Philip Tonkin

I knew there was something, i'll give it a try!

I have found them to be very open on here in the past. There are a few ways to do it. I have seen Ashtrans post a full list of what you need to do the mech or electronic conversion. You have 3 options. Buy the bits on the cheap, buy from them and fit yourselves and get them to do it. But I am sure they are happy to assist regardless.

Could have been better, you could have posted right hand drive pictures

If my Intercooler completely covers the radiator is it worth adding a muff? It is taking an age to warm up unless I drive it really hard.

Will an older one fit? Surely the change was to accommodate the rear mounted tank?

I would go for an early 110, so lift up handles, sliding windows, galv cappings etc rebuilt on a galv chassis with a TD5 and autobox

Aren't lightweights heavier than a normal series before you still the parts off them to make them air portable?

How about connecting the motor directly to the transfer box. Gearing may need to be changed and you will still have high low and even more space for batteries under the bonnet. Deep cycle batteries are easily accommodated in a 90 with the configuration above. I did some quick sketches of a design a few months back using and Advanced 9" motor and at 144v. I found space for 24 Yellow Top Optima's Below the floor (TD5 tank position, in the wheel wells, 4 in the seat boxes and the rest under the bonnet. Still leaving loads of space on top for the controller.

SMO has raised a point I have been thinking about for a while. Can I re-plate a trailer to 1100kg to allow me to tow it? Assuming I do not exceed this weight? I am thinking specifically of a Sankey which is just too heavy for a B license behind a 90 hardtop.

Why is the Defender heater so bad. People often say it's about set up but mine is in perfect adjustment but really lacking any real airflow compared to many small hatchbacks. I wonder if the ebay units could be made to work better than the standard or if maybe the problem is the fact there are no forward blowers which means it feels colder until the whole cab is warm. I have thought about trying to re-engineer the whole thing in a more compact and efficient package.

Aragorn is completely correct. It is the MAM of the trailer that is important. I find it very frustrating that a trailer plated at 1600kg and designed to be towed by young drivers (http://www.degraafftrailers.co.uk/light-weight-rowing-boat-trailers.htm as an example) I could tow with a car with a kerb weight between 1600 and 1900 but I can now not with my 90 which is much safer for doing the job. Any recommendations on an instructor with car/trailer in the west midlands?

Or put a switch on it so you can switch between throttle settings.

Can't be the head gasket. The pressure from the pump only supplies the injectors, the plunger pump in the injectors themselves are the only thing putting pressure into the cylinders and although very high in the injector itself (around 22,000 PSI) the volume is very low so once in the chamber the pressure is again low. Was it doing this before the new pump was fitted? Have you checked the fuel filter assembly seals?

Brummies, can't trust any of them

Someone is building a trailer!

Not even photoshop could create a gem like that! Would you really buy it for the TDi? If the owner has built the bodywork like that what would you say for their mechanicals skills?

Have you thought of gas welding? As for wood fired generators there is a company in the UK that could sort you out, bound to be something like this in your part of the world. http://www.prestonservices.co.uk/generators.htm

door - BIC710250 or BIC710210 or BIC710220 or BIC710230 glass - CQB000140 or CQB000150 or CQB000270 seal -CVW500010. Not got a diagram but these should get you started.

Anybody have any idea what the rubber seal/gasket that is retained by the oil flier cap is for? I suspect it is maybe to act as a cushion between the soundproof cover and the rocker cover itself. As I don't use this cover, do I need this?

You don't need a new body if you convert to a double cab. Just a roof and rear window (and just make a bulkhead)

I would have bought it if it had been Epsom Green and not Grey. I bet he got fed up of people asking the price before huffing, shrugging and walking away (me included!)

Seems to me the the most vulnerable part of most landrovers is the lights. Guards can help but are not ideal. I have been thinking about 2 ways of making this better. Flush fitting NAS lamps on my Defender Using a backlit numberplate (if I can find a supplier who will do square plates) Either newer LED ones or a TVR lightbox fitted behind. Has anyone done either of these? Does anyone know if the latter option is legal for MOT if retrofitted?

I felt like I had seen everything in half the time i took last year. Even though it seemed everything was in the same footprint as last year it was quiet. Lots of companies doubling up and nothing new showcased (that I saw) Had to look really hard to find some of the stands I knew where there.

They should work?

Downsize? I don't think Azalia do a 90 based conversion Think I might have missed some of the back story. If you can live in the back of a land rover for 2 years a few less bedrooms on return won't be an issue!