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LandyManLuke

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Everything posted by LandyManLuke

  1. Have you tried emailing threadfast in Congleton?
  2. Online, quick and easy. http://www.beltingonline.com/vee-and-wedge-belts-213/
  3. Adding a dedicated supply and relays to drive the headlights is a worthwhile upgrade, along with replacing the bulbs and lamps, if they're old.
  4. As an aside, I'm looking at Tek-Tanks for a couple of marine diesel tanks made to fit the boat's engine bay. Any further comments on them?
  5. You could make one by taking a fuse apart, or buy something like this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-TA123-Car-Fuse-Adaptor-Lead-Set-Standard-Fuse-/130668438537?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e6c722409
  6. Have you got a multimeter with ammeter functionality? Put it in line with one of the battery leads with everything off to see if there's any draw. Don't turn any loads on though, you'll pop the fuse in the meter.
  7. Can't remember the thread size, but they're a standard imperial nylock, they're also the same as propshaft flange nuts. You could buy a load in bulk for much less than buying them via the LR part number.
  8. A dump valve on a diesel is pointless. There's no butterfly valve to get in the way.
  9. Nice work on the ibus pi interfacing!
  10. Oh no! Rubbish! Had been enjoying this thread. Hope you can rebuild it.
  11. Yes, shocks can be a problem in some cases. Not a problem with air shocks.
  12. We made a bolt-on bracket that sits between three extended stub axle bolts and the calliper, based on some original work by SiR.
  13. What callipers do you have on the back? We fitted 4 pot callipers which made a massive improvement.
  14. I turned some machine screws down to a point and milled two flats on the point so I could use a small spanner to get them in and out
  15. Good tacks, then let the engine settle on the mounts, whilst still on the crane. The classic mistake when retrofitting a tdi for example is that the timing case hits the steering box.
  16. Unfortunately, this has been reasonably well covered in the press and documentation. Doesn't mean it's right, but it's quite clear.
  17. Selling you those bits makes the rest of what he has practically worthless. That's the issue. It's highly unlikely that anyone would want to buy a 200tdi block without the turbo and manifold.
  18. I'd jig the axle using the arms and replace one at a time to try and keep everything true.
  19. Definitely worth going, I'll be going again if I can fit it in.
  20. What are you doing with the mating faces in general?
  21. A bottle jack gives far more control than a hi lift, you'll probably need to rotate it until the working parts are at the bottom, so it'll pump.
  22. You should read up on using second hand chassis, the identity of a vehicle is attached to the chassis, as well as the other major components. Strictly speaking, you'll end up with an illegal vehicle. From a technical perspective, the engine mounts are very different between a 200tdi and a td5. You don't say whether the td5 chassis is a hi-cap or not.
  23. Nilfisk are well respected in industry for extraction, vacuum cleaners, air filtering etc. I've not seen a pressure washer from them before.
  24. Whilst I'm sure it'll do the job, I wouldn't like to guess how long that contactor will last. It looks pretty cheap! If the contactor welds itself closed, or the radio remote holds itself on, how far can you be from the isolator to run back and turn it off, before the hook chews through the fairlead? On a husky, I guess you've got quite a while, could still make a mess though?
  25. Sounds like you've got a petrol only model, intended to be driven by the engine ignition. You need one that is specifically compatible with diesels/alternator w terminal signal.
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