stewy1984

i've used the same method as nick, but you could use a nut splitter or hammer a large screw driver or similar through and use that to hold it or an oil filter wrench.

Theres a gasket between the stub axle and axle casing aswell. not sure on the part number. I personally wouldnt use the gaskets (stub, drive member and diff) and just use a good sealant instead. RTV

So i finally got the axles off and stripped down. few f**ked stub axles and maybe the cv's . can anyone tell me what type they are? the rear crown wheel and pinion are chipped, so i want that rebuilt. rear front, seems different. allen head bolts also i saw a post on here, now i cant find it. someone had changed the air line fittings to accept 6mm pipe with a push in connector at the diff end?

cheers tony. looks about the best and only place. have you rotated the bit with the solenoids on?

I'm looking for some ideas and hopfully pictures of where people have mounted a arb compressor or other, in a 90 truck cab please. thanks

they look really good, and look to be about the same as mine (sorry never got a chance to measure mine). I did find on my first winch even last month. going through tight tree's that they stuck out abit to far and stopped me or more than likely it was my poor driving lol. had to just put foot down and bash through. but better than denting the body work.

i always try to do mine, but find i just cant get it all off. mainly around the spring seats (cones) if i'm really bored i take the wheels off, pads off and clean the mud off.

I think most people that would consider the 93" to 100" already have a well prepared truck. you dont need to extend the chassis/bodywork/cage. you just move the axle back 7 inches, with new spring hanger and longer link's/prop.

Sounds like the CV. Why they click i dont know, but someone that knows more than me will hopefully reply.

that ring. i'm not sure if you need it or not thought.

buy gwyn lewis mounts!

i used white90's method of 4 180mm long bolt's with the heads cut off, to help slide the box off. so you clear the shaft. there's a post with pictures here somewhere.

just a big screwdriver, impact driver, hacksaw, drill. yeah captive on the back, they are carp. good luck lol

it does sound that way. but yeah i know him. he bought the defender with them fitted over a year ago, so atleast i've know them for that long.

cheers for all the advice guys. i've just been for a look and they are infact 24 spline

i've just been offerd a pair of defender axles with 10 spline arb locker's with compressor. for £400. is this a good price? if i was to go for them, i'd have to take them off myself. so apart from the axles, compressor and air lines, what else should there be that i'd need to take off?

Cheers bish, yeah tube looks better, but harder to work with lol.

A friend has asked for help fitting some rock sliders to his truck (its an l200, im afraid) He has a 3inch body lift. He wants them welded on, but i think having them bolted on some how would be better. also wondering is tube or box is better to use? i have some 40x40x4mm box. here's a rough idea.

Hello, i believe you need 20+ posts in order to see the members vehicle section.

bumper, bonnet, roof? like a big step ladder.

http://dgtuning.wordpress.com/category/pro...ubular-chassis/

i have a vectra B fan fitted. its a pretty good fit and covers most of the rad (it has a square cowling)

i dont recommend them, but ive had a ****part water pump on for well over a year without problem lol.

flip a coin on it. either standard or superpro polly bushes

the disco/range lt77 has a longer bell housing and shaft. it will fit the engine, but is to long. so you'll either have to move the engine forward to try and get the gear sticks to not stick through the center seat. not sure if fitting the defender gear sticks will change aything. gearbox mounts will be a mile out, with the engine in the standard place.