pete3000

As you already know your old heater is actually an aircon fan unit with the associated switch (creamy plastic thingy) and relay to switch your a/c pump in. by swapping the "other heater unit" you will lose the a/c. Right the wiring for the new one. the purple/green is a live feed which is needed from the vehicle fuse box when you key is on at pos 1 or greater. the other two are returns to go to the cab switch for speed 1 and speed 2. They are the other side of the fan and one has a resistor for your slow speed inline. These are taken to ground by the cab lever switch which should have a black lead connected to its common or wiping contact. It wont hurt to touch these two green wires to ground one at a time to see which is which. You don't say if your aircon has packed in or you are stripping it out but, take care if disconnecting pipes with refrigerant in. It would be worth taking pump off and removing drive belt to save a few bhp. not sure how cab unit is bolted/piped in but this may also give more leg room if removed. Pete

If you are looking to do all this at once you will need a 7kva-10kva set. 3hp just about works on a 13amp plug (150amp welder). compressor again 3hp. If you need lights and a kettle you may need more juice. silenced sets are worth considering if you don't want to upset the neighbours. Have you thought about a road towed diesel compressor/welder/generator. This may fit your final bill better than buying seperate components. Plenty about on ebay, dont buy the cheapest lombardini/lister older sets as they aren't silent. Only disadvantage is that if it packs in you have lost all three.

Just a thought, can you try and turn the alternator round to use the other web as the pivot? This will only work if the webs are in line both sides. Or as a bodge you could get 2 ally bridging pieces made from 3mm plate to sandwich what is left of your broken bracket and alternator web then put small holes (m4-m6) in each half and bolt through plates and hold assembly together. Wont be as good as ally welding but may hold until you can get back to uk. Pete

Thanks for replies so far, I remember the rover 200 series seats well as I owned a 216 but could not remember if the runners ended up flat at both ends. will have a look at fiat and saab. A lot of newer cars now have airbags and strange runner fixings. The dischargers for the airbags are fitted underneath the seats so I didn't want to go down that route. Has anyone used discovery seats? freelander? Pete

I usually just crack open the fuel filter bleed screw 1-2 turns and turn the engine over on the starter until diesel emerges from the filter. Never really got on with the lift pump handle thingy. The book was far too complicated on which crank angle it had to be at before it would work properly. End result engine and battery can do the work. Pete

apart from LR seats that is..... I'm sure many have tried, but are there known combinations of seats which will fit a defender with the rear bulkhead still in place? e.g discovery seats, RRC or rover parts bin, or ideas on other manufacturers. I searched exmoor and ebay and was surprised at the cost of basic foam/vinyl seats available. Ideally something black in leather with plenty of manual adjustment (not electric). I've done a search on ere with not much in the way of results. Has anyone else any tips or pics they can post? Other option I was considering is a retrim of a tatty set of 90/110 seats with the headrests and sliders. If anyone has any going begging. Pete

have a look on www.milweb.net for NAD 90's of military sorts. Look in vehicle park then landrovers. People seem to be ditching weekend show toys more now the cost of fuel has risen along with a decrease in local shows that are on. Shouldn't be too difficult to spend around £2k with the landy's being fairly unmodified. or register and look in emlra.org website in their forsale/wants section. Pete

Aragorn, too true, no good using 1-2 watt resistors needs to be a power heatsunk version. You only need two though at 3 ohms 25 Watt as this produces the same effect as four 6 ohms in each corner. If you check the good old haynes or lr wiring diagram there are only two circuits (left and right) with 2 or three bulbs hanging off each side of the flasher unit/indicator stalk. Green/white and Green/Red leaving the switch/relay IIRC? this is the case on early defenders and 110's I have worked on anyway. The other reason for a 25W resistor rather than a 50W (with 3ohm) is the flashers are on a 50% on/off duty cycle (or less if you haven't broken down) so 100% load is never seen. Pete

mmmmmm....... shiny goods! prices are not too bad but more than I want to pay at the moment. have you seen these people for worklights/switches/flashers etc...etc. http://www.emergencyequipmentshop.co.uk/wo...4b6c11312b3ea3a Pete

Jim, have a look at www.ultraleds.com they used to do ballast resistors 1 needed for each side of vehicle (2). now they seem to do a replacement flasher relay instead not sure if it is any good though? search "flasher" in quickfind box on their website. N.B (stranger results may appear on google) for resistor calculation would be maybe be 21w+21w+5w on each side =47w/12v=4ish amps 12v/4A equals 3 ohms. and suggest a power resistor such as a 25watt which can be bolted to rear tub by light cluster. any less than 3 ohms and the trailer flash may spring into action as you add more current draw. only my thoughts, no guarantees Pete

lots of discussion on this at www.mig-welding.co.uk http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4010 see above spreadsheet. And re: decanting of bottles and implications. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=5037 Good site with lots of info on fabrication, welding and gas and they even link back here for on-board compressor builds. I have seen a few members here are on mig-welding forum also. Some knowledgeable guys who have decades of commercial experience. Pete

Or how about using your 12v remote antenna out feed to drive a starter isolating and latching relay from a face off stereo, this way unless thiefy had your face from radio the engine wouldnt't start. Not as complicated as bluetusk and means you dont forget your tunes. Course it would have to be a loud enough stereo to be any good in the first place. cue scene from last of the summer wine with wesley and heavy metal. Pete

Nice but too easy to change a bulb, in fact at a few shows trucks were returned to with no lenses or bulbs. (difficult to drive home legally) The military liked them for the early vehicles as the maintenance schedules dictated that the bulbs were replaceable without tools of any kind. The headlight bowls and rims on ex-mil lr's are similar with a bayonet type fixing. to stop thieving sorts you can put a self tapper through military bug eye lenses or just swap for NAS spec £8 each (not genuine) or plasticy bits £3 each. at the front fit a set of lamp guards to slow removal. think these look familiar from my many receipts? smaller lights with stop tail holders (multiplug) XFD100100G Stop/Tail Lamp Assembly - Defender from MA939976 XPB100190G Bulb Holder - 5/21W - Stop/Tail Light - Defender from MA939976 AMR6513G Front Indicator Lens And Body - Defender from MA940005 (1995) AMR6514 Front Side Light Assembly - Defender from MA940005 bigger NAS lamps AMR3850 NAS Lamp Plinth - Round Reversing/Fog Lights AMR6526G NAS Stop/Tail Light - No Plinth (AMR3850) - Defender AMR6527G NAS Indicator Light - No Plinth (AMR3850) - Defender AMR6528G NAS Front Side Light - Includes Plinth - Defender AMR6521 NAS Reversing Lamp - Round - Defender AMR6522 NAS Rear Fog Lamp - Round - Defender you need a bag or two of locknut plastic square clips which I drilled a 6mm hole and then filed the corners square to fit the small lamps

could be cheapo bulb holders which mine were marked as wipac, from paddocks. o.k on sidelights 5W but if the brakes were on for any amount of time the cheapo plastic holders melted allowing the bulbs to "pop out" under pressure from the spring. or if you have a older landy the glass fuses are marked for holding current rather than the blow current of the blade fuses. I thought newer blade fused land rovers had seperate 5 amp fuses for left and right side light circuits. and another for the brake lights and fog lights.

except I meant to say axle, its not a stub as it is full width. shock absorbers also.

mmmmm, i have a narrow track 3/4 tonne. Not sure if the same but if you have drum brakes (shoes) rather than discs, I heard it mentioned that the brake/stub axle was similar if not the same as the old sierra. Maybe a pack of lies but it's my only lead at the moment. I haven't been brave enough to strip my trailer for renovation yet. Parts catalogue is available on internet. but not much use for ordering parts only for maintennance Paddocks did have brand new tubs for £150 collect only, a while back. My other plan was to buy a wolf spec hs trailer with disc brakes as a replacement. only other thought was to graft some stub axles and hub/brakes assemblies from towsure.com or similar. Maybe someone else can enlighten. Pete

http://www.exactmix.co.uk/ Specify what you need and will arrive and mix only what you need and wheelbarrow it into the foundations for you, I used this for 3 cu metres 3 years back. max lorry load 7-8 cu metres. Great for me as shed was no where near the road for access. about £100 per cu metre. includes 3+ large blokes for 1hour to tip it just need to level concrete yourself money well spent with no mess or bad back. Check delivery radius, though sure there must be branches/firms around the country.

This actually looks like a Draper transmission cradle which fits their two tonne trolley jacks, http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/200kg-Transmi...er-ATJ2-TC?sc=9 I own both and used the cradle to drop my LT77 and refit my r380 and lt230 with little problem. Adjustment is quite big for many types of gearbox. make sure you get a hi lift trolley jack though. Pete

check the silver coloured blip/peg is locating with and adjusting with the adjusters. It looks like the peg is facing outwards on both shoes? unless it protrudes the same on both sides of the shoe(can't remember). I got sold 90 shoes which didn't fit at all, so you have the right shoes. Just make sure they have been fitted as two matching pairs e.g 1 of each on each side. Mine were taped together as 2 pairs. The pegs for the adjusters are the best clue I can give without seeing the job. Also make sure you have bled the rear brakes once done if the pedal is spongy. Only do this when you have the brakes back together though obviously. I took the opportunity to change my brake cylinders while I was at it as I had a leaking seal. Pete

take it you are going from a 2.5nad? majorish bits. cut off old and weld new engine mounts and replace seatbox/tunnel/bulhead plates/metalwork new exhaust mounts new gearbox crossmember and mounts. work out where to get a power steering box and drop arm from (if you dont have power steering at the mo) new fuel unions and feeds for pump.(i replaced both pipes to tank) wiring mods for glowplug relay. new radiator/intercooler assy pipework for air intake(finish neatly with a snorkel) may need new propshafts. front and rear (length changes due to R380) suggest getting a complete "kit" from a salvage or scrappy. £2k-£2.5k all in? some bits although unserviceable will prove useful as exchange for new parts when you find they are useless. I did a conversion 3 years back and would recommend it, if you can stand the cost which you will never recoup in money terms. best place to start is www.nicksjungle.co.uk for an idea of work involved. although he uses a LT77 gearbox which may cut down on parts and work involved with seatbox and propshafts, although add to complications with engine pipework. He has good sections on glowplug and harness wiring. make sure you get a defender engine if possible as mentioned elsewhere on here the disco engine has a different manifold/turbo arrangement which results in nifty pipework and tight clearances. Pete

http://www.epanorama.net/ good circuit site. some of the links can be sites which need login tho' Pete

which engine is it for dude? 2.5 NAD is older type bracket for huge dustbin alts 24v x90A x2 lower piece and pivot with stay and arm? 300tdi is wolf ally alternator bracket which I bought from PA Blanchard in the region of £70 ouch. You can make one up from steel if you have a welder handy. Plus you'll need a tensioner and idler and belt. (similar if not the same as aircon parts) then theres the alternator which a genuine one is £800-1000 . Pete

Ta muchly Raceface the photo helped a lot. I have a 1/4 bsp-6mm pipe elbow on standby. will get drilling at the weekend. I tried the original breather pipes into 6mm pneumatic tees. The pipe is slightly oversize an doesn't fit. I just replaced the pipe along the chassis to front and rear axles with 6mm pneumatic polyproplene tubing. the gearbox/engine and tranfer gearbox I used some battery breather tubing pushed over the originals to splice the 6mm tube into the tee's. Pete

Can't see your sunvisors are they still fitted? nice idea's with the cb/ radio pockets stops the electrics getting wet when wading. whats the big red switch for? My only suggestion would be to add some rubber safe edge or foam pipe insulation on the cheese grater edge of the front. Not just if you are tall but in a accident it might bite/scalp you.

I have a 300tdi wolf (walt) replica. I also have a full radio fit complete with 24v wolf alternator sitting in air con pump slot on engine. I recently fitted some replacement extended breathers for the front and rear axle and am about to finish the gearbox and crankcase braethers off. The problem I have is the timing cover breather adaptor, supplied in most of these kits, bolts onto the three bolts using the blanking plate where you access the injection pump cover. My problem is that my idler/tensioner for the air con/wolf alternator uses this already. Any ideas where I can fit a breather without removing and drilling the crankcase cover please? TIA Pete