LandyManLuke

Lifting the drivers floor doesn't really get you anywhere. Crawling underneath is the fiddly way of doing it. removing the bit of footwell over the gearbox is the best way to gain access.

I've got one from the VDO vision range.

You want 'riv-nuts', or 'nut-serts', the tool for setting them is reasonably expensive, £30 upwards IIRC. google rivnut/riv-nut/rivnut/nutsert/nut-sert/nut sert etc for info. Hit the yellow pages for your local fittings & Fasteners place, speak to them and they'll know what you mean, regardless of the particular brand names.

I've set mine by trial and error, using max RPM and tick-over, i really should do it properly one day.

A diesel rev counter will normally have a set of switches and a tuning pot to set up the correct reading, as apposed to a petrol (coil) driven rev counter where you just set the number of sparkplugs/cylinders/ignition events

you need to tap off one of the three windings, before the diode pack.

I've never had a problem, make sure the earth clamp is near to where you're welding. disconnect the battery if you like. I don't see any need to disconnect the alternator, especially if the battery's disconnected.

I don't know about the Bosch unit, but the A127 style alternators have a seperate diode pack. I don't know about the bosch, but judging by the size of the diode unit in an a127, i imagine its seperate on the bosches too.

nope, that explains why the WL isn't lighting. I'd say diode fault in the alternator.

Does the WL have a decent connection on the back of the alternator? to test the WL wire, if you remove it from the alternator and earth it, the dash light should come on. the WL circuit is used to energise the alternator on starting, so if the WL wire isn't connected, or is connected badly, it would explain some of the alternator's poor performance.

Well this is what the front cover looks like

there are no earths on an alternator, it earths through the engine mount. the smaller studs will be the WL and/or the W terminal for a rev counter.

What exactly is the problem? fill up the reservoir, slacken the nipple on the slave (which should be on the top of the slave). Pump away. fill up the reservoir as you go. what's going wrong?

I'd try the other keys for starters, LR locks aren't particularly complicated things.

Having a bit of a clear-out, I've found a copy of All Wheel Driver from 1986. I was 1 back then, so whilst it's an interesting read, it's not all that relevant. I was wondering if anyone on here was around back then, and might even be in it.

I wouldn't trust a resistance check to confirm glow plug operation. I replaced all four of mine recently. I bench tested them with a multimeter and a set of jump leads. 1 worked out of the 4 3 had low resistance values, with no discernable difference. 1 had high resistance - yes, it was one of the 3 that had failed So, in short, I wouldn't say that the test results were in any way dependable. In any other 'sluggish to rev' situation, i would suggest the lift pump failing, but since there's black smoke there's too much fuel in the cylinders anyway. I'd fully check the air inlet route from filter box to manifold, as well as querying the health of the injectors.

The first thing that strikes me about that twin pass intercooler is how much longer you're making the path the air follows, if you're not careful, that's going to restrict flow, which isn't a good thing.

If you connected the freelander to the battery when it'd been 'fully charged' on the charger i'd strongly suspect a knackered battery. A healthy charged battery shouldn't make any alternator (ie the freelander one) labour at all.

That's your decision, I made mine and bought a mantec.

Mantec are undoubtedly the best, but you pay more for them. i've had mine fitted for 5 years, with a 33" tyre on it, and i've still got a back door in one piece, that's why i fitted one.

I'd run the winch off the engine battery, that way your draw less current through whatever split charging relay you use.

Ahhhh... looks like my two seat conversion will be going through as a 'commercial vehicle' then - any repercussions of doing it that way?

As above, it's definitely worth changing the dust seal. I did my belt just before christmas, for the sake of a few pence it's worth doing.

that means you've correctly indentified the earth wire as the earth, which is good. Now, you need to test what's going on inside the bulb holder. the shroud should be earth and the two pins in the back should be brake and tail. each should get 12v on it in turn when you press the brake and switch sidelights on, respectively. they should only both get 12v if you brake AND have the sidelights on - they shouldn't both get 12v in any other circumstances.

One of those 'mate of a mate heard down the pub about someone else's brother's mechanic' stories? By all means, take the advice, it won't do any harm. like wise, i'm not running outside to re-route my breathers to prevent impending doom.