minivin

I've got a pair of Defender top wing mounts, freshly satin black powder coated, retention latches in both in one piece (plastic so do break), looking for £30 Amesbury, Wiltshire

MoD piccy:

I suspect with how people get their trucks so stuck that they need recovering, it would be interesting for a load cell to be fitted on the line to see what "dynamic loads" are being generated in the recovery process....... suspect your find that the "peak loads" are way beyond that which most recovery points are designed for as no one seems to bother touching a spade these days to prepare the recovery. If you have to get the vehicle over the mound of mud you've created by digging yourself in, then the loading to pull the vehicle "up-and-over" is going to be immense due to it not being in the direction of the pull, but in all three possible axis. JATE rings were never designed for people who don't prep a recovery, the army recovery manual has pages upon pages of recovery processes and proceedures, not just "throw a rope on and floor it".

could you post a piccie of the insides? always difficult to say yay or nay on rework without looking at it.

following along those lines

looks military-based to me as it looks the same as whats under my 109 FFR, worth visiting a ex-MIL sales person and crawling under a vehicle and un bolting one, fabricating the brackets and saving a few pennies

commonest saying in our office at the moment is "F F S", or more commonly known as "For Fu€k Sake" or from my boss "They don't pay you enough to have a coronary"

not sure on the benefits of bolts through to a spreader plate or welding without talking to a stress engineer at work, but all I can think at the moment is that you will still have the issue of a 5mm bumper trying to disperse the load. I take it you are making a rather wide and tall spreader plate to spread the load out further than what the original recovery point you are fitting will do if welded?

ummmm..... I may have posed a question

Bustard Point is in the back of no-where when it comes to mobiles, maybe worth shouting the night before

ah it's one of those tools that's handy to keep in the tool kit so I'm going to lob an order off anyway, but cheers anyway

come to think of it, the engine has been stood for some time and the thermostat housing wasn't covered when I got it so maybe it's gunged up, shall buy a new one me tinks just to be sure, need a prop shaft tool anyway

angle grinder with sanding disc fitment, worked for me

oh good thats alright then. Shouldn't have over heated it, got it upto a point where putting your hand on the engine was uncomfortable. Still got a full rad of water which would have slowly seeped out over the past two months since I last fired it up.

Ooh me ol' drinking bar, may pop up on the BMW and see what people are taking out

Just wondering, after firing the ol' girl up last night to test the charging circuit on my newly fitted alternator and fan belt (bloody odd size, got three extras of differing sizes now as spares as I couldn't quite get the right one), as a side benefit I could check the water pump and circuit being good and sealed. Previously with no water pump, 5 minutes running has seen the engine get reasonably hot such that you wouldn't want to take your pinkies near it for too long a time. But with the water pump now working and happily sat there ticking over for something like over 5 minutes (had to check all the lights were working) there was only the incy wincy hint of heat from the engine, I could even touch the block no problems!. Is it just a factor of a 2.5NAD at this time of year that it takes blooming ages for it to get any heat into it or am I missing something out here if it's normal then time for a radiator muff

BLRS do a 6 cyl. kit: BLRS page

I had this when I first filled my new system and bled it, after the first few "pump and shut it off" attempts, we resorted to slightly cracking it off at the nipple, pumping it ten times and then locking it off. What we found was there was a couple places in the system where air locks happily formed and by pumping it ten times you moved the fluid and air enough to move it to the next point of contention, and after a few cycles you got it all out of the system.

may of come from some airfield with stocks of imperial stuff <cough>

well I couldn't be fussed to type 6.35mm compared to a 1/4 No probs!

oh yeah, as my friend dug the alloy out, it was 1/4" Duraluminium, if he'd of had mild steel I would have done it with 3/16

only problem if I did that is that I would no longer have a lower pivot mount for the back as it would be 120 degrees anti clockwise in the wrong place as viewed from the front. Have started to check the Lucas part numbers for other V8 lumps et cetera which may be more easier to convert in future found a nice company in the UK who's website when you do a search on Lucas or Bosch part numbers tells you which vehicles have them and what the other manufacturers or OEM part numbers are. Also tells you current et cetera!

unfortunately as said above, these one's are four bolts so when you try to turn it the required 120 degrees, you can only turn it 90 or 180 degrees and the lugs go all pi$$ed

you got me confused on the first one as the tensioner point is in mid air due to the lack of a bracket on the alt, rotating the C ring 120 would move the lower "pivot mount" of the C ring to being in the same place as the "loose point" is at the moment if you mean the main case of the alternator, Bosch decided to have four bolts instead of the usual three bolts so it can only be rotated 90 degrees yeah, couldn't be ar$ed to remove the bracket

just a thought, is being told before or after xmas better....... If LR had left it to the new year to tell them, then people who were planning to clear their xmas credit card bashing in the new year would be stuffed. Just a thought