rusty_wingnut

according to the manual they need to be fitted with a minor angle. I fitted mine with this angle.

they must vary in quality, mine have been spot on. I don't dump the clutch (often) and tend to not use the right boot too hard. But having said that I have towed 3ton on more than one occasion and have got big tyres for offroad. There was a guy on here who had a pair fitted to his Comp Safari racer....

Dewalt was always a pile of, I used to work selling tools and nearly every single tool we had on return was Dewalt. Makita everytime.

flaps open, windows open, back door split in half - better than aircon.

looks very similar to a Tmax, replacment motors are available from Mail Order4x4

thanks, one last question I don't have a trialer warning light, should I send this to ground?

according to that I have a switch to the reversing lamp?

I am putting a flasher relay into my Series. I have a flasher unit from a disco 1 (Hella Tbb45) with associated plug and a bit of the disco's harness. I can't work out which colour wires go to where, I have the following wire colours: Purple with brown stripe Green with purple stripe Black Green with Brown stripe Green with Pink (or peach?!)Stripe Does anybody know which wires go where? Thanks

I've done over 12k miles on my 1996 def with the setup as per the manual XEng provide (can't remember the config) and it's been fine.

I quite agree mate, the unit I have is the standard TGV vain controller, it is very stiff and doesn't move until roughly 0.5barand reaches full extension by maybe 1 bar. I am going to knock up a new unit capable of being adjusted (with different springs) and see if I can get more out of it.

I think I need to fab up a fancy adjustable type thing like the one you have mate!

you're better off knowing what is going on inside the manifold.... the turbo can boost away happily but how will you know exactly what is going into the engine? IMO it's better to remake the plug on the back of the inlet manifold.

Should of gone but I didn't need any tat and couldn't justify a day not working on zee Series 1. My mate was breaking a 110 hi cap

I mean the small period when you get shed loads of boost before it settles to it's steady state.

I have recently had some problems with my VGT, to try and get more boost I tensioned the diaphragm up more, and as a result I have a greater overpressure but the boost remains around 1bar. Is it worth me either opening or closing this stop screw to achieve a little bit more?

Their CV joints have taken a hell of beating underneath my motor, 30k later and they are as good as when fitted

some friends of mine have just been to a rally in the Czech Republic and back in, a 2.25D 88", 2.25P 109" No spares needed. One motor had not done more than 10mile trips in recent history.... I'd take: -wheel bearings -lift pump -cam belt and pushrods -head gasket -prop shaft UJs

I have a mud dash that has been brilliant, first mod I made to the LR.

I fabricated a balance bar from a short legnth of scaffold tube and a LR series U bolt. Once the engine is on the balance it is easy to man handle the unit back onto the gearbox.

If you want somebody to weld it I will help out!

I undid the nut a couple of turns, wedged a crowbar between axle and A frame, gave it a gently levering and it popped off, I was shcoked

aren't the shocks on upside down?

I still have a defender engine dipstick and tube if anyone wants a cheap one?

buy my 90...

I still use BOC, spot as I can collect from South Wimbledon or Crawley easily. Always a good service and the abrasives are good value.