pete3000

On a lighter note does this mean if you have purchased items from them in the past and need a warranty claim you can send them back for a full refund surely the shade of orange paint will be as good as smart water in identifying the product as one of theirs. Pete

are the bulb holders a bit poo? I have had three bulb holder contacts break off now. I'm begining to regret ditching the Mil-spec lamps. I noticed the silver tin contact on three of mine has broken off leaving a nice bit of tin flapping around in the bulb housing. I have been able to solder a lump of tinned copper wire on to repair it, but this is not the point. The lamps are expensive any way you look at it and the bulb holder thingy comes with either the fog, indicator or sidelamp, so you take your choice which one to spend £7 to replace. I have a spare lens or two from the point where I couldn't be bothered to mess about. Mine are the Bearmach boxed versions and using connectors from VWP. Anyone else had similar problems? Pete

If it's wiring colours you are interested in, have a look at BS AU 7 http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0014.html colours are standard on most (british cars) in most cases (not french or italian cars though they use whichever colours they feel like) Pete

have a go at these

engine loom and ecu may be same/similar as duratorq transit, the rest should be pre puma. Only a wild guess but might be worth a look. Most of Ford-JLR reuse parts/items to save cash. Pete

^ not on the same brush, at the same time though Les Pete

Rick, 1) It sounds like your green feed is missing from your column switch and fuel gauge. Have you definitely got the ignition ON when measuring? 2) The other things that won't be working if the fuse is dead should be the oil temp (if fitted) and coolant temp and your stop lamps won't light when you press the brake. 3) If there is no voltage before the fuse (with ign on) check if the wipers work. 4) I think if you still have no volatge I would check your ignition switch especially the white wire which feeds the two fuses and then becomes green. Pete

If your indicators are working off the hazard switch, your indicator lamps and wiring are working fine. From memory the hazards work off the perm 12v feed from the purple clock/radio/hazards feed. Sooooo... I would check the light green/brown feed to the indicator stalk from the relay or the green feed from the ignition that feeds the dials/gauges. Should be active on your ign on. Same feed as your stop lights. If your stop light and gauges are working I would start at the ind column switch, green/white RH side, green/red LH. Light green/brown should be feed. Pete

$600USD ? or British West Indies $£??? how much in £ sterling Not sure which value $600 USD is quite a bit, probably worth the $75 USD shipping. Pete

http://www.famousfour.com/delivery.php famousfour http://www.apbtrading.co.uk apbtrading I have used both companies amongst others, they are helpful and may be able to provide remote delivery. Famousfour do Fedex and UPS. HTH Pete

I've got some deflex black bushes fitted to my 110, can't really say I notice any difference good or bad over standard. It doesn't get used massively though so I've no Idea how durable they are. I like the idea of being able to field change them next time though. If i was doing it again though I would probably fit superpro as mentioned on here a fair bit, at least they will be easy to get off now. Think i got the deflex from famous four a good while back Pete

Or, You could turn the alternator through 180 degrees (so the pulley is reversed) and the alt is now facing the radiator. This will now be the "correct way round". step 2 re-manufacture all the Mounting brackets out of solid wood. step 3 drill a 10mm hole through the alternator axle (to run the wire through) to come out the original side of the wiring. step 4 remove the viscous fan and fit new electric fan system at huge cost. step 5 use a core drill to cut an alternator shaped hole in the radiator. (solder up the leaky bits). Job done, sit back and admire your "handiwork". Or the simple job.... put a twist in the belt before and de-twist after doh.....

I too have a national luna split charge system, I find it has been ok generally but after reading the comments above about problems I have one to share. If the vehicle is left for a week or longer then the batteries seem to gradually go flat. This happens gradually and in day to day use is no real problem, my solution is to isolate both batteries if left for any time, with a couple of isolator switches. I now realise though this is only necessary due to the electronics in the national luna unit draining the battery to the point the alarm goes off on the meter, the drain then increases as the led's light and the buzzer is going off every few minutes. The current drain is in the order of 70-100mA. I will probably ditch it and buy a VSR BEP marine as highlighted above. thanks for the info. after a brief search, JG Technologies are distributors and do a 500A version 720? not sure if this is correct part no though. http://www.jgtech.com/switches.htm all which would be cheaper than the £140 odd I paid out for the national luna kit. Pete

depending on the year they pull out, the later ones rounded slide back/forward a bit then pull out, the early longer ones pull out on a couple of pegs from memory. if you manage to break them they are a couple of quid. Pete

Another vote for warming them out. I used a propane/butane torch too. 1. warm the steel inner tube at both ends until the rubber squishes itself out a bit. 2. tap or push rubber bush with a screwdriver. 3. Use the blunt hacksaw blade (the one you used to try and saw the hardened inner out ) to run round the soft rubber 4. Then a sharp hacksaw blade to cut two slots about 3-4mm apart almost through the outer. 5. Then use a cold chisel to peel the 3mm wide strip out and remove outer. Easy. 6. Repeat until bored, then give up until energy/insomnia returns. must do the front of the vehicle soon. Pete

The plug should be the same, have you pulled the rubber cup shield away and removed the rubber push in plug hiding the terminal block on the back of the bulb? There are two sets of connectors, one set on the bulb (halogen three pin)red/yellow/blue and another set about 12 inches down the extension lead into the headlamp recess which terminates in three bullet connectors. three seperate wires coloured red yellow and blue. The real problems may begin when the replacements aren't quite the same profile lens and they don't sit on the headlamp rim at the front. Pete

No, that is 4.8W which is 4.8W/12v = 0.4A or less if you are calculating at 13.8-14.2v 4.8/14.2 Pete

Yeah sorry should have been 12v, 11v would be very, very dead. If the load was applied as mentioned though it should give an idea of capacity, Pair (2x) 60W driving lights or an inverter should pull 10A or more out of battery, Wouldn't take too long to drop a dead battery to 12v. Pete

Those solar chargers aren't really much good, not the cheapo ones anyway. If you look at the current given out they wont actually charge anything useful, well maybe a few AA cells in 8 hrs. To charge a 80A battery Fast/slow the charge rate is C/10 or /20 or 8A or 4A. The trickle rate once this is done is C/80 or 1A which can be left on almost indefinatley. This means you would need to buy a 12v/12W solar to charge at 1A. The 5W chargers might do at a push. The 1W and 1.8W chargers are a waste of time all they do really is delay the inevitable slightly. The main thing to remember though is the ghost drain (things like your clock/interior lights/radio/alarm) and the natural discharge of your battery. I find the best option is to use a batt disconnect switch to kill everything, and trickle charge every other weekend. RE: charging and capacity I would leave your batt on your computer charger till green. Measure the volts once done and make a note, should be 12.95 ish. Then find a load of some sort pair of 60W driving lights or mains inverter, run for a minute or two then disconnect and record volts again. Repeat this until the volts is down to 11v. If you repeat the test with a good battery of a similar capacity you will see if your battery has any capacity or not. Pete

From memory on my 300 tdi the silver side sits on the gearbox crossmember, and only locates on one edge (with the threaded portion). The black rubber side with the threaded peg goes into the gearbox. The mounts are handed though, the rubber on britpart ones on mine failed after 18 months- 2years. The bearmach ones look a much better job. Pete

araldite, if you put a small amount on. My old rover 216 shed mirrors regularly till I glued it. I tried all the magic sticky pads etc. If you need a new windscreen at any point a paint scraper pushed between will remove glass from mirror. But not always without breaking the glass. Pete

Thanks chaps, B) , I can put my "readers" away now.

Have I missed something or are the posts listed funny, not funny ha ha I can only see the original post in full then the newer posts appear in condensed tree type view at base of page, cliking the newer posts only shows one at a time??? Is this a feature or a bug? Running XP and firefox 3.0.8 Pete

Yes I was wondering if things got a bit warm using the upvc, nice way of mounting and sealing them though. I guess if you are using push fit pipe you can change bulbs easy enough. I don't s'pose leds are quite there yet for light output. Pete

alfaman like the roof lights front and rear, any details. are they led?