pete3000

Do you mean GCE4x4 http://www.gce4x4.com/ hope the computer is worthless to them i.e data was encrypted etc etc.

on a van fit a fume curtain or tarp behing the 2 front seats, over roll bar or tie to roof, then you wont heat the whole thing up if you don't need to. If you are feeling really posh put a plasticy window in for rear view. Feeling lazy, You can buy for about £60? from exmoor. Pete

The first vid is fairly normal until 2.5NAD's have "warmed up" 10-15mins. The second most definitely isn't you have loads of positive pressure in the valve cover indicating something wrong. I would guess as you say either a head gasket or a ring. get a compression test done. Someone will be along in a bit who knows more than me, but I can say that is not normal for an ex-mil 2.5d having owned one. I would put money on a head gasket though as the engine does not sound as if it is running irregular on two or three cylinders, can't say for sure though as the sound is not great. Pete

or see if you can reconfigure the windings on the secondary rotor? windings if possible to run in series rather than parallel. or increase the primary excitation field voltage read the following for info. v useful if you are into electrickery. http://www.utterpower.com/vreg.htm Pete

machine mart sell the alternator bit, at a hefty price. Note you will want the 1500rpm models though unless you can maintain 3000rpm on the shaft of the alternator with pulley diameter or engine revs. Most of the portable gensets run at 3000rpm though. The southern electric landy's used to have pto generators which ran off transfer box, engaged on lever. This is much safer as you can turn the output off. I'm not sure I would want to run a 240v alternator belt driven off the engine whilst wading, unless you wanted to get a shock and go fishing at the same time. You would need to remove the belt when not required or find a way to stop the alternator rotating. Pete

Thanks Ralph, Yup I've tried the redex diesel treatment, (the restores power one). Although I had run this through after it's MOT, didn't cure the smoke though, I put some in before it's MOT last year and have been told it does bring the readings down slightly as do changing the filters and oil. The MOT guy put my landy on the ramps with the engine running for leak checking etc must have been idling for 5mins. I ran it for 30 mins fairly hard down the bypass and local roads before turning up for the test also. I don't use my landy a great deal or as a daily driver so don't want to spend thousands on it, but I would like to eliminate the initial acceleration smoke if possible. It's not blue smoke like a dead turbo or thick black like over fueling.? there is a sooty deposit around the tailpipe but this I would think is fairly normal? The second or so of smoke is on gear changes when re applying the throttle, or can be seen at night when driving in front of another car with headlights on. I can get it to grey smoke if I really open the throttle up to top revs in 2nd/3rd gear but this happens in most diesels if you dump fuel into them? and not something I like doing often. Watching the smoke test makes me cringe. I was thinking the fuel injection pump had been messed with or my injectors are blocked/carboned. I'm not losing any oil or gaining any and the crankcase pressure seems normal. Pete

I took my 110 defender in for it's yearly MOT and was a little concerned that the smoke reading was borderline. I noticed that the smoke only happened as the accelerator was pressed for 1 second or so. The engine pulls fine and the turbo can be heard quietly whistling on a steady incline when acc is pressed. It was something I had noticed, visible on dark nights in rear view mirror with someone behind the landy with their headlights on. The engine has done around 80000 miles and was a salvage unit about three years ago. To replace a 2.5 NAD It didn't do this when I first installed it. Since then I have maintained with services at 6000 intervals. In fact the oils and filters were done before the mot. Things I have done. I have a paddock mushroom top snorkel which was fitted 2 years ago. Cam belt and idler changed when installed at 69000 miles. checked valve clearances before MOT. cleared valve cover breather and checked pipework. had intercooler and pipes to check for de-laminating and off turbo a small amount oil before turbo and after,but not loads. turbo impeller wheel spins freely, without wobble. The things worrying me are the cover was missing off the fuel injection pump when I had it. I have only adjusted the torx stud a couple of turns to back off the smoke, this made no difference to the blip of smoke though so I put it back to where it was. I have a list of jobs to try but all vary in expense, I have considered, in order. Injection timing, bigger intercooler(easier breathing), injectors change, new turbo, new piston rings, not really sure what else. Any ideas guys? Pete

I overhauled my heating vents and controls on my ex-mil 110 not long after I bought it. I couldn't operate the controls either way and all the blow was on the floor. I stripped the wiper motor cover. headlight controls. instrument cluster. and removed as much trim as possible to allow the box to drop down and out. I was surprised that the box was literally full of army left overs The foreign object were stopping the travel of the internal flap on each side. I found a food knife, and spoon, 3 cartridge cases of 7.62, nuts bolts washers, unopened chewing gum, a padlock, various coins, and lots of sticky dissolved boiled sweets. This happened because the vent pipe which connected to windyscreen had come away and left a huge plughole. While it was out I painted and greased bits and insulated the wiring loom better which runs up from the fusebox. Other thing i noticed is that the aperture to the blower is smaller than it could be, any reason for this? works much better now though. just need to seal the draughts through the doors, especially at 50mph. Pete

32mm viscous fan cranked spanner (draper/sealey) available from most places. difflock.com, ccw-tools etc. don't forget it's a left handed thread (knock it to the right to loosen) spent ages once tightening mine doh!

no, I doubt it. I had to replace my tunnel, seatbox, and bulkhead finisher when I swapped my LT77 out. The old 2.5NA or TD tunnel was a lot thinner and didn't have the bulge at the back just under the handbrake. I am only guessing but the lt77 tunnel will foul on the R380 gearbox. With the right R380 tunnel there is only one or two cm's of clearance in places. Pete

AMR4247R ????? http://www.mailorder4x4.com/acatalog/Defen...lternators.html see this thread first re: mounting lugs. Oh and check if you have defender engine or discovery not sure if there is a difference of alternator mount location. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=11870 Pete

maybe worth starting/moving a new topic on this one, I have to admit I am no expert but from the link http://www.r32oc.com/HALDEX.pdf It looks like it could be simple to basically control, with a small actuator to switch on the pump to fully pressurise/engage the clutch with a switch. not sure of the cost though. Ideas anyone? for input output shaft drive flanges? maybe chop some vw parts about. Powerwise must be ok though if the TT uses it 200+ BHP

maybe, if the abs/traction loss codes could be decyphered, or just build a manual switch/actuator similar to difflock switch, when you know you are going to need the live rear axle and rear differential you can switch it on. just don't get one off another 4x4 system, can't remember if BMW X5 or XC90, these use a wonderful thermometric slip diff which is always 4WD until load is too great at which point it releases and reverts back to 2WD. Just when you need it. sorry for off topic diversion, started with best of fuel saving intentions.

The real fuel saving device on the freelander 2 isn't the start/stop feature, but the haldex clutch similar to one fitted to the skoda octavia 4x4. This improves the mpg as it normally only needs 2WD (front wheels). 42mpg? As soon as the abs sensors/traction control knows drive is poor the haldex clutch closes. This improves mpg and tyre wear. and is nothing like the abomination that was the IRD on the old freelander. Pete

Not sure of parts supplier but I noted a link for these people off the forum, a while ago. http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/ who do taper roller bearings and oil seals, you just need a micrometer or a good description in parts list. Let me know if any luck/how you get on as I will need to do mine at some point. Pete

bling wiper boots? draught excluder strip? redirect heater vents cover for cb antenna spring? anti rattle packing for under seat tools????? Pete

.... and replace them 10-15 times as often it's all relative. I know there are more pressing financial items at uni......such as beer and ........beer. And consider that LED bulbs have reduced in price a lot since their first introduction, the quality is variable as with everything from eastern shores. side note: it must now be second nature for us Brits to question cost against quality and buy everything as cheap as possible. As a result you can see the decline in UK specialist engineering companies and workshops who can do specialist fab work and repairs. Just try and find a decent auto electrician or repair/bodyshop. just my tuppence.

I was convinced mine were steel but after chipping 15 coats of paint off I can see they are ally now. Have you got details (company,part no's) for the felt seals Lars? as my windows rattle on idle like you wouldnt believe. I got some "replacement" seals from my LR spares place but they were too thick (wind up window type?) Pete

The pads sit in the rubber drain channel to stop the water running down the bolts, needless to say it doesn't work. I put a very small dab of black rtv either side of the bolt holes. If you have a moment and decide to do the entire strip with rtv like I did it will not work. When you sandwich the door back together it sqishes all the rtv blocking all the drain holes Best to use a few dabs and let it touch dry before assembly. P.S I covered the bolts in lithium grease/waxoyl as they get older the bolts rust and expand jamming the tube and eventually break off. do you have a part no. for the bolts Jim? P.P.S I think the original door tops are steel not ally. The replacement series ones you can buy are ally. Pete

my sankey 3/4 narrowtrack has about 10 degrees of eye movement. It certainly doesn't spin round. This i assume is correct as the nato hitch on the landrover can be locked solid for on road use. or for off road use the Landy has a hitch retaining plate underneath swung away allowing the jaw to spin through 360 degrees. This plate should be retained with a quick release pin and clip. If your hitch on landy is solid you might want to use the grease gun and crowbar to get it moving. P.S dont forget to make trailer legal with a breakway chain. Pete

Bit of a shot in the dark this one, until someone who knows comes along Have you tried taking the battery off for 30 mins or so to let the ecu reset. From what you say the ecu has taken default values when you didn't reconnect the sensor wire and has probably gone to limp home mode. Now you have put the wire back it may be worth trying a battery off for a bit. Be careful with the immobiliser though i.e make sure the landy is unlocked(not immobilised) before removing battery lead. Pete

s'pose so. Tracker seem to think they can pick up the signal if it is hidden like this. I have my doubts though, if the police unit trying to find it is any distance away. The garage or container would act like a large faraday cage. I remember watching cops, cameras, and yobs or similar. where they found a mini digger in a lorry park, inside a lorry. but the lorry had a clear plasticy roof thingy. And another 4x4 in a lock up where it was mainly metal clad but had wooden sections. The only hope is then you would notice it had gone and report it asap. before it could be squirrelled away/broken/set fire to. Pete

How so? If it can't be fitted due to lack of hiding places fair enough, but if you can fit it to basic plant equipment I would say this has already been well thought out. A GSM/pocsag tracker does not need a view of the sky like gps systems as it sleeps until given a wakeup code at which point a radio beacon signal is switched on which lets the police direction find it. So remains active with a backup battery even if vehicle is dead electrically. Has anyone ever seen a tracker unit it could look like any various automotive item (wiper motor, relay, box, door lock, fluffy dice ) Besides if you shop around the various manufacturers, Tracker, Securicor, etc they promote schemes through various big insurers to reduce your theft excess to £0. So not a waste of money either IMHO. Some offer to pay you £1000 on top of your insurance payout if the vehicle is not seen again. So if a HIAB truck has been used and your vehicle is found in the yard with it then a lot more than just your vehicle will be recovered/seized. Pete

quick release, removable hub steering wheel. makes carrying round the shops on your keyring a chore though if all else fails get a decent gps/gsm tracker fitted, it wont stop your landy getting nicked but the police like playing hide and seek, and have good recovery rates. Will probably save a bob or two on insurance. Pete

yup, the slider does nothing electrical till it is near the bottom of the slide, then the first click (speed1, very slow) then speed 2, slow. Like a film I saw where the donkey was a deluxe 3 speed slow, very slow and stop. The mechanical slider opens the air flap for manual intake of air into heater, unitl the fan works at the bottom. (optimistic idea at best). Temperature control works by bypassing the heater matrix or not IIRC. Pete