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Hello, A friend has a freelander, about 2000 i think. It's a td4 (i think!). Well, it's the type that you can blead the clutch on and it's a diesel so from that i'm assuming a td4. Mileage is about 100k. The bite point on the clutch is a couple inches off the floor. It still works fine. No air in system. Having searched google i've seen replies about changing the master, slave and / or complete clutch. Can anyone shed any light on what normally causes this ? We don't want to adivse one thing and it turn out to be something else and end up spending unnecessary money. Am i correct in saying the td4 has a dual mass ? More expense i guess ? Thanks G

Will you two be sharing a tent

My plan seems to have a problem. The senders that i've got aren't just a simple make / break switch. Both in and out of fuel they are about 1.4k ohm. Need to sit down and have a fiddle with them and a meter. G

Agree with the above. My inlet comes from somewhere out of the way. This is one of the reasons i think my 12v one packed up, the intake was pretty dirty. On the next one i'm going to put end caps on which then have a supply pipe from somewhere clean. I've got 5 air rams which all have pressure on them regardless of position as well as both diff locks. Was going to pump up a 37" tyre today but forgot G

there's something special about driving about in an old series that you're changing all the different gear sticks (gear, red, yellow, overdrive) whilst carrying on with a totally unrelated conversation to the passenger. G

For approximately 300 - 500 miles a month you'll do just go for the V8. Not sure which will work out more, but the difference won't be a lot. However you'll prefer driving the V8. I've done about 40 - 50k in my 4.6v8 on lpg and no real complaints. G

Had it running yesterday. A whole lot quicker than the ARB pump and pretty quiet to. The back of the pump does get warm but it didn't feel that warm at the tank. There's a 4 metre hose in between. The cones / JIC sealed ok No oiler yet. Starting against pressure wasn't a problem. But there is a check valve at the tank, so chances are that some of the pressure leaked back through the compressor after it last shut down ? I cracked the hose at one point and didn't seem to have any pressure hence thinking it's blead off. It doesn't seem to affect the engines power, but i've only run it in the workshop. G

My car is ready .... anyone wanna hire it Although it's still got half of Griffin forest under it....

How come you've got rods ? What's playing up on your 4.6 now ? I'll get it running by letting you turn up in your 110 and leaving in my P38 Stopping in after work tomorrow LOL ? G

Made a start on this today. My first problem was that i'd changed the belts on my v8. Normally the main belt goes up to the water pump with the air con belt coming behind that... In my case the air con belt has to be in front, so i've spaced the bracket off the engine. My next problem was my oil filter was in the way, which meant making / moving hoses. The fittings on the RRC air con hoses are UNF. The suction being bigger than the discharge so i've got another discharge meaning i have two of the smaller fittings. JIC hydraulic fittings are UNF, so i've got 2 hoses made up and used a small 'cone adaptor' (the type that you use for a Jap bsp to UK bsp). *Should seal ok* It's 3/8 single wire hose. Neither the water trap nor the oiler have arrived. Tommorrow I'll cut the suction hose about 12" down and crimp on 1/4" BSP fittings for the oiler. The water trap will go on the other end of the hose which is behind the bulkhead. For the time being i'm going to try without a cooler. I did contemplate taking the suction from the oil catch tank. But one of the reasons this wouldn't be possible is i run a check valve in the top of it so that when i roll I don't suck oil into the engine. There will be a check valve and relief valve on the pipework at the tank as well as the pressure switch (the ARB one). This switch i'll use to control both compressors - the air con and 12v. With seperate on/off switches for each. G

I decided to get hold of P+P today. Their answer was cifA32’s. G

Morning, So, this weekend my co-driver got a stick in his eye whilst out on a challenge and it made me realise that we don't actually carry the right stuff / enough ! Can anyone on here recommend me a first aid kit that i could keep in the car in case of emergencies. (Not on the challenge truck, in the everyday vehicle.) I've done first aid courses for work etc and the one thing they stress is there's no point in having a kit full of random stuff you're never going to use but rather with useful things - i.e. lots of bandages but no airway management stuff. G

Wow.... I've just got 3 drawers full of 3 different size ranges. What a pain in the butt to find something

Morning, My brother has bought a T45 for his rally car but we're stilling a little confused over which rods to use. Could anyone on here clarify which type we should be using ? Er70 ? Had he bought it from someone like P+P i'd call them up and have a chat, but unfortunately he didn't Cheers Gordon

In answer to your question, you are correct. Drop the oil out the drain plug and refill through the dipstick. About 5 litres maybe a touch more. G

I like the above 2 ideas, simpler than mine. Fair point about not being able to see the LED. Hmmmm...... (Edit : could a mod, correct my spelling mistake in the title of Blinking).

Right, i'll take a guess. http://www.555timercircuits.org/ There are a few circuits i've found like this. Would i be able to remove the potentiometer and use my level switch in place. In the low position the first circuit would be closed, so if i had a resistor in series (value to be calculated) it would blink. Then when the second switch closed (i.e. both closed), it would also have a resistor in series. Now there are 2 resistors in parrallel....Changing the overall resistance and changing the rate at which the LED blinks - i'd be able to adjust accordingly till it was too fast for the eye to see a blink and rather looks solid. (or maybe it'll be solid first then blink when low not sure if a decrease in resistance would speed it up or slow it down ?) G

Morning, This is the job : I don't have a fuel gauge in my aluminium tank. So it's a bit of a guessing game about how much fuel there is left. We've run out in the far corner of Walters Arena before and this weekend we were pretty low on the Scotia Challenge - again a massive site ! I've found a sender unit from a bike that has 2 float switches in it. 3 wires. So I'm assuming 1 is common and the other two wires are NO if there is fuel present. NC when the level drops below. Object : I wish to have 1 led on the dash. That when the fuel gets to low it flashes. Then when it gets to very low it stays on solid. What's the simplest way ? I've tried searching google but once they all start talking about 555, transistors, resistors, nun sisters , capacitors etc I get a bit lost ! Si ? Gordon

Something like this in the inlet : ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SV343-Air-Line-Mini-In-line-Oiler-1-4-HEAVY-DUTY-NEW-/260825367918?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cba67456e And this on the discharge ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-BSP-Mini-Line-Air-Filter-Moisture-Water-Trap-Spray-Guns-Air-Tools-/320881732886?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item4ab60aad16 G

It was sparking, we checked that. The fuel pump was also priming which i'm assuming is controlled from the ecu like normal. G

We run this in our boggers. Not sure how well it works, but haven't had any punctures yet .... It didn't seal the tyre when we bent the rim bead out of place though. It is easy enough to clean out with the tyre stripped off just a bit messy. Not sure what a tyre company would say though, i probably wouldn't like a customer bringing one in and expecting me to clean it RE: Vulcanising - we've got a truck place around here that does it. Had a couple tyres which have had slices (in sidewalls) in repaired successfully. These tyres are then run at pretty low pressure and flexed a lot. G

Thanks for the advice. I might just try it without then. I honestly have no real space under the bonnet due to loads of other little bits n bobs. What i'll do is just get a 1/4" hydraulic hose for with a swaged end that goes to the tank - should be ok with the heat - and shouldn't blow the end off as mentioned above. Cheers Gordon

What have I done? Upgraded !

Ok..so story goes. We went up to do the scotia challenge (300 miles each way @ not very good mpg!) and my little t-max 12v compressor freaked out. Thankfully we eventually managed to borrow an ARB item to get us through the day. So....time to fit an air con compressor. I've seen the other threads about what to do etc.... BUT people don't really talk about coolers. Are they required or not ? I intend to get another 12v compressor and also plumb that in to keep as reserve. Cheers Gordon

for you Chris. It was a long way to go. James even mentioned to me on Thursday to ring you to ask about taking the spare ecu, hindsight huh I'm currently running on my spare - Nige has my main. It's too late now, but i had my laptop with me. G