LandyManLuke

how are you getting 24v on a 12v vehicle?

what a load of rubbish!! Given the relative cross sections of the snorkle and the breather pipes, the pressure drop you'd see at the breather pipe would be negligable. ok, if you block the snorkel you might have a viable situation, but then it'll stall the engine, or leak from somewhere else. I've had my axle breathers in the top of my snorkle for about 3 years, no problems what so ever.

A multimeter will solve it.......

yup 10 spline. It takes 5 minutes to whip out a rear halfshaft to check. are you sure it's the diff?

I built a centre dash unit to house the touchscreen, cb etc, it's got space for 4x 52mm gauges at the top, when i can afford them

I'm interested in this thread. I am fully intending to SVA my range rover build, as it's had extensive chassis modifications, as well as much altered body work.

'more sensitive' to what?

don't assume that. Some LED bulbs have diode circuitry so they can ignore polarity, some don't. Of course, a filament bulb doesn't care about polarity. I'd use a multimeter. You could test the polarity sensitivity of the new and old bulbs on the bench.

So the bulb works - what about the socket? had a look with a multimeter?

what do you mean it doesn't work? have you bench tested it with a 12v supply? have you had a multimeter on the pins of the socket?

The 90's gone from this (taken in '03) To this (taken at the weekend) The Rangie's gone from this to this!! Though it's changed a bit since that photo, the back of the roof is mostly mig'd on.

X-brake dismantle the drum and clean and rebuild the expander and adjuster, it doesn't take that long. adjust the shoes up properly using the (now clean!) adjuster and it should be easy to get it sorted for three clicks, assuming your transfer box isn't leaking oil onto the shoes.

My Mantec one uses the top of the tub and the rear crossmember, I'm quessing fitting will vary between makes tho - you'd need to know what make it was to know exactly how it fits. can't you/he just offer it up and see where the holes match?

does it look like this on the back?

That's a voltmeter, not an ammeter, but yes, it's charging the battery, if that reading is accurate. muddy water and brush packs do not mix well. Assuming (dangerous, i know) you've got an A127 style alternator, removing the brush pack is straight forward and pretty quick.

how much of a charge? I'd remove and check the regulator/brush pack.

dead easy to wire it up so it's on/off/reverse. use a relay, and indicator, as mentioned already.

Oh dear, oh very dear. I hope someone lets him know what he's got himself in to.

As above, use a relay.

Normally I do it just trickleing forward, second year usually, clutch in, just feeling the transfer lever into mesh. I've done it at higher speeds, double de-clutching, when i've got moving and not wanted to slow down again. Low box is rather useful for Sheffield traffic jams! I wonder how many clutches i'm burning out behind me.

I'd go with checking the battery voltage first too. An alternator won't thank you if there's a wiring fault and it's run open circuit.

Whatever's great about Landrovers, $h!tpart isn't it!! I do my best to avoid britpart bits like the plague.

I've thought about making a single bunk, Fold the passenger seat forward and make the base go across the top of the bulkhead, from windscreen to rear door.

My handbrake looks like this (1992 200tdi)

err... fit an X-brake!!