pete3000

The £45 / 200miles / 33" tyres sounds average, If you have checked your earth leads Batt to Chassis, and Chassis to engine. Are you happy with speed starter is turning over at?. I would then start on fuel system letting air back in from tank side of pump. Pete

I would have run the pressure test first with the old gasket in situ, now you have it off however, I would replace gasket with correct good quality one and try the pressure test again. While the head is off I would have a looky around the cylinders and valves to check for any strangeness. If the gasket was o.k it may be the head??????? as Tetsu0san says. Check both sides of the old gasket as it may not be obvious from one side even 1mm or so will do it. Look for soot/oil marks Pete

I had a bit of wobble/play when I put some crystals in my ex mod 110, I got round it by (don't laugh) some silicone/pvc squashy cable from an old computer mouse lead as a gasket around the back edge of each bowl. Been perfect for 5000 miles. P.S the Wipac ones were the only ones I could find at the time were e marked. Pete

How old is your battery? could be the cold snap has revealed the weakness. Once the engine is warm, oil is thinner and the battery has been charged it will be easier to start generally. Then go over your earth leads. If you are suffering lack of power when running and trouble starting when warm I would start o the fuel system, filter then pipes for air leaks. From the description you have given it sounds like the cold though. Pete

Sounds like a head gasket to me, classic failure on TDi if the gasket goes through from cylinder wall to oil galley engine will run and rev up even with the fuel feed off, if it is really bad. Can pressurise crankcase, or cooling system if gasket goes through to water galley. See if oil level is low. A pressure test will confirm it. Someone will correct me if i'm wrong. Pete

A covering here at 13:30 still snowing heavily. Sticking to paths and trees. More forecast over weekend. With a bit of luck work will be shut tomorrow. Pete

Chance is someone has already done it on here...... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49397&hl=dinitrol&st=0 HTH Pete

assuming its a different box? is it like for like?. If all the linkages are same it must be down to the box. If it works I'd live with it. Get a new knob for the lever though.How often are you going to change it realistically? you'll soon know which range you are in. otherwise fabricate a complicated pivot arrangement in the linkage, to change the direction of the lever over. HTH Pete

If it has not been operated (the ww motor) for 2 years it is likely that the copper commutator has lost some conductivity from oxidising. and the grease in the wiper box should be renewed if you havent already done it. Does the motor run ok without it connected to the rack? If so a new rack will be in order. I notice my wipers are slow to move until the grease and the motor has warmed up in the cold mornings. Also worth a check is the earth connection on the motor back to the bulkhead? Pete

Add me as another one, since 2003/4? caught the licence requirements just as they abolished morse and before the three tier M3, 2e0, M0/M1 was introduced. So have an M1 call with no morse ticket (M0 with morse at the time). Don't use the radios to chat much particularly, more of a listener/builder/messer. Pete

Or if you mean how to remove the whole mirror assembly, you need to remove the door half of your door hinge. Easy if your screws aren't seized. You will need access to top bolts and nuts on door hinge. No door cards on my ex-mil, not sure on civvy. Open the window on door. Close the door firmly (to stop door dropping). undo the bolts holding the back of the nut with spanner and fold top hinge forward. Use pozi screwdriver to unscrew mirror arm from door hinge. Pete

might be worth having a look at a winterised/wading military 2.5 NA diesel spec defender as the snorkel sits on top of the N/S wing in the space that the heater inlet normally uses. A bit of 3" pipe then goes to a series 3 round mesh type inlet on the side of the wing towards the front to feed the heater. pete

defender front engine mounts are 2x 200tdi ANR2804 or ANR2805 or KKB103120 same? http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2913/KKB103120-MOUNTING-RUBBER.html?search=mounting%20rubber&page=1 think these are the same as the lt77 gearbox mounts on defender? ANR3200 and ANR3201 1 of each for r380 as they are handed. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2942/ANR3200-GEARBOX-MTG-RUBBER-RH.html?page=2&search=mounting%20rubber&page=2 http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2944/ANR3201-GEARBOX-MTG-RUBBER-LH.html?page=2&search=mounting%20rubber&page=2 ANR1808 is FC or 101 v8? someone will be along shortly if I am wrong:-) HTH Pete

depends on how new it is. Most modern cars have a courtesy light feature on sidelights/headlights now to allow you to get in the front door after switching off. Have you tried locking car with remote and/or leaving it a couple of minutes after locking to see if side light goes out. Other thought make sure indicator switch is centred as new cars leave left or right sidelights on as parking lamp if you push the ind stalk up or down. Pete

That'll be these ones then, at the bottom of the page, lowest table. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...hting/round.php 01252 for 2 pin ind, side, fog, rev. 01253 for 3 pin (stop/tail) Pete

Big fuses under the bonnet? The maxi jobs? haven't any newer than 1994 in front of me but off hand is maybe worth a look. after that maybe the ignition switch and the light switch Brown perm live, red side lights and blue main beams. Pete

Get a new keyboard for your PC as your caps lock appears to be stuck on, Get some new engine rubber mounts and do the clutch at the same time. Take the time to check all the engine extras as replacemets can be a pain once in. e.g lift pump, alternator plug types, glow plugs, starter motor, check water pump etc etc.

Have a look here, recommended quality kit. How do their prices compare? http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...le/thinwall.php

http://www.radioworld.co.uk/~radio/catalog...a01e18a990ac028 or http://www.radioworld.co.uk/~radio/catalog...a01e18a990ac028 with a cable kit would do nicely. Both are flexible in terms of mounting, variations on a theme from same place. The important bit is the ability to remove the whip part, either due to damage or anticipation of. make sure when you locate the mount to put it inside the rack and bring the wiring down a roof rack leg into the left or right of the screen area for ease of installation. You ideally want the antenna in the centre of the vehicle (front 1/3 of the rack) and the antennae bit want to be above the ground (roof rack when fixed). Dont forget to have two or three decent braided wires to the metal work on the gutter to earth the rack properly. Pete

I had to make a fair few batt leads and crimps up recently, I found a cheap chinese "hydraulic crimper" on the bay of E new for about £30. I figured if it lasts a year it will have paid for itself. I have done the 40mm sq leads and battery links anderson connectors and main batt/starter cables all with no problems so far. As a backup I find after crimping you can use a wet rag around the insulation of the cable and a small gas pencil torch and a length of heavy electrical solder to finish the joint off. Good on braided cables to stop corrosion of the braid. I you are really bothered (winch cable ends/salt water) you can get adhesive lined heatshrink to seal the ends a bit better, also looks nice. One tip though, never solder then crimp as when the joint heats up and the solder melts away the cable will come out of the crimp. Anderson connectors like a nice even rounded crimp or you may find trouble pushing the terminals into the housing. Note they shouldn't be solid in the housing after fitted as the spring pushes the floating terminals together when mated Pete

1. small and general tool which I bought on a whim, now gets used more than any other. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=43413 right angled 1/4 hex driver, use as a hard to reach screw driver or the other ned for a bit more torque. I used mine yesterday to get to the top of the top dash screws to change my washer jet, I couldn't get a normal screwdriver in. Coupled with a decent quality bit set you wont go far wrong. The only screws which will evade you are the ones down holes which need long reach thin screwdrivers. 2. Decent quality adjustable spanner. 3. 3/8 in propshaft tool from www.difflock.com 4. doubling up on spanners 2x 10mm, 13mm 17mm 19mm. 5. specials impact grade 30mm socket 32mm socket 27mm (wheelnut) socket, hub nut spanner, good quality breaker bar and extension. 6. Auto range multimeter which does volts, amps and resitance but takes AA or 9V batt and uses 4mm std plugs. Fluke 11 or 12 is my choice. 7. LED Headtorch. 8. Cable ties, gaffa tape, self amalgamating tape (sat tv), epoxy resin, insul tape, spare wire, fencing wire or similar, for making strapping or exhaust hangers etc.

BAD- defender clutch master failed after 2 months, with pedal operating at differing levels which made traffic driving "interesting". Dodgy poor threaded ally metal cap made checking level a nightmare, now have a branded one with a nice plastic cap which screws back on and off properly. BAD- britpart turret ring spacer thingys all the sring washers split and fell out. GOOD - Rear springs are good firm springs. GOOD- 110 Fuel tank and cradle although had to crimp a pipe closed which was "extra" BAD - Steering damper lasted 6 months before the rubbers perished. BAD - Their series wipac lights which were absolute pants as mentioned before. GOOD - 300 tdi defender rad BAD- Their engine/gearbox mounts lasted 6 months, before cracking/perishing. As mentioned I would now not trust safety critical or time consuming parts, bearings bushes driveline or brake/clutch components. O.K for body/trim and general parts which are easy to get to. Pete

You can get shorter vertical sections to avoid the "digging in" feature but I am guessing you want to retain your towball aswell. If you are feeling flush you could kill all the birds with one large rock and get one of these. http://www.southdown4x4.co.uk/DetachableTowing.htm#tpdrr Or for less cash I'd be tempted to buy some jate rings on your chassis rails. I'm not sure I would trust the towbar much as it stands, but thats just me. Pete

Break the credit card out and go tool shopping on the internet. See how many dodgy LR's you can identify on E-bay. Buy all the bits you need to make your next project/s, telling yourself they will only go up in price. Design a shed/garage/workshop combo and make a list of all your ideal power tools. Design to modify/make from scratch an expedition trailer, which can morph into a 5 star hotel with all mod cons, yet can be left in supermarket carpark in Liverpool Design the ultimate LR security device. Should keep you busy for a bit... get well soon. Pete

Yup they are the original ones L E perei, they were boxed items from bearmach. I was wary of cheap copies after the wipac bagged specials from paddocks. Ian the first sign of trouble is a non working fog/indicator/side/reverse lamp. When you remove the lamp from the plinth and the bulb holder it then becomes apparent what the cause is. I reckon the 180 deg angle the tin contact has been bent through has caused the matal to become stressed/brittle and a few more spring cycles from inserting/changin bulb causes it to fracture on the curved section. Pete