worthless. That's the issue. It's highly unlikely that anyone would want to buy a 200tdi block without the turbo and manifold.
You should read up on using second hand chassis, the identity of a vehicle is attached to the chassis, as well as the other major components. Strictly speaking, you'll end up with an illegal vehicle.
From a technical perspective, the engine mounts are very different between a 200tdi and a td5. You don't say whether the td5 chassis is a hi-cap or not.
Whilst I'm sure it'll do the job, I wouldn't like to guess how long that contactor will last. It looks pretty cheap!
If the contactor welds itself closed, or the radio remote holds itself on, how far can you be from the isolator to run back and turn it off, before the hook chews through the fairlead?
On a husky, I guess you've got quite a while, could still make a mess though?
Sounds like you've got a petrol only model, intended to be driven by the engine ignition. You need one that is specifically compatible with diesels/alternator w terminal signal.